2003 Ford Escape Limited Fast idle
2003 Escape Limited 4WD with the 3.0 purchased for my son in April. High miles, 207K. Car is in pretty good shape though, and the price was good.
Problem: I am having an idle issue. No codes. When you first start it, it idles normal in the range of 500-700. As soon as you get the RPMs higher than around 2800, the idle doesn't want to come back down. It stays around 2000-3000. If you shut it off and restart, it's back to normal.
Service I've done: Had a code for EGR system when first purchased, I found the DPFE sensor to be the wrong type, and wiring was hacked. I replaced the connector and DPFE sensor, and the connector for the solenoid because that was cracked. Cleared the codes, never got a code again on it. Still had a surging idle, almost wanting to die at times. I did a whole top end service. Plugs, boots, Intake gaskets, injector O-rings, valve cover gaskets, intake and throttle body cleanout, PCV valve, new tubing to PCV valve, and a new IAC. It took care of the surging idle, but now have a high idle issue. I can manually activate the EGR valve with a brake bleeder vac pump, and the idle comes down until I release vacuum.
Trying to figure out how to diagnose this without shooting the parts cannon. I do have plenty of vacuum going to the EGR solenoid, but it doesn't seem to allow vacuum to pull the EGR valve. SO, guessing it's either the solenoid, or whatever is telling the solenoid to adjust the vacuum level?
How do I diagnose this? Would like to figure it out quickly, because the car is almost dangerous to drive, having to brake harder, and it wanting to take off at stoplights.
Problem: I am having an idle issue. No codes. When you first start it, it idles normal in the range of 500-700. As soon as you get the RPMs higher than around 2800, the idle doesn't want to come back down. It stays around 2000-3000. If you shut it off and restart, it's back to normal.
Service I've done: Had a code for EGR system when first purchased, I found the DPFE sensor to be the wrong type, and wiring was hacked. I replaced the connector and DPFE sensor, and the connector for the solenoid because that was cracked. Cleared the codes, never got a code again on it. Still had a surging idle, almost wanting to die at times. I did a whole top end service. Plugs, boots, Intake gaskets, injector O-rings, valve cover gaskets, intake and throttle body cleanout, PCV valve, new tubing to PCV valve, and a new IAC. It took care of the surging idle, but now have a high idle issue. I can manually activate the EGR valve with a brake bleeder vac pump, and the idle comes down until I release vacuum.
Trying to figure out how to diagnose this without shooting the parts cannon. I do have plenty of vacuum going to the EGR solenoid, but it doesn't seem to allow vacuum to pull the EGR valve. SO, guessing it's either the solenoid, or whatever is telling the solenoid to adjust the vacuum level?
How do I diagnose this? Would like to figure it out quickly, because the car is almost dangerous to drive, having to brake harder, and it wanting to take off at stoplights.
Last edited by besel53; Aug 24, 2021 at 11:48 AM.
No, no vacuum applied to the EGR at idle. Was just saying that there is good vacuum to the solenoid. But good point, there shouldn't be vacuum to the EGR valve at idle, even if it is high idle.
Did that. Let it sit for 10 minutes idling. Actually reset the computer twice and went through the re-learn process again.
Update: New IAC (cheapy one from amazon) was bad causing the high idle. Bought new one from Rockauto, and the idle is correct. Surges a little bit still at times, but idles pretty good considering the mileage. (208K)
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