I guess as a last resort maybe you could check one more thing.
Get the engine on to the timing mark TDC for # 1 piston. It's a dog to remove the plug (front most plug on the passenger side of the engine), but I don't know of any easier way to check this without a timing light..
Get the #1 piston to come upon the compression stroke and line up the timing mark on the crankpulley. Once there , remove the dist cap and see if the rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire terminal on the dist cap , make sure that that wire goes to the #1 plug. If it is OK that would eliminate the pin that goes through the dist gear. If it doesn't point to that terminal on the cap let us know.

 

Did you replace the coil as well?

 

also I need to know about the timming marks on the balancer somewhat confused do i use the degree marks or the cut line for top dead center and then the 12 degree mark they are as you know quite opposit sides of the ballancer also picked up the new loaded distributor

 

thank you hanky and blue wind just another thing on my list ohms out ok but i may as well change that to just to eliminate it .

 

just a thought would week springs do this ?

 

As for the proper timing marks I would go with a manual like Haynes or Chilton. public libraries tend to have them.
Weak springs make your ride softer. ---Just kidding!

Weak valve springs won't be able to keep up at high rpms. They should be able to handle idle and low rpms, lets say the lower half of the range.

 

both mags do not show this particular balancer as the degree marks are on the balancer and not the usual timming post and the notch is 180 to the degree marks

 

The crank pulley should have a "0" at the beginning of the degree marks , that should be TDC. With that 0 at the pointer and the #1 piston on the compression stroke it should be close enough to make sure the rotor is at the # 1 plug wire.
When you replaced the timing chain were the correct marks on the cam gear and crank gear where they were supposed to be aligned?
A compression test could help here.

If the crank pulley spun on the hub ,the timing marks become useless, lets hope that doesn't come into the picture.

 

thank you hanky yes they were and compression 140 with oil just about back together i will let you know how it comes out

 

I have tried everything i know new includes ,tc gears,tps,coil,egr,sp,wires,cap rotor,distributor{loaded}484-343-8808 NOTHING SEEMS TO CHANGE THAT IT JUST WONT RUN