I'm a novice mechanic. I have a 1996 Ford Explorer with about 176,000 miles. The back lights to the dashboard don't work nor does the second cigarette lighter (upper port). I pulled the dash and replaced all the bulbs and checked all the fuses. I replaced one that was blown. Lights still don't work. Can someone help me? Thanks.

 

Welcome to the site..

Make sure the dash/cluster Dimmer Control Module is working and hasn't been rolled to Off position,

If all the fuses have been double checked and to prove out the relays,,
As a test point,,, At the 'back' of the Dimmer Control Module connector, check for 12v 'IN' to the module from interior Fuse panel.. Back probing the connector, there shoukd be 12v on the Tan/orange wire (input) and 12v (output) to the panel illuminations on the Red/black wire. Yes/No?


The Power Point fuse is in the Power Distribution Box. Fuse #20-30 Amp.

 

I checked The voltages. I got 11.8 V on the tan/orange wire and nothing on the black/red wire. I checked the power distribution box but there is no position number 20 fuse. The numbers go up to 14. I checked my owners manual for a PowerPoint fuse position but there is nothing marked as being PowerPoint. There is a heated back light that takes a 30 amp fuse and it seems to be fine. Also, I'm not sure how to prove out the relays.

 

The Power Point is called Auxiliary Power at times.
Here's an image of the Power Distribution Box, my cursor is over #20-30amp..

On the Dimmer Module for panel lighting..

If the #7-7.5 amp Fuse in the 'Interior' Fuse Panel is HOT when turning the headlights ON/PARK ( this is the power you see on the Tan/Orange wire at the Module connector) would indicate the relay is functional and active otherwise voltage on that wire/fuse would be missing.

As a test,, at the back of the Dimmer Module connector, 'bridge' the Tan/Orange to the Red/Black with a test wire. Or you can separate the connector and do the bridge on its face.

If there's no voltage on the R/BK (now) and once bridged with a test wire, the R/BK circuit is then active, the panel lighting should come on. The power distribution will now be direct from the Modules input out to the panel lights,, meaning no other fuses etc between your bridge (Tan/Orange-Red/Black) and out to the panel bulbs..

 

Thank you for the advice and help.
I'll check tonight when I get home from work.

Am I correct in assuming if I bridge the two wire and the lights come on I cannot just leave the bridge connected because the lights won't turn off and therefore drain the battery?
I thought you might tell me that the entire dimmer switch module is out since one wire had no voltage so I went to the junkyard and got another one.

Another issue is the second cigarette lighter. How would I go about testing it? I bought the truck used and it does not have a cigarette lighter in it. I would like to fix it as an auxiliary charging system for cell phones etc.

Also, I don't know if you're knowledgeable about radios. I was driving and the sound stopped coming out of the speakers. I took the truck to a radio repair place who tested the radio itself and the speakers. They charge me $100 for an hour labor and told me it must be the amp. However, their cheapest amp was $270. I've gone to the junkyard and found three other amps and swapped each one in and there is still no sound which leads me to believe that is NOT the amp. Any ideas?

 

You could leave the bridge/splice in, the headlight switch would still control ON/OFF function, but with the bridge installed you won't have a panel dimming option any longer, full bright. Best to solder and wrap the splice in front on the connector/ harness if done..

So,, you installed the salvage yard Dimmer unit and still no panel lights? Either way, do the bridge test and see if the panel illuminates.

On the Cig socket as an Aux..
The cig is only protected with a 15amp fuse (interior fuse panel #17-15amp) and the Aux is protected to 30 as we covered earlier. The cig could be used as another Aux socket as long as it's not overloaded with a device/s. Both sockets are 'Hot at all times'....

To test either socket as active, make sure the fuse/s are good,, use a 12v continuity light or a test meter and - ground to a good location. Use the red positive lead (meter) or the steel probe end (continuity light) and 'carefully' contact the + center button within the socket at the very bottom. If it's shorts against the sides of the socket it may blow the fuse..

With the Radio/Audio unit,, First, would be to check the radio fuses S/B Interior Fuse Panel #20-7.5amp and #29-10amp..
Then the radio output could/should have been checked at the Amp connector, for pre Amp. The Amp is overload Protected as well 'Power Distribution Box' #22-30amp. Make sure they checked the Amp fuse

 

Does anyone know if a ABS sensor from a 2000 explorer will fit on a 1996 explorer?