THIS RIGHT HERE WE HAVE A WINNER

immediately after leaving mechanic shop who didn't charge me it took him 3 minutes the mechanic did the REAR LATCH and i come home to see your post

thank you for trying to help the irritation level of the problem
has got me so frustrated i wasn't listening

i also managed to remove the latch assembly completely out of the door so i could fit my arm in their to unplug the senser

i unplugged the 2 sensers on the hatch and the 2 sensers on the sliding door

THE INTERIOR LIGHTS STILL WILL NOT SHUT OFF AND I AM STILL GETTING DOOR AJAR LIGHT ON DASHBOARD
(the 1995 windstar GL doesn't have door ajar it just has a picture of an open door on the dash lit up) but same thing

at the moment i am attempting to hopefully reset the computer by disconnecting positive and negative cables from the battery

i am hoping it will clear it up

 

well resetting the battery did nothing i unhooled the positive and negative cables for about an hour and the interior lights are still on

i have the 2 sensers on the back hatch unplugged and the 2 sensers on the sliding door unplugged

the driver and passenger doors both make a buzzing sound when you open them from what im reading that means its not those dors so it has to be the sliding door or the back hatch door

i still can not get the interior light to go off when the van is parked
unless i disconnect the battery every time i exit the vehicle

 

Doing some reading I noticed a few with similar issues that have made the repair by spraying WD-40 into all the door locks. Others found their issue related to the GEM timeout circuit or battery saver relay.

I have personally run into a similar issue in a non-Ford vehicle that related directly to the GEM/BCM. We ended up installing a switch in the fuse box line for the dome light as it was very expensive to replace the GEM.

Sorry I am unable to help, but though the findings might suggest some test procedure recommendations.

 

i tried the wd 40 before everything else it didn't work 4 me

the battery saver and gem i been reading this also and im confused on how i should approach it because im not sure if it really is the problem
its a 500 dollar vehicle and im broke so i don't want to spend any money on it oriellys auto parts says they have a gem for 170 but its not worth it for the old vehicle it is and im not sure if thats the problem



removing the battery saver is what im thinking im not sure if im looking at the right piece under the dash
or
wiring up this switch your talking about

if i remove battery saver will that work

wiring up a switch to a
-->> DIFFERENT EMPTY FUSE SPOT ON THE FUSE BOX ? <<--
just to turn on the interior lights and
==>>PULLING THE INTERIOR LIGHT FUSE OUT OF THE FUSE BOX ? <<--

wiring up a switch sounds perfect i have never done that how is that done it sounds simple and effective

removing the light turning on as you open the door isnt a big deal at this point if i am able to just remove something like a senser or relay so i can just turn lights on manually then problem would be solved

really at this point my final goal is just turn on interior lights manually and shut them off manually

1
either by a wiring up a switch to the interior lights from the fuse box so i can only turn them on manually

or

2
by removing battery saver relay so the interior lights
only come on manually by using the dimmer dial on the dash

the dimmer dial pushes up to turn on and clicks as you
push down making the lights off and farther down dimming the dashboard and gauges

or is removing the battery saver relay a bad idea will removing battery saver relay make my locks and windows not work?

will removing battery saver relay make the battery drain or couse electical problems?

 

really at this point my final goal is just turn on interior lights manually and shut them off manually

There is another stab in the dark: Your dimmer does not have an "off" position. But me thinks the whole current will have to run through that dimmer. So try this: remove the dimmer and unhook the harness in the back. Do the lights go out?

 

sounds like a good idea i have to leave i will try it first thing in the morning thank you

 

“If it were me” I would swap the Battery Saver Rely and the Interior Lamp Rely with another. More often than not you will find that many relays in the box are the same and interchangeable. This will eliminate the possibility of a stuck relay.

If the same results returned I would then remove fuse 29 (if this book is even close) it should be the 15amp Battery Saver Relay, Interior Lamp Control Relay, Interior Lamps and Keyhole Lamps fuse.

If your lights go out and you are happy with the result, this is where you would splice in a switch.

I am hopeful someone will ring in with a test for the GEM other than an appointment at Ford. That would be a neat trick to learn.

 

I am hopeful someone will ring in with a test for the GEM other than an appointment at Ford. That would be a neat trick to learn. [/QUOTE]


FireMe from the ford truck forum:

The GEM itself isn't tested, but circuits going in and out are, as well as certain functions within the GEM using output state control.

But there is nothing we have that bench-tests the GEM itself.

Following the pinpoint tests in the manual usually give a good diagnosis.

 

Freekkc:

This thread is getting long and bits may get lost soIi try to restate the problem:

Dome lights do not turn off and leave you with a dead battery after parking some hours.

We tried some solutions:
1. Disconnect battery.--works, but cumbersome.
2. Turn down the dimmer wheel: --you say it still drains the battery.

I have been truning off the interior lights in my 03 Windstar SEL for a long time and it works for me. My dimmer wheel has several positions: dimming range, domelights only, and completely off.
If your dimmer wheel has a "completely off" position and using it still drains the battery there are 2 posibilities: the off position in the switch does not work (faulty switch) or there is another drain on the battery that is independent of the interior lights.

You can spent a lot of time on fixing all the door switches either replacing them or cleaning them with an electronic cleaner and adding dry lube to the plastic pin. Or you can disable them by pulling fuse #3 on the I/P fuse panel, or disconnecting the wire harness of the dimmer.

You can use a voltmeter to see if disabling one circuit ends the drain on the battery.
Doing this and using ModestRick's suggestion of swapping relays should help you narrow it down.

Also, since the battery has been dead and revived a few times, give this battery a good charge with a charger, then perform a load test (google for battery load test).
Do not rely on the alternator to recharge the battery. This task may fry the alternator (about $200).

 

i tried to remove this fuse many steps ago and yes it coused the lights to stay off but it also coused them to not be used as in never turn on


i think it disabled my locks to i cant remember i will try again to be sure its a fast think to try and then i will try the relay swap