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Need help adjusting manual shift lever after TSS/OSS replacement

  #1  
Old 09-20-2017, 03:53 PM
Adeline Jackson's Avatar
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Default Need help adjusting manual shift lever after TSS/OSS replacement

Please help me! I've been scouring the internet and no one seems to have answers for me. I had some jerking and occasional lack of forward moment, pulled codes after a stall and check engine light. Replaced the TSS and OSS, but now my car will not shift into gear. I've tried readjusting the shift lever but no matter what I do I can not get all gears to work. I either go into neutral in all positions, or I go into reverse in D, N and L. I need to know how to properly adjust this. The manual when replacing the TSS said "disconnect cable end from manual shift lever" I did not do that because there is no instruction on HOW. I don't want to break the plastic piece. There is the tab to lock/unlock the sliding adjuster but I don't see how the whole thing could come off the lever. I've tried the lever all the way clockwise, all the way counterclockwise and have tried in between(although it moves back to clockwise when the bolt is tightened) Any help is greatly appreciated!
 
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Old 09-20-2017, 05:28 PM
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What if you were to tell us what year and model vehicle you have? Don't know if is a car, SUV or van or Pu. They are all different !
 
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Old 09-20-2017, 06:40 PM
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I'm sorry I thought I had posted it. 2008 Ford Edge. I was given this procedure(http://f01.justanswer.com.s3.amazona...e7971_edge.pdf) to adjust it, I have followed it to the T and now have forward but no reverse. All positions now locking into place with no gear shift happening in R. L does not lock in and slides up into D.
 
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Old 09-21-2017, 07:57 AM
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I don't know how much this will help you, but just for some kind of starting position.
The cable end needs to be removed from the lever on the trans.
Once off, now the lever can be moved from one extreme to the other
One end of the travel will have a definite type of lock feel when it gets to the end of the position detent, that is the park position.
As you move the lever away from park you will feel it go to the next detent position and that should be , reverse then next position in same direction of travel will be neutral. Then the next detent going in the same direction will be "D" , the following detents will be as shown on the shift indicator in the vehicle . There is usually no locking position detent for low to slide to drive.
Now that you know how to get it to the neutral position (2 detents from the park detent) when placed in the neutral position you should see a scribed line on the manual lever position switch that needs to line up with another line on the switch where it turns, or pivots. With the trans now in neutral loosen the bolts that hold the switch in place and line up the lines. Now the trans and switch should both be in the neutral position, tighten the switch mounting bolts . Now when you place the shift lever inside the vehicle in the neutral position install the cable end back on to the lever on the trans. The trans ,the switch and inside shift indicator should all be in the neutral position. You will be able to see and feel when you shift the inside shift lever to the park position. If done carefully, the vehicle should only start in either park or neutral. That's one way to accomplish this.There is a tool available to do this quicker, but you don't have the tool. If everything is done correctly the vehicle should start and be in the proper range, providing there is no problem with the trans itself.
 
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Old 09-21-2017, 09:00 AM
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I will try this. The service manual and all advice I was getting said to have the shifter in D, I'll try getting it to align in D. I think I read somewhere that in order for the computer to pick up the new sensors and program itself the car should be in N WHILE installing the new sensors. Is that correct? If so, maybe I need to take everything apart and unplug the sensors, replug them in while in N then, adjust the manual lever? I don't think it was in N when we installed them
 
  #6  
Old 09-21-2017, 12:23 PM
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It should be in neutral to line up the marks and set the SW assy.
When you are sure everything is done right , just disconnect the negative battery cable, go have a cup of coffee while leaving the lite sw on and that should erase the keep alive memory (KAM). When you're done with the coffee reconnect the cable terminal back on to the battery post , start the engine and don't touch the accelerator pedal, let it idle for a few minutes. NOTE-- never unplug any sensors with the key on!!
It will set codes and drive you nuts, plus the computer doesn't like that and,,,has ways of getting even.!
 
  #7  
Old 09-21-2017, 05:22 PM
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Ok, I've tried it this way twice now (waiting to plug battery in now, for third try) I am still going in reverse only. Drive goes in reverse, so does R and L. N is neutral. My lever does not have indication whatsoever. There is no line or mark to line up. Fluid is topped off, made sure of that. Nice three hour walk this morning to get more fluid and some supplies... I'm not sure what could be the problem here. Transmission is fine, this seems to be an adjustment issue, since a few times it did go forward, only to go back into reverse after trying the other gears.. Someone advised me to adjust at the shifter as well, which entails taking apart the inner console. Not sure if I should attempt that?
 
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Old 09-21-2017, 07:46 PM
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A mechanic neighbor came by to check it out today and he could not figure out the problem either. Adjustments are correct. Looks like tomorrow I'm spending the day once again draining and opening everything back up. Going to try re-installing the sensors and double checking every little detail as I put it all back..........Praying this resolves it. What else could it be??? Tranny was fine prior it was just the sensors.
 
  #9  
Old 09-22-2017, 02:59 AM
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First ,
I am wondering about the parts you replaced.
Where did you get them and could they be either wrong or defective ?
Sometimes the pins on the switch or the plug get messed up and the correct readings don't get to the trans controls. You may be chasing a problem that doesn't exist and missing the real problem. You could always have more than one problem and be compounding the situation by overlooking the real problem.
What were the codes you originally started with?

Many times in attempting to rectify a problem we change things and create addl problems.
 
  #10  
Old 09-22-2017, 09:28 AM
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Parts were from Autozone.

Original code was P0715
 

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