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1 year ago my steering rack started clanking bad, likely worn out rack causing a lot of pinion to slide rack play. I replaced it, did the alignment, all was good. Steering started to get heavier.
when the engine is cold, it’s nice and light, as the motor warms up (even if I just let it warm up from idling) steering wheel is harder to turn. I put the correct fluid into the system, bled it correctly to my knowledge, but now the fluid has turned grey.
the p/s pump has no whine to it. I don’t honestly remember if it was doing this before I replaced the rack. It’s totally possible steering felt this way and I doubt the rack had failed.
anyone have any ideas? Tie rod ends are new, knuckle moves freely on ball joint, etc
If there is no leaks then more than likely you have a bad pump. Why didn't you change it together when you replace the rack and pinion. The pump is dirt cheap, even upgrading to the braided line kit doesn't cost a lot.
If there is no leaks then more than likely you have a bad pump. Why didn't you change it together when you replace the rack and pinion. The pump is dirt cheap, even upgrading to the braided line kit doesn't cost a lot.
yes that was bad on my part. Fluid looked to be in good condition and pump wasn’t whining and still isn’t. This system doesn’t even have a pressure switch and is very simple so it’s either a rack or a pump and I doubt it’s the rack. Only other thing I could think of is the intermediate steering shaft support bearing which wouldn’t really be caused by heat or driving (increased difficulty upon warm engine)
Guess I’ll change this pump, flush the lines as well as possible and see if it solves the issue. Old fluid wasn’t grey though I know that for sure.
I don't have any diagram for 2011, my alldata software only up to 08, but my 08 doesn't show any helpful info on your car, so below is from 2007, same generation as 2011 for your reference. When your fluid turned grey that's already a sign that some broken metal component internally.
I don't have any diagram for 2011, my alldata software only up to 08, but my 08 doesn't show any helpful info on your car, so below is from 2007, same generation as 2011 for your reference. When your fluid turned grey that's already a sign that some broken metal component internally.
Thanks for the info man! I really doubt this pump is creating proper pressure at all. Steering shouldn’t start out nice and smooth and get harder unless there’s either airlock in the lines (woulda been worked out by now) or a failing pump which would explain the metal. I’m gonna get a pump and install it and flush the hell out of this system with new fluid including the rack. I’ll keep you guys updated, thanks for the help and info!
only thing that sucks is this doesn’t have a power steering fluid pressure sensor so I can’t monitor the pid without a mechanical gauge, which would mean taking off the pressure line and the which means pump will over pressurize and blow internally. Ford kinda didn’t think that through lol. I’m guessing the pid in there is based off vehicle speed and steering wheel position sensor
Last edited by Ryan Richards; Jan 27, 2025 at 10:19 PM.
If there is no leaks then more than likely you have a bad pump. Why didn't you change it together when you replace the rack and pinion. The pump is dirt cheap, even upgrading to the braided line kit doesn't cost a lot.
Checked and verified no leaks. Small amount of seepage around the water pump I believe but I don’t think the ps pump is seeping fluid. I’ll replace the pump. Keep you updated on the fix!
If you don't bleed the air out of the system, it will aerate the fluid making it a lighter color.
After replacing the rack assy, how did you bleed the air out ?
If you don't bleed the air out of the system, it will aerate the fluid making it a lighter color.
After replacing the rack assy, how did you bleed the air out ?
Yes, Did multiple side to side movements to full lock with car off, started and did it again. The actual bleed procedure in alldata requires pulling a vacuum on the system and I don’t currently have the vacuum kit to do so.
any recommendations on checking for airlock/bleeding this without the vacuum kit?
linked pic is new fluid vs the fluid that is currently in there.
Last edited by Ryan Richards; Jan 28, 2025 at 05:58 PM.
The wheels should be off the ground when you did the purging.
Consider taking it to someone that can bleed that air out..
The air in the fluid in the reservoir will eventually rise to the top when parked overnight and maybe eventually it will all go out. In the meantime limited power assist.
You can suck some of the aerated fluid out with something like a turkey baster each time after running it and replace it with clean nonaerated POWER STEERING FLUID
which is not red !
The wheels should be off the ground when you did the purging.
Consider taking it to someone that can bleed that air out..
The air in the fluid in the reservoir will eventually rise to the top when parked overnight and maybe eventually it will all go out. In the meantime limited power assist.
You can suck some of the aerated fluid out with something like a turkey baster each time after running it and replace it with clean nonaerated POWER STEERING FLUID
which is not red !
Was done with the wheels off the ground, these cars call for Mercon V ATF in the manual and on alldata for power steering fluid, it is supposed to be red. Bleeding was done with the engine off first, then with the pump running lock to lock several times then driven. I doubt it’s airlock but I will try another bleed after I replace the pump. Airlock would be consistent, shouldn’t ever cause only hot issues especially only related to engine heat.
i will say it again but if I let the engine idle and get up to temp, it’s hard to turn. If I turn the engine on an leave immediately (cold ps fluid) it’s nice and light.