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MAF malfunction on 96 e150 econoline 5.8 liter

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  #1  
Old 12-30-2023, 03:28 AM
Teressa's Avatar
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Default MAF malfunction on 96 e150 econoline 5.8 liter

Can the MAF be cleaned on a 1996 e150, 5.8 liter engine? Was able to carefully scrape deposits off filaments on a Ford explorer, made big difference. Never tried on my van. Has 238, 000 miles. Code came back bank po102 n 171 n 174 on bank 2 MAF. Rough idle, poor gas mileage. Has been maintained very well. Sensors Abt only thing not replaced. Have replaced some O2 sensors, and the ECT sensor. Possibly EGR. Where is
 
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Old 12-30-2023, 05:42 AM
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Check for vacuum leak between MAF and throttle body .
 
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Old 12-30-2023, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by hanky
Check for vacuum leak between MAF and throttle body .
Ok, I will do that. Thanks
I can't see a vacuum leak. The throttle body is on the RT side of manifold right? I hate having a van manufacturerd in 96 as so much changed in mid 96 that even my Haynes manual constantly switches midstream in ref to what engine n sensors looked like in 96 e150. Would that Haynes techbook obd 2 be useful? Anyway, love my van. Have put 238,000 mi on it with only one major repair last yr(transmission) it's been from Guatemala to Alaska, every state, but Hawaii. Off road more n most 4wd. I do my maintenance religiously. Hate it, but money dictates I do it, but all friends who were mechanically inclined have died last 6 years and even utube can't always help. You all have steered me rite when nothing else worked. I've done everything from brakes to heater core and blower to joints n so much more. Belt, hoses, radiator, and dreaded door locks. But the sensors have me stumped.

Even high compression in all 8 cyl with very little oil use. But rough idle. Very high as well. Seems to cycle. Sometimes so high could do 20 mph easy with no pedal. Other times better. Codes are 128, 115-118. No black smoke but gas mileage sucks even for old 5.8 liter. 11 -12 mpg on hwy. Has had good tuneup, no other issues but for damn rear brake lites stay on after engine shutoff. Runs battery down if I forget to put bungee cord under pedal to maintain pressure on brake pedal. Put new brake switch in, worked 2 days.

Leaving in week to drive back to McAllen, tx which is 2784 mi one way. Alone with very limited funds but mom had stroke. No option. Was hoping to resolve these 2 issues prior to heading out. Cleaned my MAF, fuel system good. PCM good. Been d/c my neg ground a lot due to brake lite. Could that mess up PCM readings? Can't remember what sensors I've replaced in last 29 years. Getting old! Think o2 sensors. Least two. EGR I think. Could this be the IAC or the TPS? Have changed the ECT, but not the sending unit sensor. Any suggestions? Sorry for length. Btw, kinda suck at using voltage meters but can try. Lol thanks, teressa 63 yr old non mechanic who loves my van)
 

Last edited by Teressa; 12-31-2023 at 12:29 PM.
  #4  
Old 12-31-2023, 01:07 PM
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Default t ! I'm desperate for wisdom n advice...patience wouldn't be underappre either

[QUOTE=Teressa;139762]Ok, I will do that. Thanks
I can't see a vacuum leak. The throttle body is on the RT side of manifold right? I hate having a van manufacturerd in 96 as so much changed in mid 96 that even my Haynes manual constantly switches midstream in ref to what engine n sensors looked like in 96 e150. Would that Haynes techbook obd 2 be useful? Anyway, love my van. Have put 238,000 mi on it with only one major repair last yr(transmission) it's been from Guatemala to Alaska, every state, but Hawaii. Off road more n most 4wd. I do my maintenance religiously. Hate it, but money dictates I do it, but all friends who were mechanically inclined have died last 6 years and even utube can't always help. You all have steered me rite when nothing else worked. I've done everything from brakes to heater core and blower to joints n so much more. Belt, hoses, radiator, and dreaded door locks. But the sensors have me stumped.

Even high compression in all 8 cyl with very little oil use. But rough idle. Very high as well. Seems to cycle. Sometimes so high could do 20 mph easy with no pedal. Other times better. Codes are 128, 115-118. No black smoke but gas mileage sucks even for old 5.8 liter. 11 -12 mpg on hwy. Has had good tuneup, no other issues but for damn rear brake lites stay on after engine shutoff. Runs battery down if I forget to put bungee cord under pedal to maintain pressure on brake pedal. Put new brake switch in, worked 2 days.

Leaving in week to drive back to McAllen, tx which is 2784 mi one way. Alone with very limited funds but mom had stroke. No option. Was hoping to resolve these 2 issues prior to heading out. Cleaned my MAF, fuel system good. PCM good. Been d/c my neg ground a lot due to brake lite. Could that mess up PCM readings? Can't remember what sensors I've replaced in last 29 years. Getting old! Think o2 sensors. Least two. EGR I think. Could this be the IAC or the TPS? Have changed the ECT, but not the sending unit sensor. Any suggestions? Sorry for length. Btw, kinda suck at using voltage meters but can try. Lol thanks, teressa 63 yr old non mechanic who loves my van)[/sorry for rambleQUOTE]
 
  #5  
Old 12-31-2023, 02:51 PM
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This is what I would suggest,
There is a hose coming off the intake manifold that goes to the vacuum brake booster.
Because I believe there is a problem inside the booster, it will require replacement.
If you can remove that hose from the booster and plug it so it cannot leak. The brake problem will still be there ,but the vacuum leak should be gone and the code should not return once cleared..
The 118 code refers to an open circuit for the coolant sensor, either defective or wire off/poor connection.
My material shows no code 115 for your vehicle. The 128 should go away with the vacuum hose to the booster blocked.
A booster is not difficult to replace , as long as you can get one.
There is a diaphram and spring inside the booster and I don't know for sure , but suspect the spring has broken and punctured the diaphram resulting in the vacuum leak and pedal not returning completely.
Either way, if hose is blocked and performance smooths out, booster is the problem.

I know you can handle this, and you have enough problems without automobile problems,
Hope all goes well with Mom, be careful and hopefully have a better new year.
 

Last edited by hanky; 12-31-2023 at 02:55 PM.
  #6  
Old 12-31-2023, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by hanky
This is what I would suggest,
There is a hose coming off the intake manifold that goes to the vacuum brake booster.
Because I believe there is a problem inside the booster, it will require replacement.
If you can remove that hose from the booster and plug it so it cannot leak. The brake problem will still be there ,but the vacuum leak should be gone and the code should not return once cleared..
The 118 code refers to an open circuit for the coolant sensor, either defective or wire off/poor connection.
My material shows no code 115 for your vehicle. The 128 should go away with the vacuum hose to the booster blocked.
A booster is not difficult to replace , as long as you can get one.
There is a diaphram and spring inside the booster and I don't know for sure , but suspect the spring has broken and punctured the diaphram resulting in the vacuum leak and pedal not returning completely.
Either way, if hose is blocked and performance smooths out, booster is the problem.

I know you can handle this, and you have enough problems without automobile problems,
Hope all goes well with Mom, be careful and hopefully have a better new year.
Thanks so much gonna go get started! Ignorant recbrake booster but gonna begin learning. Appreciate ur advice and kind words. Happy New years!
 
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