A 2010 should have a coded key.

Were you ever permitted to start the engine with only that metal key ?

 

Yes, I'd estimate for about 10 years.

 

Is there any type black plastic covering on the key ? If so. It is a coded key.

Keys need to be coded to the vehicle and special tool is required to do that. Some locksmiths with security clearance can access as built info and code new keys.

Need some answers before going further..

 

I have two keys, the silver/all metal one I've used for the last 6 years without issue. Since I inherited this vehicle from my father. The black one I just tested and it has the same issue. Key lights up dash but no turn over at all, lots of lights but a quick flashing little car with a lock on it. Maybe this isn't anything to do with the anti-theft stuff....I don't know.

I was able to compression test cylinders 2,3 and 4 without issue. I got stuck on cylinder 8 as I said before, so I took off the fuel rails, some of the emissions/throttle body stuff, the seats and the alternator came off to get to the fuel rails easier. I think I have all that plugged back in properly (after I ran into the issue) but I'm assuming its something to do with that.

 

lock symbol on the dashboard of a 2010 Ford E150 indicates the SecuriLock anti-theft system is active, preventing the engine from starting. This can be caused by a dead key fob battery, a damaged key, or an issue with the vehicle's immobilizer system. To fix this, try using a spare key, replacing the key fob battery, or performing a reset by disconnecting the car battery for 30 minutes.
Potential causes

• Key fob battery: A low or dead battery in your key fob can cause the system to not recognize the key.
• Damaged key or immobilizer: The transponder chip in the key or the antenna around the ignition switch may be damaged or malfunctioning.
• Vehicle battery: A weak or dead vehicle battery can sometimes interfere with the anti-theft system.
• Faulty immobilizer/computer: Less commonly, the problem could be a faulty Body Control Module (BCM) or other computer-related issue.

Troubleshooting steps

1. Use a spare key: If you have one, try using a different key to start the vehicle, as the problem might be with the key itself.
2. Replace the key fob battery: If you are using the key fob, try replacing the battery.
3. Perform a hard reset: Disconnect both the positive and negative battery cables, touch the cables together for 60 seconds to discharge any residual power, and then reconnect them after about 30 minutes.
4. Check the ignition: Try turning the physical key in the ignition to the accessory position (just before starting) to see if the light turns off.
5. Professional diagnosis: If the above steps don't work, a professional mechanic can run a diagnostic scan to check for specific codes, inspect the immobilizer components, or reprogram the keys.

 

I just don't think its coincidence this occured when I was working on my engine. My key doesn't have a battery and I already tried to use the spare. I did a hard reset and nothing changed. The ignition key lights up the dash no problem. I don't have money for have this towed never mind all the diagnostic/repair costs a shop will charge.

 

In the pix you posted, the key with the black covering IS A CODED KEY. Now, if that key loses it's coding , you will never get it to start the vehicle.

The key with no plastic will open doors and may turn the ign sw, BUT will never start the engine. Why,,,,,,,, it can't satisfy the security system.

There is no way you were able ,if the security system is working, get the engine to run.. The security system controls the PCM (computer) that controls fuel and ignition .

If you use the coded key and attempt to start the engine and it doesn't start,
The key may have lost it;s coding or if the starter does operate, you need to verify fuel and spark are available..
You have 2 choices if you don't have another coded working key.
You will have to call a qualified locksmith to make and code 2 working keys, or call a dealership to do that . The locksmith is usually is less costly.

IF you have 2 WORKING keys , you can code up to 8 addl keys yourself . Don't forget they have to be the type with the black plastic coating.The chip is inside there..

 

I've used that all metal key for 6 years without issue.I don't know what to say...my dad bought the vehicle used about 10 years ago. Maybe they did something to the system to allow it.I'm not clear why the key code would have been lost. The starter doesn't operate/nothing happens when I turn the key to start position.

I appreciate your help and time. Thank you.

 

I just checked and it turns out I have two black keys. I also didn't disconnect the positive terminal when I disconnected the battery, so I did that, held the leads together for 60 seconds and will leave it disconnected. I'll test again tomorrow morning. If that doesn't work I guess I'm going to reassemble it everything.

 

Turns out the anti-theft was being triggered by me removing fuse 54 (Fuel pump relay coil). I did a compression test on all cylinders...all got 150ish except cylinders 5+6 which got 110...which were the ones that had the most gunk (coolant dried up) in them. Is this acceptable numbers? Anything I can do about it? I'm not keen on doing an engine engine teardown..haha. My plan is to pull the intake and inspect it for cracks/leaks next. Will keep you update.

Thanks for the help everyone.