2007 E450 V10 No Power from bank 1
#1
02-03-2014, 03:12 PM
2007 E450 V10 No Power from bank 1
I have a 2007 E450 cutaway bus v10 6.8 ltr 3 valve 180k miles
It starts but has no power. When I replaced the plugs bank 2 (drivers side) all plugs where black. Bank 1(pass side) all plugs where white. On a high idle it sounds fine but when it idles down it is very low when I put it in gear there is no power barely enough to get it moving.Sometimes it idles so low it will not respond when I step on the gas. When I remove any coil plugs on bank 2 it almost dies but on bank 1 nothing happens when I unplug the coils.
I took it to a cert. Ford tech "TCS Ford specialists" I think all he did was read the codes. anyway he told me the timing chain tensioners where bad & one chain most likely jumped 1 tooth & was out of timing. That makes sense with all the for mentioned symptoms so I opened it up & none of that had happened. The chains had stretched a bit the tensioners where out 3/16th's from bottom. The new ones where 1/16th from bottom. but they where even & all the marks lined up, so that was a bogus diagnosis. I replaced everything anyway (chains guides tensioners & drive sprocket) put it all back together & no change. I replaced the cam & crank sensors no change.
It really seams like a timing problem since all of bank 1 is the same. I'm about to take it to the dealer but after wasting 120 on a mechanic already & 2 days chasing his false diagnosis I'm hesitant.
All I can think of is maybe the cam gear sliped? or a comp prob? I'm stumped. Has anyone seen this problem? Any advice would be helpful. thanks.
It starts but has no power. When I replaced the plugs bank 2 (drivers side) all plugs where black. Bank 1(pass side) all plugs where white. On a high idle it sounds fine but when it idles down it is very low when I put it in gear there is no power barely enough to get it moving.Sometimes it idles so low it will not respond when I step on the gas. When I remove any coil plugs on bank 2 it almost dies but on bank 1 nothing happens when I unplug the coils.
I took it to a cert. Ford tech "TCS Ford specialists" I think all he did was read the codes. anyway he told me the timing chain tensioners where bad & one chain most likely jumped 1 tooth & was out of timing. That makes sense with all the for mentioned symptoms so I opened it up & none of that had happened. The chains had stretched a bit the tensioners where out 3/16th's from bottom. The new ones where 1/16th from bottom. but they where even & all the marks lined up, so that was a bogus diagnosis. I replaced everything anyway (chains guides tensioners & drive sprocket) put it all back together & no change. I replaced the cam & crank sensors no change.
It really seams like a timing problem since all of bank 1 is the same. I'm about to take it to the dealer but after wasting 120 on a mechanic already & 2 days chasing his false diagnosis I'm hesitant.
All I can think of is maybe the cam gear sliped? or a comp prob? I'm stumped. Has anyone seen this problem? Any advice would be helpful. thanks.
#2
02-03-2014, 04:32 PM
The fact that all the plugs in 2 are running rich could mean bank 1 has a problem with running so rich the computer disabled all the injectors on bank 1 to protect the converters and that is why disconnecting the coils has no effect. If you have some carb & choke cleaner try spraying some into the intake and see what if any difference.
It seems the computer may be trying to make up for a big vacuum leak and making the inj pulse width so large it is self defeating. What we really need here is some data like injector pulse width, oxygen sensor responses, and long term and short term fuel trims. A wealth if info can be drawn from that data, but you need a scan tool to get it.
It seems the computer may be trying to make up for a big vacuum leak and making the inj pulse width so large it is self defeating. What we really need here is some data like injector pulse width, oxygen sensor responses, and long term and short term fuel trims. A wealth if info can be drawn from that data, but you need a scan tool to get it.
#3
02-25-2014, 11:28 PM
A quick thing to check would be if you have a plugged catalytic converter. When I suspect that is happening, I'll pull the downstream O2 sensor out and test drive it. It'll be loud but you'll know right away if you've got your power back.
Regarding pulling the downstream O2 sensor - what happens is the upstream cat element collapses and plugs up the downstream cat. The downstream O2 sensor is actually upstream of the downstream cat, so your engine will be able to breathe through the downstream O2 sensor hole. The upstream O2 is used for mixture setting while the downstream sensor is only there for cat performance monitoring so pulling it won't significantly affect the way the engine runs.
BTW, not surprised on the sham diagnosis. I had one where they told me I had sticky valves and needed a valve job. Turned out to be a plugged cat.
Regarding pulling the downstream O2 sensor - what happens is the upstream cat element collapses and plugs up the downstream cat. The downstream O2 sensor is actually upstream of the downstream cat, so your engine will be able to breathe through the downstream O2 sensor hole. The upstream O2 is used for mixture setting while the downstream sensor is only there for cat performance monitoring so pulling it won't significantly affect the way the engine runs.
BTW, not surprised on the sham diagnosis. I had one where they told me I had sticky valves and needed a valve job. Turned out to be a plugged cat.
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