Hey All, we have a 2002 Windstar with about 150k on it. Almost every time we drive the van anything more than 15 minutes it won't start back up right away. It cranks just fine and fires up but either immediately stalls or sputters and dies. It seems to me like a fuel issue but I'm not sure what.

Here's the odd thing if you let it sit for 20-30 minutes most times it will fire right up and run fine. Sometimes though what gets it to start is simply shifting through the gears and putting it back in park. Meaning I try to start it it starts, sputters and dies... I shift through the gears and back into park then it fires up and runs great.

Had injectors cleaned and a new fuel filter. Any insight into this would be very appreciated.

 

Tough one.
This shifting throught he gears to make it run makes me think that there is an electrical issue. The ECU gets informed if you step on the brake, put it in gear or put on the A/C and adjusts the idle speed accordingly.

First question: is the CEL on and if so what is the code?

Without the answer to the above question I am thinking you may have a reason to sort through the array of sensors, not replacing them mind you. Sensors give the ECU voltage signals and voltage drops can mess with them.

Clean the MAF sensor with MAF senosr cleaner. Replace air filter if needed.
Make sure there are no vacuum leaks at the intake manifold area.
Make sure the brake lights are funcioning properly.
Make sure the BOO (brake on-off) sensor is fine. Find it near the brake pedal.
Check the transmission range sensor.
Check throttle position sensor.
Make sure the battery and charging system are in top shape.
Make sure all ground connections are free of corrosion.

Did you ever replace the isolator bolt grommets on this vehicle?
Are the tiny white bushings in place at the intake manifold runner controls?
How old are the spark plugs, wires and coilpack?

That should get you started eliminating potential causes. I approach something like this by prioritizing cheap things first.

 

What really throws me is what I mentioned in my post. The fact that moving the gear selector fixes the issue. My understanding of transmission range sensor is that it will keep the car from turning over and I don't have that issue.

The rest of the items you mentioned would have no relation to the gear selector correct? I'm open to anything but don't see how some of the common issues fit in this scenario.

 

A single one of these issues won't make a difference but an accumulation of them could.
Now do you have the sevice engine soon light on or not?

 

Nope no indicator lights ever come on. The brake light is on because the e-brake sensor is out but it's been like that for over a year now. MAF sensor has been cleaned, new fuel filter, new air filter.

It seems like something is cutting off the fuel pump. I actually bought a fuel pump but wanted to research the issue more before throwing parts in.

 

Alright.
E-brake has nothing to do with it. So following your hunch that it is fuel related: I would test the fuel pressure.

 

Just my 2 cents worth but have you considered a dirty or failing ignition switch as well as the suggestions by bluewind? Not the ignition lock cylinder. It is mounted under the steering column and is directly related to the gear shift lever.

 

Ignition switch never came to mind as the engine always turns over. I cleaned the IAC valve today with no change. However, I'm not convinced the gear selector has anything to do with it. I'm thinking that that resolving it is just a coincidence and it's turning the key off and on that does something.

I've also found that when it won't start or starts and then dies, the fuel pump is definitely not priming. I don't hear anything at the fuel pump... When I do hear it prime the van runs fine every time. I'm thinking it's got to be a bad fuel pump and it starts failing when warm intermittently.

 

That is very much possible.
In the video they show how to listen for pump noises and how to hook up a fuel pressure gauge. If you have help by someone doing the listening or turning the key you should be able to narrow this down.
If the the pump does not operate it could be a faulty relay.
If it does operate and you have a no start it could also be a faulty fuel pressure regulator.

When you turn the key the ignition switch turns the ignition system on, when you turn it further the starter gets power and turns the engine over. So it is possible that a faulty ignition switch fails to provide spark even though the starter turns the engine over. I think that is what ModestRick had in mind.

I think you are close to determine the fault.