Just turn the key, 2 or 3 seconds later it starts first time every time. UNTIL, 2 weeks ago. Turned the key, it fired on a few cylinders and then just dead cranked, no start. It happened so sudden that I was sure it had to be electrical or electronic. Thought I found the problem right away. In checking the ignition wires I found the coil wire to the distributor cap was corroded at the cap. Replaced the cap, rotor and plug wires. Started right up. Idle was high, but I thought it might need to relearn something. HOWEVER, it would not restart, just crank, and crank. So, replaced coil and Ignition Module. Started right up. Idle a little lower. Put it in gear and it wanted to stall, but was able to keep it running playing with the pedal. Would not restart unless I pushed pedal to the floor for a few seconds and then played with the pedal to clear out what seemed like a flooded condition, then it idles pretty good. When it goes back in gear, same thing all over again. Vacuum lines seem OK, all sensor plugs tight.... Where do I look next. It seems like a fuel problem, or maybe a sensor.........Any help would be appreciated.. Thanks ahead of time

Its an old van I know, I just can't put the pistol to her

 

Did you notice if you were getting lot of black smoke out the exhaust? Check the tail pipe, if it is full of black soot there is a good possibility the fuel pressure regulator has gone south. The regulator is located on the fuel rail and has a vacuum line connected to the top of it. If you remove the vacuum line and fuel comes out or it has fuel in it the regulator is defective and would need to be replaced. You may need to remove the doghouse to gain access to the regulator which is secured with allenhead screws.It should be at the rear of the engine on top toward the driver's side.

 

Thanks for the reply hanky,
I just checked the tailpipe and it is very sooty. No black smoke coming from tailpipe, but I did notice when it was running a lot of black water came out, and a bad smell. I checked the vacuum line to the fuel regulator and no gas or gas smell. If you think the fuel regulator is a good place to start I can replace it and the fuel filter too. Filter has probably 80,000 miles on it.
Thanks again for your help............Allan

 

The better way to check the regulator is with a fuel pressure gauge , but I would not suggest replacing it yet. The soot is most likely from an overfuel condition. If it smells like rotten eggs that usually means the converter can't completely clean up the exhaust.
If the smell is different from that it could be an antifreeze leak into one of the cyls. Is it using any coolant? Always a good move to replace the fuel filter.
Can you remove some of the spark plugs and note if all are black and sooty or any are cleaner than the rest? Just to touch all the bases , what about the air filter ? Did you purchase gas and a short time later the problem appeared? When you replace the fuel filter and drain it does a lot of water come out?
If you are not sure when replacing the fuel filter, first remove the fuel pump fuse , then run the engine to remove the pressure in the fuel line , then you can remove the fuel lines with a special tool to release the retainers.

 

Thanks again Hanky,
It all came back to me this morning when I tried to change the fuel filter. I tried 80,000 miles ago and couldn't get it to unlock , and since the truck was running good, I gave up. No telling how many miles on the filter. I bought it with 82,000 miles on it, and it has 218,000 now ,with no filter change. I am guessing the retaining clips are messed up inside the coupling. I see once you can get the filter off you can replace the bail clips. BUT how to get the filter off. There is no fluid loss and the plugs are good. Was using gas from a full tank for weeks before issue started. Pulled fuse from pump and removed pressure before trying to remove filter.................
I sure appreciate your replies hanky...........Allan

 

OK, this is how to remove the fuel lines.
First you need to go to an auto supply store and tell them what you need to do. There are some metal and some plastic fuel line release tools. Of course the plastic is cheaper and will suffice for a few uses, however, the metal ones are easier to use and rarely give any trouble. Once you see the tool you will see the procedure right away. Pull the filter down out of the holding clamp ,Insert the release tool over the line and press it in as far as it will go and then pull the line off with the tool holding the retaining fingers compressed. Expect to get a short fuel bath in spite of releasing the pressure, have a rag handy to catch the dripping fuel. Do the same with the other end of the filter. There are "O" rings in the tubing ends, make sure they don't come out .
To install the ends (make sure you have the filter arrow pointing to the front of the vehicle) just slide them back on to the filter and you will hear the fingers lock on to the filter end. Then press the filter back into the holder and check for any leaks after you start the engine. Should be no leaks then you're done.

 

Thanks Hanky I have used the plastic removal tool that came with the filter the first time I tried to remove the filter, no go. I went and bought the tool, no go. That's
why it didn't get changed 80,000 miles ago. Today I sprayed the fittings with WD 40 moved it in and out, sprayed it again put the tool in, some of the clips seem to be
releasing but not all. I made a tool out of a sharpie pen cap, it seemed a little better, but still no release. If one or more of them teeth is bent, will it ever release. Probably no solution but to force it and hope for the best ..... Man, I would say this truck is driving me to drink, but it's not drivable, clad I have something at the house.

