2000 E-250 V8 Break leak after pressing emergency
#11
08-11-2019, 08:38 PM
You are correct regarding 2 circuits.
I want you to know there is no joy giving you all these "bad" things that can happen, but there is more,. If you replace the one line ,you only need to be concerned with the bleeders involving that line. If ,however, both lines allow air to get into the lines because the reservoir went dry,, now all the bleeder screws are involved.. Please check with a local shop to make sure there is not a possible easier way. At least you have some idea where this can go.
If your brake master cyl has separate reservoirs for each line That is a plus, if not the above could apply.
I want you to know there is no joy giving you all these "bad" things that can happen, but there is more,. If you replace the one line ,you only need to be concerned with the bleeders involving that line. If ,however, both lines allow air to get into the lines because the reservoir went dry,, now all the bleeder screws are involved.. Please check with a local shop to make sure there is not a possible easier way. At least you have some idea where this can go.
If your brake master cyl has separate reservoirs for each line That is a plus, if not the above could apply.
#12
08-13-2019, 03:10 PM
IF, you decide to do this yourself, make sure you have plenty of DOT3 brake fluid ,AND here's where the catcher comes in,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, when you go to bleed the brake line, you could run into a problem getting the bleeder screws loose in order to get the air out of the lines and system. That could be the worst part of the job. If this happens now more work comes up and maybe more expense. There is no way to tell until you go to open the bleeder screws. I would give this some serious thought and consider just which way you want to go. AND as always a second opinion never hurts.
#13
08-13-2019, 05:39 PM
Would you know how this is supposed to work? As the air is pulled to the top is the fluid supposed to flow to the lower parts? If you are contemplating purchasing the tool to do this would you be kind enough to maybe list the first three steps ?
#14
08-13-2019, 06:18 PM
connected to bleeder valve and another to suck old brake fluid from master reservoir.
https://www.brakebleeder.com/solutio.../how-it-works/
#15
08-13-2019, 10:25 PM
Just heard back from my local mechanic. He replaced 4 brake lines (intermediate and rear) and charged me almost $500! Next time I’m doing it by myself
#16
08-14-2019, 01:27 PM
I would be reasonably sure he did not have a picnic bleeding the system.
You answered my question about the first three steps which may have eluded you.
You connect to the bleeder valve of each wheel and that is where the can of worms opens..
Did you inquire as to why the price was so high ?
You didn't say if he had to replace any other parts because he couldn't get the bleeders loose without wringing them off.
You answered my question about the first three steps which may have eluded you.
You connect to the bleeder valve of each wheel and that is where the can of worms opens..
Did you inquire as to why the price was so high ?
You didn't say if he had to replace any other parts because he couldn't get the bleeders loose without wringing them off.
Last edited by hanky; 08-14-2019 at 01:43 PM.
#17
08-14-2019, 02:26 PM
Yeah he had to replace total three lines (intermediate and two rear) and also both rear wheel cylinders. Parts = $125 and labor=$300
#18
08-14-2019, 04:22 PM
Having worked on older vehicles like the one in question, the bleeder fittings are most uncooperative and stubborn and when rusted badly just wring off when you attempt to loosen them. So now you have to disconnect the rusted lines and tubing that is equally uncooperative and the tubing twists with the fitting nut and the entire line has to be replaced. Whether you or anyone else you have no choice , but to replace the line too now.. In spite of the higher price you had to pay , I can sincerely say , you made a right decision. Been there done that , many times.
A little side note ,that syringe system might work for a short distance like on a motorcycle that has received the best care available and looks like a million, but that rusty vehicle underneath is a whole different animal. You do know one thing, when you step on that brake pedal, it will stop !! Let's hope you don't have the same problems with the front calipers . At least, all you should have to replace is the caliper and the 20 year old brake hoses. You will enjoy doing that job.
A little side note ,that syringe system might work for a short distance like on a motorcycle that has received the best care available and looks like a million, but that rusty vehicle underneath is a whole different animal. You do know one thing, when you step on that brake pedal, it will stop !! Let's hope you don't have the same problems with the front calipers . At least, all you should have to replace is the caliper and the 20 year old brake hoses. You will enjoy doing that job.
#19
08-15-2019, 07:50 AM
Well, I got it back yesterday from mechanic and pedal still feels spongy when I press it engages half way down. Mechanic told me drive for another week and come back 
What a pain the brake bleeding process is!! I hate it doing on motorcycles too
On top of that I see he only replaced part (where the leak was) of the intermediate (central line) and the part that goes to master cylinder is still rusty!
What a pain the brake bleeding process is!! I hate it doing on motorcycles too
On top of that I see he only replaced part (where the leak was) of the intermediate (central line) and the part that goes to master cylinder is still rusty!
#20
08-15-2019, 12:27 PM
When you have the equip and everything is workable, the bleeding process is pretty easy and quick.In addition to that , brake fluid is recommended to be changed every 2 years due to the copper getting into the fluid and causing other problems. Spongy pedal is usually an indication of air in the lines . Here again we learn not to diagnose over the net because we can't see everything. Eventually , you might wind up replacing everything in the hydraulic brake system all lines and the master also. If a pressure bleeder wasn't used and the operator on the foot brake method was utilized, can open a whole new can of worms if the rubber cups in the master went all the way down and in the process could score the cups on the grit and sediment that was inside the cyl bore. Brake work is not for amateur mechanics and there are a lot of do s and don'ts that the average person is not aware of. That is one of the reasons why good brake shops replace everything because they can't afford comebacks.We can most times replace the $$$ spent on quality work but if a mishap takes place because shortcuts were used , some things can't be replaced.