In the diagram for the fuse and relay panels, check the power relay .
You also can try to unplug the MAF sensor and see if the voltage changes.
There is the possibility one of the sensors is shorted and pulling the voltage down.
One of the ways to check this is to unplug each sensor and see if the voltage goes back up. If so , that sensor could be internally shorted.
Did you check if you had 12 volts going to the PCM ?

 

I tried swapping the relays in the dist. box (all 4 the same part #) with no change. I also tried unpluging the MAF and the MAP sensors and the voltage reading stayed the same. I do have 12 volts to the top 4 pins for the PCM (with the harness unpluged). what about the crank sensor? someone told me it is located behind the A/C compressor. Will a bad fuel pump trip something to cause a no spark condition?

 

Does the PCM I installed have to be "flashed" for my particular van or should it be ok since numbers match?

 

The PCM should not have to be flashed.
You might open the dash and check the actual terminals of the voltmeter and see what your multimeter shows.
Has the windshield in your van ever been replaced?
Does this vehicle have any kind of anti-theft system ?

 

No anti-theft system,and the windshield was replaced but that was in 02 or 03. (it does need to be replaced now I cracked it from the inside with a 12' piece of trim).I'll see about checking the reading at the guage itself.

 

The reason I asked about the windshield is because after replacement they leak!!
The moisture gets into the fuse panel and causes havoc with connections due to rust and corrosion.Did your owner's manual show an EEC power relay? There are so many variations with different models it's hard to tell what you have in there.
I would stick with your own PCM unless we can prove otherwise.
Once you know if the reading at your dash voltmeter is accurate or not, would eliminate chasing poor connections to the instrument panel. There is supposed to be a fuse for the CE lite . If so, make sure the connections at both sides of the fuse are good and clean. When I had fuse panel problems due to moisture removing and reinstalling the fuses once or twice helped get things working. After that I just checked those things first when problems were reported.

 

There is a PCM relay,

But not sure why there was a fuse in the IDM position given there's no IDM, and why its blown. Are you sure about the position and box? Was it in CJB or BJB?

Is there any voltage at the coil connector/s? Fuel pump run?

 

My windshield does leak directly above the steering wheel and runs down towards the dash. I'll check all the connections in the fuse block. There are 4 relays PCM relay,blower relay,horn relay and fuel pump/IDM relay. I don't see an EEC relay or fuse. The fuse I found under the hood that was blown say's IDM relay in my diagram. Isn't that diesel part?

 

I do have power to the coil packs when the key is on, but to all three wires not sure if that is normal. the fuel pump i'm not sure, I don't hear it when I turn the key on but I don't ever recall ever hearing it.

 

PCM/EEC = EEC is integrated into the PCM..

There should be seperate relays for fuel pump, and IDM diesel (IDM relay/postion would the same relay for A/C clutch for the 4.2) seprate fuses as well,, position 11 for IDM, 17 for fuel pump..

Reason for asking if the fuel pump runs is to varify the PCM power relay is operational/closing fo power distribution.. Could do the same by checking at the MAF, injector connectors etc. for power through a closed PCM relay..

The question about the coil connector was to prove out the fuse (in the interior CJB) and power distribution out to the coils..

Could be just a failed crank position sensor PCM wouldn't see an input signal for crank position/ignition timing.