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302 engine suddenly dies, why?

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Old Nov 10, 2020 | 07:28 PM
  #1  
Welderguy's Avatar
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From: NC, USA
Default 302 engine suddenly dies, why?

My 1989 e150 WITH 302 AND DUAL TANKS. has started an issue where, the engine starts fine from being cold. gets up and goes! like nothing is holding it back! Acceleration is fantastic! Then, when the engine temp begins to rise and reaches the first 'white line' on the dash's temp gauge, the engine will suddenly and completely, die! Engine will crank over, but will not restart, and it has been observed that white smoke comes from the exhaust pipe while engine is cranking over. ( un-burnt fuel) the engine will restart after an hour or two of just sitting. (cooling down)

Has any one else experienced this before? Have you a solution?

I have been experiencing this issue , and trying to resolve it for a month now. and have found no solution.

Help!

What I have discovered so far from testing is: I hear the fuel pumps start when I turn the ignition key. I replaced the inline fuel filter in Aug of 2020. That made no improvement. There is fuel pump pressure, I hear the pumps, and the engine starts up easily from a cold start.

In Aug. of 2020, I replaced the ignition modal that is on the outside of the distributor, with a brand new one from Auto zone. This has not made any improvements.

I am now wondering and concerned that maybe the culprit is the ignition pick up unit, that is inside the distributor?? Maybe it is failing? How to test it?
Could cause be a faulty 'mass air flow sensor'? Does the vehicle have one of those?
I greatly appreciate your help!
 

Last edited by Welderguy; Nov 10, 2020 at 07:36 PM.
Old Dec 28, 2020 | 08:40 PM
  #2  
Dexter Morgan's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 11
Default 302 v8 Problems

My old 1987 E-250 with 302 would do that and it turned out to be a loose connection on the main fuel pump on the driver's side around the door location.
For some reason, like yours, it wouldn't do it when cold and it too had to cool down before it would start again.

I did have my "MAP" sensor go bananas once and it acted like plug wires were crossed. It would barley run as it spit, coughed and sputtered. That was an easy fix after I figured out what the problem was.
It's on the passenger side up top back by the hood hinge. Super easy to change and only about $30.

Let me give a heads-up about these engines that drove me nuts on a road trip. I put cap and new plug wires on it before leaving and every time I started to pull a hill it would start missing.
Long story short ... it turned out that the back two driver's side cylinders can't have the wires running next to each other without getting electromagnetic induction causing the rear cylinder to fire prematurely and burning the electrodes off of its spark plug.
I went through hell and back before figuring that one out.
Good luck.
 

Last edited by Dexter Morgan; Dec 28, 2020 at 08:49 PM.
Old Dec 29, 2020 | 08:45 AM
  #3  
hanky's Avatar
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 16,584
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This is the way you prevent that problem on the older engines.

Write down the firing order of the cylinders.
For example:
1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
The plug wires for cyls 6&5 should be separated and not at any place run next to and parallel to one another.
There was also a problem with one of the firing orders that had cyls 7&8 fire in that order. Those wires had to be separated when installed so they could not induce current in the adjacent wire.
Starter housings were actually fractured by this problem. .
Never thought we would see this problem again, been a while. Thank Goodness it was only in the older engines.
 
Old Dec 31, 2020 | 10:07 PM
  #4  
Dexter Morgan's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 11
Default Parallel plug wires

Originally Posted by hanky
This is the way you prevent that problem on the older engines.

Write down the firing order of the cylinders.
For example:
1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
The plug wires for cyls 6&5 should be separated and not at any place run next to and parallel to one another.
There was also a problem with one of the firing orders that had cyls 7&8 fire in that order. Those wires had to be separated when installed so they could not induce current in the adjacent wire.
Starter housings were actually fractured by this problem. .
Never thought we would see this problem again, been a while. Thank Goodness it was only in the older engines.


Yeah, this was the #7&8 cylinders that had the wires running parallel. I had never heard of that problem before. Live and learn I guess.
 
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