I have added to the collection a 2001 E150 XL. 4.6, 2WD, 85K on the clock. I paid $2500 for it. I am the 3rd owner. The van originally belonged to Lehigh County Corrections, has bars on all the windows, no door handles in the back, and was likely a prisoner transport vehicle. I've got a bunch of Ford stuff, a few Rangers, a Grand Marquis, Bronco, F150, but this is the first van that I've pulled the trigger on. Brought it home, and I'm currently running through the maintenance on it. Fresh filters and fluids, plugs, grease job, all that fun stuff. Just had a few questions about things that I'm not real familiar with.

1st, when I drained the coolant, the stuff that came out was not the color I was expecting. My Haynes book says it takes regular green stuff in the recommended fluids section. That definitely isn't what came out. Should I just switch it to green stuff or does this need special coolant for some reason?

2nd, for the rear diff, the Haynes book calls for 80W-90 in the 8.8, but the tag on the diff says to use 75W-140. Why the discrepancy? Also, at the bottom of the page, it says," *For Traction-Lok axles add friction modifier when lubricant is changed. ... Ford 8.8 and 9.75 inch add 4 oz."
How do I tell if I need to do this or not, and where do I find it if I do need it?
Forgive me if these are dumb questions, but I've never had any of my old junk call for additives in the diff, and they all just used regular green coolant.

Any other tips or tricks are always helpful, and as always, any and all help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,

Art

 

Hi Art,

Different folks have different opinions so you can choose which answer you like most.

There are several types of anti freeze coolant and depending on which you prefer you can try them.

One problem from Green anti freeze was called solder bloom another was sometimes it would crystalize and destroy seals.

I would suggest you read up on the various types and choose what you feel serves you best.

The 75/140 is a synthetic lube and if the vehicle had that in it ,best to stay with that.
Certain differentials call for a friction modifier to be added. That is usually available at most auto supply stores
You can check the lube level at the side plug and if it appears clean, Think about changing it after 100,000 miles. Since there is no drain plug, the differential cover has to be removed. You will need some RTV in a tube to apply where in the past gaskets were used.

Take your time and read as much as you can and you should be just fine.

 

If you do not have a Traction-Lok differential, you do not need to add a friction modifier. Go with 75w-140 as the tag states.

You can easily tell if you have one by first jacking up the rear end with the wheels off the ground. Spin one wheel by hand while observing the other side.With a standard differential, the wheel will spin easily and the other side will spin in the opposite direction. To spin the wheel by hand on a traction lok will require more effort and the other wheel will spin in the same direction.

I would change the lube now with your other lubricants. You can either remove the cover or use a sunction gun to remove the gear oil from the fill hole .If the cover doesn't leak, I always used a suction gun with good results.

I would use what your owners manual recommends for coolant not what the Haynes manual states. You don't want to mix different coolants.It would be best to flush out all the old stuff and then refill. If you don't have an owner's manual, you can download one for free.
https://www.fleet.ford.com/parts-ser...owner-manuals/

 

I found out that the door tag has an axle code which indicates that I do not have a Traction-Lok differential. Apparently it has 3.55 gearing in it according to said axle code.
I already have the cover off, wanted to have a peek in there anyways.
Check out what come out of the radiator drain...

My Haynes book does have an asterisk in the cooling system servicing section that reads, "Beginning in 2001, some models are equipped with red, long life coolant. Do not mix green-colored ethylene glycol coolant and red-colored coolant because doing so will damage the cooling system. Read the warning label in the engine compartment for additional information."

Not sure if this could've been the red coolant they were referring to.

 

Anyone ever put in one of those aftermarket trans drain plugs? I feel like every time I've had to pull a pan to change a filter it ends up being a mess. At least I put down cardboard this time. Seems like it would be smarter to install one of those to drain it down before taking the pan loose.

 

I replaced my pan with one having a drain plug on my 4R70W transmission. The new pan was actually a little thicker and added about an extra 3/4 of a quart to the overall capacity. I didn't like the idea of installing just a drain plug on the original pan.It sure makes a messy job a lot easier and cleaner.

 

Changing fluid only is doing only half the job. The other half is replacing the filter.

A drain plug will help make the total job easier, however, and reduce the chance of a big mess.

 

I did pick up a Dorman pan that came with a drain plug after reading this. Definitely better than the aftermarket plug kits. Seems like an upgrade from the stock pan, anyway.

 

I did change the filter as well while I had the pan off. The seal was pretty stuck in there but managed to get it out.