Hello, just recently joined this forum and I have appreciated all the tips and info. I am over 60 years old, on social security because of a disability and I am exploring all my options because of my very low income, although I do have ways to get a loan which I am desperately trying to avoid.

I have a 2003 Ranger Edge 6 Cylinder 3.0 Engine with 180,000 miles In July my truck overheated and after quickly pulling over I noticed water coming from top of radiator. My 82 year old farmer friend (whom I bought the truck from in 2019) fixed it for me. He installed a new Radiator. All seemed well for a month then I noticed it overheating again so I pulled over and noticed the radiator sprung another leak. Mr. Farmer mechanic installed another radiator, and my water pump, my thermostat, timing chain, gasket behind timing chain cover, cleaned the mass air flow with proper cleaner, the relays or switches below the thermostat that screw in (forgot the names), and replaced the Idle air control valve. Truck was idling bad so I changed the Idle air control again to another Standard one even though I read that I needed a Ford dealer part of Motorcraft the part store did not have) It was starting rough and not idling well so I was about to order a MotorCraft IAC when I noticed the temp gauge going hot after just driving a few miles so I quickly came home.
Now upon starting I noticed a flow or steady, small stream of water coming from mid-section of exhaust pipe. Turned it off and checked the oil. The oil on the dip stick is not milky, however, this morning I checked the radiator to see how much water was lost and then added half a gallon. It is now making a loud clicking and water coming out of exhaust.
My truck has four new tires, body is in good condition, inside is nice, and I have all the new parts I mentioned above installed. I called a real machinic and told him what I told you guys and he said, "Cracked block--you need a new engine and I will do it all for $4000--ballpark price."
I can't afford that. So my question is what do you guys think? Could this be a blown head gasket or for sure a cracked block and the best advise is to find another engine? Could this engine be rebuilt? Replace head gasket? Or, if I look for a new vehicle can I possible recoup some of my money from new radiator, water pump, tires, etc., or is my 2003 Ranger which I paid $3300 a complete loss? Please advise me of my options.
Thank you, Kelly (I am a male )

 

Hi Kelly,
These are are some of the steps you might consider,

To assume it is a cracked block is a possibility , BUT not until pressure tests are performed to see just where the coolant is getting out.

Unfortunately, replacing the radiator every time without checking for the reason it blew, was a little faulty.

It can be determined if the block is cracked or a head gasket let go with just a cooling system pressure test.

Under the present circumstances you might consider having an experienced shop check it thoroughly. Either way,it will involve some expense, the idea is to get some idea which is the best step to take.

 

Hanky, now that makes sense! I am far from a mechanic but I do have some logical reasoning and you mentioning what you did about the radiator makes so much sense. I was depending on a group of farmers and well they tried. I will do exactly as you suggested.
Thank you!

 

There is a little more to this, and that is ,

When cooling system pressure gets to a certain point, which is shown on the radiator cap, pressure within the system is supposed to be relieved where coolant goes to the recovery bottle. If the radiator cap is not relieving that pressure, it can build up and something has to give and it can be a weak hose, the radiator or just the weakest point in the system. A coolant system pressure testing kit can verify if the radiator cap is working correctly and also pressurize the system to help locate a leak.
A good shop should be able to help pin down the problem which could take some time.
A good point to keep in mind is to check the radiator coolant level , WHEN COLD, to see if it is going down to where addl coolant needs to be added.
If the radiator cap is not working correctly, it will not allow coolant from the recovery bottle to go back into the system as it cools down.

 

Hanky, you know looking back I kept telling the farmer/shade tree mechanic that the radiator cap he bought was not the one I had to begin with. The cap he put on the new radiator was a generic one with no pressure release red “handle” looking tab like the one that was originally on it. I kept feeling “the radiator cap is wrong”. So I went to the parts store myself and purchased the correct one.
However, it still was getting hot yet my new cap was releasing pressure every time I looked. That red tab was flipped up.

