My poor old van is up to it again. In the spring I suffered through changing the plugs and some coils. And I changed out one of the O2 sensors. Everything was fine for about 6 weeks when I got a check engine light again. It was the other front O2 sensor. I cleared it and it didn't show that code again.
But for the past few tanks of gas I was getting very poor mileage! So I just assumed it was that second sensor screwing things up. I replaced it. Things seemed OK afterwards. But after about a week I get a check engine light again. This time it's P2195.
I also got myself a BlueDriver to check things with. The MAS seems to work properly. So tomorrow I guess I'll try to find a vacuum leak.

The van develops a shimmy at 110 KMs which I was thinking was tires out of balance. But I tried driving while watching the trims once I get up to speed the trim numbers seem to alternate from plus 3.5 to 0 while the other is doing the exact opposite! While idling they seem to sit where they should hovering around 0. And then I rev the engine and they seem to much more steady then when driving it. Could it have something to do with bouncing down the road
What else should I be looking for? Is there a way to tell if the O2 sensor I just put in is actually working properly?

Any ideas?

Thanks
Menessis

 

Don't know if your tool will provide data stream info, if so, please provide the info so we can see what is going on,thanks..

 

After replacing o2 sensors (for ANY vehicles) you should reset A/F adaptation. To cheapest scanner that can do it is Foxwell NT510 Elite. In fact it's the best scanner for ford if yours is 2005-UP because of bidirectional support and active tests and it can also retrieve all (even ford's specific) DTCs. The price for Innova 5610 is double of NT510 Elite but way less superior than NT510 Elite with fewer DTCs and functionalities. Why 2005-UP because older OBD2 vehicles from 1996 have fewer modules, less bidirectional support because the vehicle itself doesn't use modules for everything, so the newer model year, the better.
Back to A/F reset, some people say you can reset it by disconnecting the battery ground for an hour or so but that's not a reliable way to reset A/F but you can try. Please also note that after a A/F adaptation reset, it will also reset I/M readiness if you need emission test pretty soon, then don't reset A/F. Additionally, after A/F reset it's normal to have check engine light and lack of power or limp mode during a fresh relearn stage. After a couple of drive cycles if you see no improvement, reset again, but this time you reset A/F adaptation first, then followed by throttle body adaptation.
From your previous thread I suggested you to run a cycle of berryman 2611, have you done that yet?

You have BlueDriver so why don't you send us some screenshots here. Bring the vehicle in operating temperature and while idling and after it's settle, at least send us some STFT and LTFT on both banks, and the o2 voltage.

 

OK I couldn't do anything with the van today. But when I got home I took these 3 screen shots. Maybe a minute apart from each other at idle. These numbers are all over the place!
The Van is a 2010 Ford E-150 with 429000 kms (Canada ay)
And I didn't do the berryman 2611, I think I couldn't find the product at the time.

 

What is the engine size?
You need to capture the LTFT on both banks, you also need to get the B1S2 and B2S2.
LTFT is far more important than STFT. LTFT is to adjust, store, accumulate,and hide all the underlying issues. Ideally you want both LTFTs to be the same and closer to zero like 0.1 on bank1 and 0.2 on bank 2. Something like -3 on B1 and -6 on B2 is still acceptable. If you get -8 and -15 then it's very bad. After a A/F adaptation reset, LTFTs will reset to 0, and that's when all the previously hidden issues masked by LTFT are revealing to you with a fresh start.

So before A/F reset, try your best to fix or replace and observe all the DTCs. After the reset and drive cycle, observe the new and old DTCs.
To reset throttle body adaptation, you can disconnect battery ground for an hour or so, but to reset A/F adaptation you will more than likely need a capable scanner because throttle body stores data in KAM (disconnect battery ground works) but most PCM store the A/F data in non-volatile memory so you need a capable scanner to reset that. To find out whether or not your PCM stores data KAM, simply check on the LTFT next time you disconnect the battery for an hour or so, if they get reset to zero, then you do not need NT510 Elite to perform A/F adaptation reset.

 

I forgot to say that the MAF was not showing zero while the engine was off.

 

It's 4.6l engine

 

Can you get your tool to show o2 volts instead of ma ?

Also need RPM values ,

So far looks like a problem with bank 1 unusually high fuel trim.maybe unmeasured air or questionable injector/function.

 

My alldata software covers up to 2007 so all diagrams/PDFs below are from a 07 E-150 4.6L.



You said your MAF rate got non-zero when engine is off, that's fine. Look at the 2 diagrams above, pin-6 (red) of your MAF gets power when key is in ON/RUN/START position.



You have 4.6L you should get 4 to 5 g/s, you have 4.27, 3.88 and 3.82. Altitude matters say you are at 1000 (from sea level) 3.82 g/s is fine. If you are at 200 altitude at 3.82 is a little bit low but it's still within spec.
If your engine doesn't stall while driving, you shouldn't worry about your MAF.
If you are curious you can unplug the 6-pin electrical connector of your MAF, then start it up and drive and observe its reading from your BlueDriver.

 

Your O2SB2S1 with 0.016mA that's way too low, I think you have a wiring problem (check all) more than the issue with your sensor itself. Need to see your B1S2 and B2S2.