I mentioned in another thread I would post pics of my Motor Electronics Colling Sysytem Pump.
The first is the location. Right by the oil filter. Remove the splash guard to gain access. There are 5 screws holding the splash guard and 2 bolts for the MECS pump. All 10mm.

This is the technical service bulletin alerting anyone with the old Bosch pump to a failure. If you have 100,000 miles like mine there is no way you should chance it. The pump is 150 bucks but worth not getting an engine shutdown warning.

Here the old pump is removed. The hose clamps are easy...grab the tabs with adjustable wrench and open the clamp and slide it away from both hose nipples. The hoses may be married to the plastic. take off the horizontal hose first. Fluid will drain. The elctrical connection comes off with a squeeze. Disconnect the 2 bolts holding the pump to access the vertical hose.

the offending pump

The comparison to the new.

 

The next 3 are the install. Note that these pics may help someone with disassembly as well. The electronic connection oly goes on one way.



Now, once you have this installed, fill the degas bottle with 50/50 yellow coolant and water. Turn the key on to start the pump. The pump will empty the degas bottle. Refill. Then locate the bleed screw for the transaxle. It is circled in the pic. It is located on the drivers side...find the brake fluid reservoir and look down for 2 wiring harness connectors. The screw is just under one as you can see in the pic.


Turn the key to start the pump and open this screw. Just crack it a turn or so. You will hear the syatem bleed from the degas bottle and almost no sound from this screw. That said, the service manual states to open it but very little bleeding will happen so don't be surprised. Tighten it up and put the guard back on and you should be done. You just saved $600.

 

Thanks for the right procedure on that stupid pump and that's why I won't own any thing that new

 

Nice job! Nice pix too!

 

Shopsmith - thanks for your post and photos. My replacement pump arrived today and I will be installing it this evening.

 

No problem. Hope it helps. For a higher milage Escape don't forget to check your ac lines on the passenger side between the radiator and engine. If cracked you should replace. The car WILL NOT run without ac so a blown ac hose will shut you down. Remember to do the battery filter and fuel filter. Drain the trans and refill as well. Just some FYI for you.

 

Excellent job! My Escape Hybrid is in for the dreaded ABS ECU replacement, and in the course of researching that did I find out about this MECS issue as well - from what appears to be your post on Escape City.

Luckily, my MECS pump seems to have been replaced by the previous owner - now if only I could verify some of the other stuff was done as you pointed out (for example, the battery harness). The dealer ran the VIN through the system, and no recalls or TSBs "show up"…we can "assume" they were done…but I don't really know.

 

You need to take the preventative measures vs just hope and pray. The car is great. It just requires some attention. And yes, the throttle body, wiring harness, AC hoses, rear battery filter...those should be done.
Pay attention for a clunk from the rear. If it does make this noise, and it's an AWD, just pull the 4wd control module fuse. You can find posts about why, but basically it means the rear clutch is going and its not a cheap fix.

 

Thanks is great info. This afternoon I started my car (2006 ford escape), after I shift to reverse the engine started to accelerate by it self, I shift to neutral, the red triangle came on and of course the entire system died. Turn the switch to off position and turned on again, this time I noticed between shifts the engine accelerates and decelerates and turned off againg. Any help will be great. Thanks

 

The red triangle is a real problem. In the hybrids its either the throttle body, a new pcm fuse, rear harness for the HV Battery or an actuator for the rear battery. No way to know unless you can read the Ford codes.