When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ok, I deleted rear ac for camper conversion. AC worked flawlessly before...
-I had a shop evacuate system
-I capped the ac lines behind drivers wheel with quality caps purchased online
-looped the heater coolant lines
-removed old ac
-cut and capped all wires
-Rechardged AC to 40
NO COLD AIR
-heat works perfectly
-blower very strong
-switches from floor air to face with no issues
-the compressor is spinning
-Checked the relevant fuses i could find, no blown fuses... (would love any fuse suggestions to double check)
-so whats the deal?!!?!?
Any one have a decent line of thought for me to research? Any good guesses? Any one know the exact issue?
I have not driven the van very far, just idled it. Does it need to be driven for the refrigerant to circulate...?
You need to specify year and engine for better details.
Where did you get the amount to charge the AC to? If you removed the rear AC then the system would need a different(99% sure smaller) charge.
It wouldn't be a bad idea to hook up some AC guages to watch the pressure.
The compressor always spins, there is a clutch the engages the compressor when more pressure is needed.
You might want to check with a company that does rear conversions like what you did since they may deal with this a bit more often.
You need to specify year and engine for better details.
Where did you get the amount to charge the AC to? If you removed the rear AC then the system would need a different(99% sure smaller) charge.
It wouldn't be a bad idea to hook up some AC guages to watch the pressure.
The compressor always spins, there is a clutch the engages the compressor when more pressure is needed.
You might want to check with a company that does rear conversions like what you did since they may deal with this a bit more often.
2005 ford e-350 xlt super duty v10 6.8L
Front pannel instructions state 40psi for single system 60psi for dual
gauge that came with kit states 40
The clutch appears to not be spinning... All fuses and relays check out and it move if I touch it with my fingers...
Heres the wiring diagrams I believe you will need.
The PCM looks for a signal to get through both AC pressure switches to indicate when the AC clutch should be turned on and off.
The PCM provides a ground to the AC clutch relay thus activating the AC compressor clutch.
You could jump out the relay clutch pins 3 & 5 to see if the clutch engages or not, only do that for a few seconds with the engine running though.
It wouldnt be a bad idea to disconnect and reconnect both pressure switches to make sure they are secured.
Deleted Rear AC
