Battery voltage is falling off, and should be maintained.

With the PCM power relay removed (key on) do you have 2 12v legs there?

 

No, I have one 12v leg. Looking down at the socket from the front of the van there are 3 vertical slots and 2 horiz. The far left vertical slot has power

 

Ok..

Since you confirmed the PCM relay is in fact clicking cycling the key on/off..

Make 'Sure' the #9 30 amp fuse out in the battery junction box is good with a light or meter, both sides.. As well as the #4 10 amp fuse in the BJB. Both must be 'hot at sll times'

 

Hey Guys, I'm still with you.
Is there any chance a wiring diagram can be posted ? I agree with all the steps Hayapower is offering, but I am concerned that the voltage drop is not going to show up without the circuit being loaded and if the diagram is available maybe we can offer some suggestions where the voltage drop is taking place. What do you think?

 

But is there really a drop, or is the dash gauge off.

No matter what the ol dash shows, the connector reading seem to follow the batt., not so much the dash lie-o-meter. At the very least, should show 'some' voltage on the missing leg in question..

Thought you had something there Hanky with the windshield, but seems that the interior box circuit to the PCM relay coil is working/active in closing the relay. 8v it getting close to a problem, if its even accurate.

Seems were missing something here,, we'll see what he comes back with as far as the 2 fuses in the BJB for PCM distribution.. Easy test,, may be (since the supply for the PCM seems to be missing) would be to just add a fused test lead to one of the 12v dist. circuits, or, add it to the PCM relay (removed) connector load/out and see if the injector, MAF etc are then hot..

Need to know about both the fuses above. Just seeems to follow a dist. problem there..

 

Do those two fuses in question supply the coils and injectors separately ?
I'm puzzled by the 12 volts available to the coils and not to the injectors. Don't they both get supplied from the same source , the PCM power relay? If you have access to the diagram, where does the division/splice take place if they are on the same circuit?

 

Power for the ignition coils comes out of the CJB,, but not through the PCM power relay..

The 2 fuses mentioned are in the BJB and are directly related to volt. supply for PCM input, injectors, MAF, fuel relay, etc. and dependant on a closed relay, as wellas current to run through it..

The voltage for the PCM relays coil comes from the CJB.. So does the circuit protection for the ignition coils, same fuse.. Thats why the relay is cycling.. ..Fixed gound...

 

Okay guys I got the van running, the problem that I/we were trying to figure out was partially my fault. When I found the original blown 30 amp fuse, I pulled it out and took it with me to the auto parts store. when I put the new fuse in I put it in #11 instead of #9 Sorry...but after i put it in the right spot, I drove around the block and it blew again. I wired an inline 30amp CB and pluged spade connectors into the PCM fuse slots and ran it for a while and got a check engine light. I pulled a P1451 code with my OBD II which is EVAP Control system. Do you think I should start looking for a short in the wires going to the canister?

 

Thanks for being up front !
Anything that blows a 30 amp fuse or C/B should be getting hot or at least provide a smoke trail. A good visual inspection is always in order.

 

X2

Sometimes we all have the gun to close to the target, and hard to see what we're shoot'n at

Might unplug the Canister Vent Solenoid and replace the fuse, see if it still blows. Don't want to leave that CB in there..