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One more below. When the fuel pump relay energizes, never forget to test for battery voltage AFTER the inertia switch at circuit 787 PK/BK wire to make sure, this tells if your inertia switch is good or bad. You can even trace further down the circuit 787 at the fuel pump module.
You said both windows stop working for no reason, so it's the power feed to the switch, not the window motor itself. So at this moment you don't need to remove the inside door panel.
1) Turn key to RUN, check fuse 21 continuity (without pulling the fuse) simply probe the 2 tiny terminals on top of the fuse, if it beeps move on to next
2) Key out, ply carefully and remove the master window switch then disconnect the connector, pull the F21 fuse, ohm meter black to left side of the fuse F21 slot, red to pin 10 master window switch connector, you should get 2ohm or less. If not, try the right side of the fuse slot. Do the same for pin 11. Just to test if the R/LB wire is bad in between.
3) Do the same but this time on the passenger window switch terminal 3. Basically circuit 170, bench testing R/LB (red / light blue) wire with the connector removed from the switch. If it's completely broken or a little break, you won't get 2ohm or less.
I'm about fuel pump There is not power in Terminal 85 and also not power in inertia switch because they connected I need first figured out what wrong with that.
Terminal 85 on your fuel pump relay should not have 12v. It gets the ground from your PCM's pin-80. It could be ground at all times or key in RUN. All you should care is the moment the relay needs to be energized, terminal 85 gets its ground needed on time.
The terminal that expects power feed is 86, the red wire, when key in RUN.
When 86 gets power, 85 gets ground, 30 connects to 87, the standard relay setup.
Non-standard, of course, you can 85 gets power, 86 gets ground, 30 connects to 87.
Per diagram above, your fuel pump relay uses the standard setup.