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New here, your help is appreciated. No crank, no start, no power | 2008 Ford E250

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  #11  
Old 01-25-2023, 11:12 PM
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Pro detailed auto information is available from ALLDATA DIY | ALLDATA, starting at <$20.00 a month and you can print/down load what you need..
 
  #12  
Old 01-26-2023, 10:33 AM
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If you would,
Would you tell us if your van stays parked outside near fields or grass?
If it does , as a lot do , mice love to chew wiring and one of their favorite places of all things is the engine compartment fuse /relay panel.

Might be a good idea to remove the negative battery cable , then take a look under the fuse relay panel, that might contain a possible answer.
If you find it had visitors, very common in urban areas.

They have been known to build nests in the intake preventing an engine from starting.
 
  #13  
Old 01-26-2023, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by hanky
If you would,
Would you tell us if your van stays parked outside near fields or grass?
If it does , as a lot do , mice love to chew wiring and one of their favorite places of all things is the engine compartment fuse /relay panel.

Might be a good idea to remove the negative battery cable , then take a look under the fuse relay panel, that might contain a possible answer.
If you find it had visitors, very common in urban areas.

They have been known to build nests in the intake preventing an engine from starting.
that funny you mentioned that. I do park outside next to a house. more like a field since the street doesn't have a walkway.
However, when i look It the harness wiring they look fine. The fuse compartment of the engine bay is difficult to see the wiring off, unless i open things up but the inner fuse box seems to be okay.

 
  #14  
Old 01-26-2023, 02:57 PM
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ok so i found some time to work on this again and when i insterted the key i noticed a red light on the cluster. It was a red car with lock. The security of the car.
I tried starting it but no crank and no start.

The engine, oil and other light did come on this time. vs before it didn't.
Since i had a security light on i let the key in the ignition for 20 min but the light was still on and no start. The down part was the batter also went low since the day running lights are activated by default
I also check the OBD and there was a constant 12.6V coming through. Again engine light was on so power was coming through this time and not before

 
  #15  
Old 01-26-2023, 07:49 PM
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If you have a second key for your vehicle, might be a good idea to try it.

It does sound like there is a concern with the security system and you could be on the right path. The simplest thing to start with is a different "working" key and see if that makes any difference.
 
  #16  
Old 01-26-2023, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by hanky
If you have a second key for your vehicle, might be a good idea to try it.

It does sound like there is a concern with the security system and you could be on the right path. The simplest thing to start with is a different "working" key and see if that makes any difference.
i'm ahead of you on that one. ive tried with four different keys, the symptoms are the same.
 
  #17  
Old 01-27-2023, 07:13 AM
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They are supposed to be "Coded working " keys, were they?
 
  #18  
Old 01-27-2023, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by hanky
They are supposed to be "Coded working " keys, were they?
the van came with few keys. i didn't code anything
 
  #19  
Old 01-27-2023, 05:17 PM
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To have keys cut and coded to your particular vehicle costs some $$$. If they were ordinary keys and not coded , they will operate the doors and ign , but not satisfy the security system..
The security system will not allow the vehicle to start if the key is not for that vehicle, not coded.
You have the option of having a tech come out to do this or have a certified locksmith come and do it. They must have the tool, and a subscription to as built info to code keys to your vehicle.
What is the anti-theft light doing when you are attempting to start the vehicle?
 
  #20  
Old 01-27-2023, 05:38 PM
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Weird stuff happens the more i play with it. After recharging the batter i connected the terminals and as expected everything reset and the engine started. Turned it off/on and it acted fine.
Today i took it for a 20 min drive and everything was okay. I turned the car off and started closing things up and when i was putting the cover of the inside fusebox on i noticed the odometer going crazy and the ignition switch box clicking between on and off.
I wanked the cables a bit, took the harness off of the ignition box and it would just do crazy things on the cluster.
I took off the plastic housing around steering wheel and looked around ignition switch and except immobilizer i don't see anything else causing an issue.
The igniton switch box does have this aluminum bar that goes between steering wheel housing which connects to ignition switch key.
Anyway, after looking around for 20 min and yanking wires around i got tired and the van wouldn't do the same thing.

problem still continues.
 


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