How about using heat gun and heat it up then add penetrating oil and use long reach needle pliers.

 

I'm not sure at this point if the spark plug is out...I think it is so I'm not comfortable using any fluids. I think a set of plyers will work but I need to get the fuel rail off to do that and I don't know how to do that.

 

EXACTLY,,,,,,,,,,,,,What tools were you using to remove the spark plug ?

Were you able to remove any other plugs ?

If you take things one at a time, just maybe you might be able to avoid any addl problems.

You are working from the inside of the vehicle Yes/No ?

 

I was working inside the vehicle. I removed the seats. I was using a normal 5/8s spark plug socket and 3/8 socket extension.. I believe the walls of the spark plug gallery had crud on them.I was able to remove/replace and test the compression on cylinders 2,3,4. I went to do 5 and it was a tight fit getting the socket in. Now it is stuck. Thank you for your help.

 

The reason I asked about the tools used was because most spark plug sockets have a hex on top that allows you to use something other than a ratchet.

You are there to see what is causing the problem and I can't tell from here, lol.

Econolines are not the easiest vehicles to work on and sometimes you need some special tools to avoid troubles.

Don't forget it had 15 years to accumulate the crud you speak of.
I hope you don't have too much trouble repairing the "altered" parts of the fuel rail. Any leak there would not be good AT ALL.

If you can, take it slow and you will be OK. Please keep us informed and feel free to ask for any suggestions that might be helpful, thanks.

A Reminder,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,before removing the spark plug(s) completely, once you break them loose , try to blow any crap out before removing the plug so it can't go into the cylinder and do bad things..

 

I have a replacement plastic part coming in the mail tomorrow. Hopefully it fits properly. I was told by someone else online that I need to reinsert the part I pulled out/broke and push up and that will allow me to release the fuel line. Who knows if he is right though. I spent over an hour looking for videos/guides and can't find anything about this style of fuel line connect. Very frustrating.

I haven't even started working on my actual issue. I just wanted to do a compression test to rule out the heads. Sigh.

I'll make sure 100% that there is no leaks. I've also been really good about blowing everything out constantly. Thanks for your time/help.

 

Just a thought on your stuck socket. If you think the spark plug is completely unscrewed and it's just the socket in sludge that's holding things in place, maybe try cranking the engine with all the wires or coil packs removed? It just may pop that sucker out. Of course you'll need something or someone to catch the socket/plug so you don't do any additional damage. I've done this once or twice over the years with success. Good luck.

 

I bought a new black clip, it was an exact match. I just can't get this red clip to clip in anyway that is secure. Do you guys have any ideas?

 

I stopped using detachable plug sockets sevetal years ago. See picture. Using this type allows access without miving fuel rails.

On my E150, I remove the front seats to provide better access. Always soak the plug wells with pb blaster or similar before trying to remove the plugs

 

Today I got the fuel line disconnected, fuel rails off and got the #8 spark plug out. Went to do the compression test and now my vehicle won't start. Seems to be a car with a lock symbol on the dash. Somehow I triggered some sort of anti-theft protection? OBD2 connections are now completely cut so I can't get any information. 8 hours so far and I've managed to do a compression test on 4 cylinders...what a horrible experience this has been.

I'd appreciate any help. I have no idea what is going on.

Edit : The vehicle just has a low tech / all metal key