So now, after thinking it was fixed I would test drive my truck and on a 40 mile round trip it started to get hot again! I made it home and checked and put more water in the radiator and added about 6 cups. So it lost 6 cups of water/antifreeze in 40 miles.

Next, after starting it three days ago that’s when the knocking in the engine was loud and water/antifreeze was pouring out the mid-section of exhaust! The dip stick shows oil level nearly an inch higher! But it’s not milky?

I don’t know if I can drive it two blocks to an expensive shop or should I tow it?
G
Thank you so very much! I am genuinely appreciative!
—Kelly

 

As I see it, the damage is already done and as long as the system is full, you should be able to drive it the 2 blocks.

 

Thanks again. Taking it in the morning. Just saw your reply and I will update here what is found.
thanks again! To be continued 😊
kelly

 

Update please help---hello, I am back with new details and new problem: I have a Ford Ranger 2003 6 cylinder 3.0 engine with 182,000 miles---Okay, just to get you caught up my Ranger was running hot and the radiator first sprung a leak so I replaced the radiator. Shortly thereafter the new radiator sprung another leak so I replaced it too. Then it looked like water was leaking from the water pump so I replaced it. It was still leaking but the leak was behind the water pump from the timing cover gasket so I replaced it and I also replaced the timing chain. Next, after only driving short distances it starting make a tick, tick, tick noise and water was pouring out the center of the exhaust. Water was also coming out of the spark plugs so we all assumed it was the heads. I brought my truck to a shop and told them to fix it. They came back and informed me that both heads were cracked and to do the job it would coast $2196. They replaced the heads and then the mechanic called me and said, "your alternator is bad" I said, "fix it". So, on Friday I paid the shop $2486 and got my truck back. On my first drive, thirty miles later and going approximately 30 mph I heard a loud noise and I actually felt the truck shake this was followed by a reduction in power and a loud click, click, click, click, clicking sound. I called the shop and they sent a wrecker to bring it back to their shop...

Now, that was this past Friday 1/13/2023 and all they had time to do was listen to it. The owner told me that he would open it up this week but that it sounded like a lifter or valve and that it may cost me more money. Question; after paying $2486 to have my truck repaired should the shop repair it without new charges? Should the shop pay for the tow? Who should be responsible----should the shop cover fixing the problem now and return to me a truck that will run more than thirty miles?

My other question is does anyone have any suggestions as to what may be the problem now? I am hoping to arm myself with how to respond to any new charges as I am not a mechanic...
Thanks! Kelly H.

 

This is in my opinion a little touchy situation.
If they replaced the heads, they most likely did not know there might be a bad valve lifter.It should have shown up if they ran it a while.before giving the vehicle back to you.

We are speculating at this point because we don't know what they are finding.
Is there some info you might be forgetting to mention like the engine having overheated? Heads just don't crack by themselves,there has to be a reason.
If it never overheated , they might have played it safe and just installed rebuilt heads which if that was the case there may be more to this then we know.
It is not fair to assume they did an incomplete job although this is a possibility. If they had no way of knowing there was an addl problem, you might have to eat the bill.
Don't hesitate to ask for a thorough description of what they feel caused all this..
If you can keep the situation calm and reasonable is always hopeful.

Please keep us informed so we might be better able to offer any useful suggestions .

 

Thank you again Hanky! Yes it did get hot twice or should I say as soon as it got hot both times I pulled over and allowed it to cool and added water. Both times this happened I noticed smoke or vapor coming from under the hood, looked down and saw the needle right before it being past Hot to right under Hot and both times I am not sure how long it was like that before I actually noticed it and pulled over. I do know that not accusing them and being calm is a good thing and I am very new to this sort of thing actually happening to me and I was not sure what to expect. He did test drive it before he gave it back but I don't think he went very far but not sure.
I do understand what you are saying as I was just expecting for it to be "fixed" and of course last a little longer than a few miles.

I will post on here the results of my "case".
Thanks again!