1990 E-150 Check Engine Light ON
Ok I have this van and it hasn't ran since 2007. I charged the battery and it fired right up within 2 seconds. It idles ok, but is seems real rough. The check engine light is on but I haven't had time to read the codes. I parked it because after having the head gasket replaced, it would stall when you release the gas. After doing some research yesterday I decided to start it up. For the hour it ran it didn't stall. The engine temp stayed around 3/4 which seems high but it was still in normal range, the radiator wasn't completely full so that is why I think the temp went that high. How do you remove the dog house in these vans so I can access the engine?
Anytime you disconnect the battery on some of the older vehicles you need to give it time to reprogram itself to your driving habits. It will, just give it a couple of trips. The idle problem just may clear up automatically.
There are two bolts at the bottom of the doghouse on the floor. Remove them and release the 2 latches , one on each side of the doghouse located at the front. The one on the driver's side is right next to the accelerator pedal.
If you have stuff in the top pockets of the doghouse , it would be best to remove the stuff because when you lift and turn to get it out from between the seats all the stuff dumps. If the bolts haven't been removed for quite a while , helps to give them a shot of penetrating oil to make removal easier. Some can be quite rusty from water issues. If you never saw the back of the engine before you will be amazed at the accessibility to all the components. Have fun!!!
There are two bolts at the bottom of the doghouse on the floor. Remove them and release the 2 latches , one on each side of the doghouse located at the front. The one on the driver's side is right next to the accelerator pedal.
If you have stuff in the top pockets of the doghouse , it would be best to remove the stuff because when you lift and turn to get it out from between the seats all the stuff dumps. If the bolts haven't been removed for quite a while , helps to give them a shot of penetrating oil to make removal easier. Some can be quite rusty from water issues. If you never saw the back of the engine before you will be amazed at the accessibility to all the components. Have fun!!!
Ok I cant figure out how to get the stored codes. I have the wire jumped correctly but can't figure out how to read the digital multimeter. It flashes so fast I can't read it. Is there anyway to get the check engine light to flash like my Honda?
If you have a pen/pencil and paper ready just start with whatever ones you can copy.
If they go too fast , just turn the key off wait a few minutes and start again, only the next time wait until you get past the codes you already copied. They should all be two digit codes. You might check with your local auto store for this tool.
Made by Thexton, tool#443 . Called , Ford Trouble Code Retrieval Tool.
Simple but satisfactory for getting OBD I codes and not expensive at all. Like $12.00
You can find it at ,Automotive Tools Specialty | Auto Mechanic | Technician Diagnostic Testing Equipment | Thexton If you need assistance with the codes , just ask.
I never tried it with a digital meter, don't think it can be done. Need an analog meter.
If they go too fast , just turn the key off wait a few minutes and start again, only the next time wait until you get past the codes you already copied. They should all be two digit codes. You might check with your local auto store for this tool.
Made by Thexton, tool#443 . Called , Ford Trouble Code Retrieval Tool.
Simple but satisfactory for getting OBD I codes and not expensive at all. Like $12.00
You can find it at ,Automotive Tools Specialty | Auto Mechanic | Technician Diagnostic Testing Equipment | Thexton If you need assistance with the codes , just ask.
I never tried it with a digital meter, don't think it can be done. Need an analog meter.
Last edited by hanky; Oct 6, 2011 at 07:43 PM.
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