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No P0128 is a engine temp code.
Did you resolve what the original issue was or do you have new information about diag youve completed.
I haven't fixed the initial problem. I'm just getting all of the info I can to see if there's a sensor that im not finding because I have found that every part site and part store I've checked has an ect sensor that is separate from the cht sensor. However I was told on this thread as well as 2 other threads that my cht sensor is my ect sensor as well. So if that's true then im moving on to my thermostat and replacing that which is what I've been trying to avoid. But all the info I have is leading me to believe that's what I need to do. I wanted to be absolutely certain about it though because it's a pain in the *** to do on this vehicle unfortunately
That is correct, for this engine there is only one temp sensor, the temp of the coolant is not something the PCM needs to view since it can be gauged from the cylinder head temp, the primary point of coolant is to keep the engine from overheating so if the engine starts to overheats it doesnt actually matter what temp the coolant is at since we know its not doing its job of keeping the engine from overheating.
I would watch the cooling fans when the engines running to see if they turn on and off like they should, the only time they should run continuously is if the engine starts to overheat the system does everything it can to bring the temp down.
Related question: If a CHT sensor fails and the engine is running, can that cause the engine to overheat and cause catastrophic engine damage? I.e. does the CHT sensor tell the PCM (or something else) to turn on cooling fans, or increase coolant flow or some other mechanism to cool the engine?
I ask because I changed my VCG, spark plugs, and coil packs (oil in the spark plug wells causing a few misfires, but otherwise running well) and was letting the engine warm up to then check for codes. I later discovered that the CHT sensor was damaged and threw a P1299 code. the engine started making all kinds of unhealthy noises and now won't stay running. I am about ready to pull the oil pan and look for metal chunks. Not sure what else to do.
I replaced the CHT sensor and I'm not seeing the P1299 anymore. Though I can't keep the engine running long enough to get it warm.
I haven't looked at the oil yet, that's still on the list. I'm looking for DTCs that could pinpoint the issue.
I looked over the engine and don't see any lines disconnected or showing damage. When I did the work, I replaced the coil packs, boots, and spark plugs. I don't think I wiggled the CMP when I was in there because it ran great for 15-20 minutes after the work was done. Then everything went to pot (as they say). I ran FORScan to get some live data, not sure what data I need though, and I noticed CMP and CKP are not sync'd. Does that indicate timing is off? If I did wiggle the CMP, could it take a bit of time to show up?
Is there other data I should capture to help troubleshoot?
Here are the current codes I am getting. {I think all the battery stuff is because it has been sitting too long. If I can get it started and allow it to run for a while I am sure everything will charge like it should.}
===PCM DTC P0352-FF: - Ignition Coil B primary circuit malfunction (I swapped coils 1 and 2, with no change in codes. Not sure what to do to troubleshoot this further.)
===PCM DTC P1000-FF: - OBD Systems Readiness Test Not Complete (not worried about this one)
===PCM DTC P1A10-FF: - Hybrid Powertrain Control Module - Battery Disabled
===BCM DTC P0A7D-60: - Hybrid Battery Pack State of Charge Low
===BCM DTC P0A1F-60: - Battery Energy Control Module
===GEM DTC B1304-20: - Accessory delay relay circuit failure
===GEM DTC B1342-60: - MODULE DEFECTIVE
===GEM DTC B106E-20: - Solid State Driver Disabled Due To Short Circuit
I am no longer seeing PCM DTC P0106-FF: - MAP circuit range/performance problem or PCM DTC P0340-FF: - CMP sensor circuit fault,
I think I need to trouble shoot the P0352 and the no sync between CMP and CKP. Help!