I see how many posts you have done, that's amazing................thanks again for trying to help an old man with an old truck....Allan

 

The quick disconnects couplings were a good collection point for dirt/debris. Spraying penetrant, ,,good!,, blowing out the connectors with compressed air and more spray, even better.

The inner spring clip,,, really wont matter if slightly bent since the tool pushes the legs out of the way for the fuel lines crimped rib to pass by. Unless the clip is twisted/destroyed or heavy rusted,,, what helps is to 'keep' pressure against the release "tool to connector" and 'gently' rotate the line head and tool as you pull back. A rocking/twisting motion helps on some. A inexpensive tool like the ones pictured work much better then the nylon (although nylon do ok) since some of the cheaper nylon/plastic release tools may not extend into the connector well enough, or be a more precise solid slip fit to gain a full release.

Did you do a fuel Pressure/Volume test at the rail before considering the filter? If you think its being over fueled, excessive black tail emissions, then chances are its flowing fuel. Good quality, un-polluted clean fuel needs to be verified. If attempting to clear a flood helps with a start, may not be a flow delivery issue.

'WELL' beyond the filter service interval for sure, but may not be cause. Generally a restricted filter isn't going to cause an instant issue, and more often develops as a flat throttle under steep gas pedal angles with high fuel demand on steep grades and loads. With a restricted filter, a few (or more 'key cycles' should produce a start, maybe a short one, but a start. Pump, there's a possibility too, but doesn't explain excessive emissions if present. Fuel pressure/volume measured is always a good place to start.

Using a chemical start aid used sparingly and with caution, can help rule out ignition related, base engine issues (comp, timing, cam/chain slip etc) If it fires on all 8 on the aid, then it leaves you with fuel delivery. That said,, polluted fuel could damage injectors, plugged, stuck or hung open, causing a rough, no start, misfire and excessive tail emissions. so could engine/fuel management PCM drop outs etc.

A filter change,, good,,, without the option of testing at the rail (?) might be a good time to at the very least check for a sufficient volume at the filter outlet during the change.. Check engine light ever come on prior to the issues you've got now?

 

Hello Hayapower ,

Thanks for joining the fray,
I put changing the fuel filter on the back burner for now, and proceeded to check the fuel pressure area. With the engine off and the key on, it pumped up to 40 psi and held for at least 15 min until I started it. With the engine on it idled at about 32 psi, with vacuum line off fuel regulator, it jumped up to 40 psi. Vacuum line on and popping the accelerator it jumped to 40 psi, with slow acceleration it went to 32-33 psi. I do get a check engine light, but it goes out the next time I start the truck. It was getting harder and harder to start , so since its ben awhile since I changed the plugs, I replaced them too, even the real hard two. Seems like it made a difference temporarily, but when I shut it off it would not start unless I held the pedal to the floor, and then cleared out a rough running condition. It seems to have a hesitation on acceleration. The diagnostic system is the EEC-IV, the auto parts stores don't have the ability to read the code. My check engine light does not flash, it only stays lit for awhile. One other thing I did when this all started, I saw a video on the IAC valve as a possibility for my issue, so I took it off and cleaned it, put it back on, and it seemed better temporarily, but not really.....An old Lead Zepplin phrase says it all....Dazed and Confused...

Thanks again Hayapower and Hanky for trying to get me sorted out...............Allan

 

Ahhh.. LZ!

Your fuel pressures are within spec. ...S/B...
Key On/Engine Off 35-45 PSI
Engine Running 28-45 PSI
On a throttle snap (or line removed) vacuum drops and pressure rises, so your cruise and idle pressures may be a little less then on a snap but are still spec.

On the IAC,, at idle, and then unplugged, does the RPM drop? IAC isn't going to cause an over fuel or flood condition, but unplugging it will give you an indication if is working.

The CEL/DTC info would be a 'huge' help, TPS and MAF input for proper fuel delivery/ratio. Since the RPM's seem to range or hang, and you mention poor acceleration/hesitation, hard start, excessive emissions, testing the TPS for smooth 'ranging or sweep' might be a good start point. A TPS can cause an intermittent CEL, as well as while driving. Erratic and/or shift timing ranges off as well. Being a full throttle clears the flood, seems to indicate the sensor has a signal voltage, at least at high range,, but,,, Have a DVOM? or analog meter? Better to check it, then replace a good part