I have a 2003 Ford Windstar SE. I have a ghost in my car. One day I cranked and fired the motor with new fuel, fuel filter, and cleaned lines. It ran but would not idle. It died. The battery was killed. I got a new battery and at the same time took my alternator in to have it checked. It was shot. I bought a new alternator. I got it in. I fueled up. It would not fire. The fuel pump was dead. So, I got a new fuel pump. It was re-fueled. It fired after I primed it by turning the key to ACC and off about 6 or 7 times. It died immediately after it fired. I lwt it set for 10 minutes. I got in it and fired it up. I reved it to check RPM. It was good. It Idled at 800 to 1000 to start then acter it warmed up it idled down near the 650 to 800 range. I shut it off. I left it cor the night. I went to fire it the next morning and the POS would not start at all. It actually killed my battery. The alternator was checked again... not bad at all. I have changed the fuel filter, the lines and pump. I have dropped the tank twice. I have good compression. The starter works as it cranks at normal interval. So... what am I missing guys? Fuel injectors? Sensors? All spark plugs have been replaced and coil packs are new. Hmm. Dumbfounded but I am dure it is something simple. One last thing... I am working alone. There is a sound that is slightly strange. I turn the key to ACC. The fuel pump is heard, but a odd sound like liquid being poured out in a stream onto the geound is heard, but no leaks are seen at all. Not a drop on the ground. (It is not quite a hiss... more like the sound of a short pee by a gentleman standing, if that makes sense). Help plz.

 

First things first,
A quick check, the rear wiper motor /switch could it be trying to wash the rear window and the wiper is stuck on something? I would check that out and get rid of that possibility first. Will check back after you get a chance to check it.

 

The whiper is not the sound. I pulled it back as if I was cleaning the window and it was not moving. I would have heard it clunk back to the window if it was on. The hiss sound still occurred. I think it is my fuel pump. The question still remains why it fires one time, then does not fire, then fires the next itme and then will fire. It is very hit and miss on it actually turning over and idling. Help... plz. Thanks, by the way, for suggesting I look at the whipers. It was a new angle. I am going to check the fuel filter again. Maybe I missed something.

 

The fuel pump should not run at all with the key in the accessory position. Are you sure what you hear is the fuel pump ?
I know you stated you replaced the fuel pump, but do you have any means to verify the pump is working when you crank over the engine? Could there be a poor electrical connection supplying either power or ground right at the fuel pump plug? Many good pumps get replaced because the electrical tests were never done.

 

I have been saying ACC. :Forehead slap: Tbis one is on me and makes me look like I am clueless and maybe misleading with other info. This, I promise is not the case. So let me walk this step by step as to exactly what I am doing. I put the key into the ignition. It dings continuoulsy, indicating the key is in. I turn the key toward the dash to ON and the bell dings 6 times. The fan blows for 1.5 seconds and then the lights on the dash all illuminate before slowly go off. The only lights remaining are Battery, Engine, oil, airbag deployed, and brake. The odometer reads 145582.5 mi. As I turn the key to ON it also wakes the fuel pump. During which the sound of a man urinating into a small puddle is made. The fuel pump works. The relay works. I keep checking the fuel filter to make sure then line is clear.
(A little back story. I blew the head gasket in November 2014. It mixed oil and coolant. I pulled it apart down to the empty casing. I then checked for warping. None. I checked the pistons and re-ringed them. I cleaned all the parts, rebuilt entire motor- replacing the timing system. I put a new head gasket and egr gasket making sure all the assembly was done to spec. I even check the valves, stems, springs and rockers. I put a new plenum on with new gasket as well. I need to get a new master airflow as there is a hole in the assembly. I flushed all the fluids from antifreeze to transmission fluid (includes oil, windshield washer fluid, and even freon for AC.) It fired it and put it in gear. It idled fine. I shut it off. Let it set 10 minutes, tried to fire but it cranked and never started. I discovered the alternator was bad. I got a new battery and new alternator. The fuel pump was not working. I tested it on a voltometer and it was not working. I bought a used fuel pump with a 1 year warranty. I put that in, but before doing so, pulled the fuel filter, replaced it, blew the lines out and cleaned the tank entirely. Let it sit 72 hours in a shop out of the elements. I then put it back 2 days ago with the fuel pump and new fuel filter. I fired it. It idled. It was fine. I walked the entire vehilcle on the outside. I listened, observed. I drove it, put 6 gallons of gas in and took it back to my house. The next morning I went out to find the damn thing would not fire at all. So here I am qithbabtotally rebuilt system and not sure what I am missing. Hell after 300 miles I was going to do another full systembflush, but I cant even seem to 15 miles in. So, again, help. And before you suggest it is any of the engine rebuild, ask yourself: "Why would it fire, idle, shift and be fine. Do this 3 or four times them not fire at all?" Also, all cylinders have spark. The coil packs were also replaced. Here we go...

 

Thank you for all the info.
You know you have spark, but how do you know you are getting fuel up to the injectors?
Two things you can do, pull a spark plug and see if it is wet or dry. Or you might give it a short spray of carb/choke cleaner into the intake and see if it runs even for 3 seconds. If so , fuel supply problem. We should be able to pin down what is causing the no start.
When you first turn the key on ,when it will not start, do you hear the fuel pump run for the usual 2-3 seconds?

 

Under the van in the fuel tank area should be a fuel pump driver module. It is bolted to the body framework. That module could have accumulated corrosion under where it is mounted. remove it and check it, if a lot of corrosion it has to be replaced . Can work sometimes and sometimes not. Known to be troublesome, replacement will have instructions on preventing repeat failures. The driver module gets the signal from the computer and determines when the fuel pump will work.