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94 E-150 5.0 Scratching my Head

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Old Jan 7, 2016 | 09:11 PM
  #11  
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Default Getting Better

Thanks HayaPower,
Well today I did unplug the IAC valve, and the RPMs did drop so I guess its working. Another thing I did was plug and unplug all my fuses and sensors, clean my battery terminals, clean the ground wire from the battery to the truck body and things are a little better. The engine starts up clean, it drops down to a good idle, it accelerates cleanly with no hesitation. I don't notice a bad smell anymore. It restarts most of the time with out having to floor the pedal. And now I have a constant check engine light on. So, getting better. Tomorrow I will try to get a code reader, I think Aotozone has the one I need for my truck for $30.00.................I think it's gotta be something small......

Thanks Again for any input ...............Allan
 
Old Jan 9, 2016 | 08:23 AM
  #12  
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OK, I got the code reader and read the owners manual and found the single wire connector was corroded, after fixing that, warmed up the engine and did the first test KOEO. I received a 116 on the fault code and a Continuous memory code of 118. According to the manual it has to do with the engine coolant sensor. Should I go ahead and replace it or could it be something else I am not thinking about?..............Allan
 
Old Jan 9, 2016 | 12:09 PM
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DTC 116 indicates that the sensor is out of self test range. Correct measurement range S/B 0.3 to 3.7 volts.

Continuous memory DTC 118 indicates that the sensor signal was greater than the self-test maximum of 4.6 volts. DTC is usually generated under normal driving conditions.

Could be a connector/connection issues, or a faulty sensor, harness etc, but if its running well now? I'd clear the codes and drive it until it will retest to see if the codes return. ECT will in part affect loop status and fuel/mixture conditions. Just not sure if you have more than one concern..
 
Old Jan 9, 2016 | 02:42 PM
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Well............... I was feeling pretty good about everything so I drove it a couple miles up to the auto parts store to pickup a coolant sensor, not a hundred percent confident, so I left it running. Came out to drive home and it stalled when I put it in gear. Could not keep it running whenever I put in gear. Could not clear black smoke coming out of the tailpipe. Tried for an hour. Would not let me drive it. Finally called Triple A, got it towed home....Going to install new coolant sensor and try again.....Allan
 
Old Jan 9, 2016 | 04:11 PM
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Hi Allan,
Just another question from out in left field.
Do you still have the fuel pressure gauge available to use? If so , try reconnecting it to the schrader port on the fuel rail and observe just what the fuel pressure does after you shut the engine off. Does it stay up there or does it drop quickly ? If it drops then I would suggest pinching off the fuel return line to the tank from the pressure regulator. If the pressure stays up now the regulator is defective. If it drops quickly there may be an injector problem where it/they are leaking down into the cyls or just allowing too much fuel. If both those tests come out OK it's Hayapower's turn !!!!
 
Old Jan 9, 2016 | 06:08 PM
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Hi Hanky.... When you turn the key and hear the pump, is it already putting fuel in the cylinders before you crank it ? It seems like it floods very quickly. I think letting the truck idle for 7-8 minutes might have started to foul the plugs. After I install this coolant sensor and retest and hopefully pass, if not left field might be a good place to
look..........Thanks Hanky.......................Allan
 
Old Jan 10, 2016 | 08:19 AM
  #17  
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Red face Unbelieveable ...................

I think everything is GOOD. After replacing the Engine Temp Sensor, I could tell right away when the engine started up strong and smooth things were much different. It's hard to believe an 18 dollar part could cause so much mayhem. After the engine warmed up I retested KOEO and got a pass on 116 , 118 stayed on even after a short drive, but I guess that will clear after driving awhile. I replaced some parts that didn't need replacing, but to be honest, the rotor, cap, plug wires and plugs did. I also replaced the Accessory Drive Belt that was split and worn. I am probably going to leave that fuel filter alone, for awhile, anyway. I was faithful in replacing the oil and filters, but since the truck was running so good I was lax on some other maintenance areas. I like my truck again.....love is going to take awhile. I hope this is finally the fix, and the can of worms is closed, stay tuned.................Special Thanks to you Hanky for starting me out on my repair...............and you HayaPower for your diagnostic help and ideas..............I will post back in a few weeks to let you know how things are going. ( I hope I am not too premature in this)...................Thanks All............Allan
 
Old Jan 10, 2016 | 11:43 AM
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Glad you solved the problem, and thanks for the update. Those 2 codes you posted, 116 and 118 are both coolant temp sensor related , wish we had them to work with earlier could have saved you a lot of extra work.
(FYI code 111 is system pass.)
 
Old Jan 25, 2016 | 01:16 PM
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Its nice to hear about you. Thanks for he update..!!
 
Old Feb 2, 2016 | 05:05 AM
  #20  
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Hi all,
Well it's been about 3 weeks since I finished the repair and all is still well. Starts first time every time within 2 or 3 seconds. Haven't messed with the gas filter yet, maybe after I finished a couple Honey Do's ....................Bye All.................Allan
 



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