I drained and blew out all the lines as much as I could. Once the remaining bad gas was out, it ran smoothly. Had some oil on the exhaust that had to burn off. Drove ok to the end of the driveway and back but the engine light came on and I shut the car off. Coolant was a little low but oil level was fine. But now it won’t start. Argh. I was hoping to get it over to the detailer this week.

other than that it’s in excellent condition. 34k miles.

 

Hi Andy,
Won't start can mean a lot of things.,,,,,,,,,,,Nice shape !
Can you provide some addl info?
Does it crank over , but won't start running?
Does it not crank over at all?
Does it make any attempt to start running?
Now is when you check for spark. If you have spark and it still won't start there could be a fuel supply problem, but if it didn't shut off by itself I doubt if it is a fuel problem.
Make sure the inertia switch has not jumped open which could prevent the fuel pump from running. Do you hear the fuel pump run for the usual 2 seconds when you turn the key on? If not check all the fuses and ground connections.
If you have no spark at any one of the plug wires, then we take a different course.

 

Once I replaced the fuel items this morning, I managed to get it running pretty smoothly. Let it idle for a while then drove it up and down the driveway a few times. The engine light came on so I shut it off. It was low on coolant but wasn’t overheating and it’s got plenty of oil. But when I tried to start it again it cranked over but didn’t start. No sputtering or trying to start, just cranking. I’m pretty sure it’s ignition since I tried spraying some starting fluid and it made no difference. The first place to start is checking for spark unless there is a common problem to check that causes something like this.

 

I’m assuming this year doesn’t have any sort of computer code and the engine light is just an idiot light.

 

Your vehicle DOES have the ability to display codes, the system just uses a different method of displaying them.

I can tell you , if the light stays on, there is what is called a Hard Code in the computer.
"Lisle", makes a little tool (#443) that makes it easier to get the codes and erase them if desired. The last time I checked it cost under $20.
If you manage to get the tool I should be able to help you get some unbelievable info from your vehicle.
The computer in your vehicle , with this little tool will provide hard codes, continuous codes and also do dynamic testing The 2 digit codes are readily available on the net .
You are in a good position with a vehicle you know a lot about and no one else has got into it to leave you more problems, we hope.

If you have problems getting parts, , check with , "Vintage Parts Inc." located in Beaver Dam , Wisc.

If you can, read up on all the info you can find about your vehicle and one of the common problems was a sticking open EGR valve . This condition could if severe enough prevent it from starting. That vehicle probably rides like a Lincoln Town car because it is heavy. Nice find.

 

Thanks Hanky. I was able to get the codes using the test light method:

22 - MAP/BARO out of self test range
31 - EVP current below minimum voltage

I think problems with the EGR valve are fairly common with these, so I’ll pull it and try to clean it up and see if that does anything.

edit: I checked the diaphragm on the egr valve and it’s not sticking.

I checked the MAP sensor with the key on but engine off. Orange wire 5v, black wire 0.5 ohms. Traced the vacuum hose all the way to the manifold and it’s good. Unplugged the MAP and tried starting. It acted like it was flooded, eventually started but wouldn’t run. Plugged the MAP back in and it started and ran fine. Check engine light is off. So, perhaps something going on with the connector. MAP sensors are cheap for these, might just replace it anyway as it looks like the original Ford part.

I think either of these would cause a no start condition, but it all seems to be fine now. I’m suspicious though, since I haven’t actually found the cause of the problem.

And this car is probably the heaviest I’ve put on my trailer. It’s a 16 footer, and the car stuck out 2 feet past the end. My little electric winch was complaining pretty hard. I think I maxed out both my trailer and my truck. The back wheels of the truck were almost off the ground when I was loading it.

I also bought a 1972 Mustang notchback project at the same time. I didn’t really want it but he threw out a stupid number for a price, and because I’m stupid too I said sure I’ll take it 😀 All painted and ready to go back together, rebuilt engine and transmission, lots of new parts.

 

The next time (if) the engines refuses to restart, use a spark tester ot an old spark plug (with a helper to crank engine) and see if you lost spark.I have used circuit cooler on the ignition control module to trouble shoot finicky, temperature sensitive failures. A can of starting fluid would be next to use. My belief is you are losing spark. I doubt any of those items setting a code will prevent the engine from starting.I would not "guess" and start replacing the map sensor.