Hi all. After some advise. My step dad has a 1992 econoline running a 5.0 i. It went for mot and failed the emmisions as far to rich. After a day or 2 started to run very badly and almost sounded like it was running on 4 cylinders. Smoked badly. Now wont start at all. The codes off obd1 are 99 , 81 , 23. Am i correct in thinking that it has a MAP fitted and this could cause these problems or am i barking up the wrong tree? Any help greatfully recieved. We have checked spark, fuel, 35psi fuel pressure. Fuel pump runs for couple of seconds and cuts out before cranking which is believed to be correct...so bit stumped until we try a MAP but just want to get some advise 1st..

 

You can try this and it won't cost a thing.
On the fuel rail is the fuel pressure regulator. You can identify it by the circular appearance and a vacuum hose connected to the top of it.
Remove the vacuum hose , you might see fuel leak out. If so , the internal diaphram has ruptured and the regulator has to be replaced.
It is usually held in place with 3 allen head screws.

 

We have ordered a fuel regulator already as was tild it maybe that. So will give that a go also. Thank you

 

We have replaced the fuel pressure regulator. Still wont start. If you plant the throttle to the floor a d hold it there is trys to start but wont start. When it was last running it seemed to just get the exhaust warm down one side of the engine and ran rough as hell. What would stop one side off the engine running? Injector rail for that side?
removed all the plugs and none are wet yet have 40psi at the fuel rail.
🙉🙉

 

We have replaced the fuel pressure regulator. Still wont start. If you plant the throttle to the floor a d hold it there is trys to start but wont start. When it was last running it seemed to just get the exhaust warm down one side of the engine and ran rough as hell. What would stop one side off the engine running? Injector rail for that side?
removed all the plugs and none are wet yet have 40psi at the fuel rail.
🙉🙉

 

Still cant get it started. It does try with pedal flat on the floor but wont start. When it was running but running badly. One side the engine exhaust was hot the other cold. So would this be possible one side of the injector rail is blocked?

 

It's possible.
What do the plugs on that bank look like?


If after trying once to get it started, remove one or two plugs from the cold bank and see what they look like. Are they wet,or dry ? It is rare that the rail would be plugged,, but I would be more inclined to believe the injectors are not working on the cold bank. If the plugs are dry , that would confirm no fuel getting into the cyls..
Now we need to find out why,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,if that is the case. I believe the injectors on each bank fire all at the same time and if we are sure they are not working, I would look for a possible electrical problem.


Check the fuses. When the key is on power should be available at each fuel injector. The ECM provides the ground for the injectors to fire. Let us know what you find so far, thanks.

 

Hi. Thank you for the reply. All the plugs look the same. It may not of been the fact it was running on one side just very badly overall. Now it wont start at all but we used some spray in the air intake and it does try to start. So we think the injectors are not pulsing. We have 12v constant at the injectors when cranking. We have 35psi fuel pressure at the rail
. We pulled the dizzy apart and u can hear it clicking when turning the metal ring inside with the gaps in. We have checked the ecu and no signs or wear or damage. We have checked the fuses and checked the relays for the pcm and they seem ok. We are thinking the dizzy maybe be knackered? Although we do have a very good spark.

 

It is not your distributor. Hopefully, you can reinstall it correctly or you just created another problem. Having 12v at the injectors is only part of what is needed. Each injector needs a constant power source on one of its wires and the other wire on each injector needs to be pulsed to ground level by the computer to operate. I don't know to what extent you checked this. I would look for a wiring issue between the injectors and the ECM. If that is PROVEN good, pull the cover off your ECM and look for any bulged out/ leaky electrolytic capacitors.Disconnect the battery first before messing with the computer.
After you get it running, then you can investigate to stored codes. They are not causing your no start condition.

 

Thank you for the reply.. the distrubuter is back together we didnt remove it or strip it right apart. Just took the cap off etc to check it was clean and cleaned the parts inside. We have checked the computers all look clean. Will check the earth pulse next time i go over to it. Many thanks