Windstar/Aerostar The beginning of the minivan for Ford.

3.8 Cam Synchro tool

Old 04-05-2019, 06:52 AM
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Join Date: May 2018
Location: Albertson, NY 11507
Posts: 16
Default 3.8 Cam Synchro tool

Hello folks. I've been so busy trying to get my Windstar back on the road since last year's spun rod bearing. Now equipped with a salvaged engine I'm trying to get all the kinks out. I did change the front cover and installed a new water pump, oil pump and timing chain to name a few. In doing so the cam synchronizer was removed. I did a bad job initially reinstalling everything and had to re-re-installing the front cover when I discovered a leaking timing cover gasket that allowed Coolant to mix with engine oil. Now that that's fixed I've been trying to get the thing inspected. Fearing a failed inspection I attributed a rough idle and some lean codes and catalytic converter codes illuminating my "CEL" to poor ignition timing. While I tried to reinstall that Synchronizer I seem to have worsened the effect and now an audible rattle eminates from the cam sensor. Without any timing marks on the crank damper it is difficult finding TDC on compression stroke for number 1 piston with the engine installed. I think I had an easier time lining things up with the engine out of the car. Now I'm troubled lining up the cam synchronizer respective to TDC. Most sources maintain 54* from the engines centerline is the target for the arrow on the tool but some iterate the centerline respective to the vehicle ....any thoughts? Even the Chilton's and Haynes Manuals instruct the line respective to the engines centerline but in subsequent instructions they indicate a line parallel with the "front(bank)" of the engine which runs longitudinally respective to the vehicle.

Last edited by daddyblaize; 04-08-2019 at 03:40 PM. Reason: Poorly written
Old 04-13-2019, 08:09 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 2

My english is rahter bad

Im not sure how easy the valvecover of bank 2 can be removed - but its one way to calibrate the synchronizer.

1. Remove the cover
2. Remove the spark of zylinder 5
3. Figure out the OT - putting in some tool (screwdriver...) in cylinder 5

When cyl. 1 is in TDC (end of compressions stroke) and both valves are closed, then cyl.5 is also in OT and his exhaust valve ist closing, the intake valve ist opening -> this ist the marking position fr the SKN!

Inserting it, the pin must be now exaktyl in the window, when its completly lowert/down. Fix it, cap on it - done.

The ONLY THING the tool does - fixing the pin of the rotor axes to the housing, so it is positioned into the center of the window. A very stupid and unnessessary tool - good for NOTHING
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