1978 Ford 460 RV wont start
Abandoned,, ?
Many times on tech sites and forums you may fall through the cracks,, happens,, or, members get busy and aren't online, work, vacations, illness and the like contribute too. Rather than feel stranded (possibly literally) or feel abandoned, you should have no worry about messaging a member or two here, update a posting, or 'repost' to bring your help request to the 'top' and/ or more visiblility for your needs so we can take another look and re evaluate.
Coil failures on the old style type ignitions aren't really all that common, but glad it was a simple fix.
Being on the first post,,, you had a 'no start condition'. One of the first things to check would/should have been for a healthy spark, nice blue hot ark, not a whitish weak or missing spark. Remembering,, 3 things are needed in general for combustion,, fuel, spark, compression. All at the right time and volume. If any of those don't make it to the party, it's not gonna run..
With hanky, sorry for the drop out, and we value all who come here, and those that contribute.
Many times on tech sites and forums you may fall through the cracks,, happens,, or, members get busy and aren't online, work, vacations, illness and the like contribute too. Rather than feel stranded (possibly literally) or feel abandoned, you should have no worry about messaging a member or two here, update a posting, or 'repost' to bring your help request to the 'top' and/ or more visiblility for your needs so we can take another look and re evaluate.
Coil failures on the old style type ignitions aren't really all that common, but glad it was a simple fix.
Being on the first post,,, you had a 'no start condition'. One of the first things to check would/should have been for a healthy spark, nice blue hot ark, not a whitish weak or missing spark. Remembering,, 3 things are needed in general for combustion,, fuel, spark, compression. All at the right time and volume. If any of those don't make it to the party, it's not gonna run..
With hanky, sorry for the drop out, and we value all who come here, and those that contribute.
not that big of an issue guys i appreciate any input givin. Just wanted answers. hard to diagnose on ur end anyway. but it was the coil. I replaced this as well as the starter which wasnt in good condition. after replacing the starter and manualing running the fuel lines to gas can (disconnected from the pump)(there was both a manual pump from the carb as well as an electric pump towards the back) i replaced the solenoid and still nothing so I knew it was lacking spark. Old piece was confusing as most parts were so old and i also replaced a fried looking fusible link that connects from one battery to the other on the RV. works good now. runs strong. still had to poor fuel in the carb tho. its loud and bolt was broken on exhaust manifold so took it off breaking 2 studs off and now i was able to get 1 out but the other is impossible i used a blow torch and gave it all i got with pipe wrench. little motion but inched then stuck completely. i think the best solution is to weld a nut on from what ive seen online but i dont have a welder. been askin around. cant fit anything in this spot frame in the way every way. cant drill anything.
Pics are always good so we can see.
Too much heat can cause the metals to gall and fuse trying to back them out. Heat, cool and lube, more so if it turns a tad. Even if the broken studs have become carbonized/hard, generally a good cobalt set of bits, step drilling small to larger will get through the remaining stud. We used to use X-tractaloy welding rods to remove grade 8 cat bolts, broken taps etc, worked great. Even a fine tip cutting torch focused on the stud face in a series of blows so not to over temp the cast. Crude, but effective if the stud doesn't have a deep shank..
Too much heat can cause the metals to gall and fuse trying to back them out. Heat, cool and lube, more so if it turns a tad. Even if the broken studs have become carbonized/hard, generally a good cobalt set of bits, step drilling small to larger will get through the remaining stud. We used to use X-tractaloy welding rods to remove grade 8 cat bolts, broken taps etc, worked great. Even a fine tip cutting torch focused on the stud face in a series of blows so not to over temp the cast. Crude, but effective if the stud doesn't have a deep shank..
There is a product by CRC called FREEZE OFF. Found it worked pretty good in situations like the one confronting you. If you can, try to get a can and give it a try. It cools the area so penetrant can get inside the threads, worth a try . Auto supply stores should carry it.
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