Hi, I'm new to the forum and I bought a used 2008 Ford Escape XLT 4WD 3.0 V6 automatic. Everything on my Escaped worked up til a month ago. I was using the cruise control and hit the break and it shut off, I got to my destination, shut my Escape off and when I got back in and back on the hwy, the cruise no longer engages. I changed out the cruise control cut out switch (above the brake pedal) and it still doesn't work. The fuse in the kick panel on the passenger side of the middle console are good. The ones in the fuse box under the hood are the black diode fuses so I can't see if they are blown or not. the cable is good, freely moves back and forth, the cruise control actuator seems to be good, the connector to it is all in good shape, I'm at a loose.. Any suggestions?

 

48 views on this and no suggestions or thoughts? WOW!

 

Hanky, thank you for responding! As a female I sometimes am taken as a joke or ignored when I go on these forums.

When you say "just replace it !" Are you talking about the whole master cylinder or just the pressure switch on the master cylinder?

 

Hi Hiedi, Welcome aboard..

Yeah,, been busy, sorry about the response lag..

Usually when the Speed Control stops working checking what you already have as well as the pressure/deactivation switch like Hanky mentioned is generally the first step.
The pressure switch is a redundancy braking/cruise cancel component along with the brake peddle position switch. If you have a 12v continuity light (?) you can test for 12v at 'AND' ' through (brake applied to test switches actively closing) the deactivation switch prior to replacing. Same with the brake peddle switch but you'll loose stop lamps/shift lock when the peddle switch fails.. Checking at the switch connectors will prove out Fuse/circuit protection and power distribution out to the components, and the component itself. Basically, on/off functions checks.

Early on, the pressure switches would bleed fluid and cause the connector to corrode or burn, not so much with later model systems.

The brake peddle peddle switch harness sometimes will break the wire from flexing over time, but again, you'd loose brake lamp function and shift lock as well.

Checking the switch/s, fuses (Smart Junction Box-SJB) F33-10amp, F2-15amp, F34-5amp and in the Battery Junction Box (BJB) F35-10amp.. Of course it could be a steering wheel switch fail, or the clock spring, possible the servo. Checking what you can, posting the specific results we may be able pinpoint the cause or prove out what it's 'not. .

Most often if a fuse is the cause, there's a reason it let go. Testing for an 'open' in the clock spring and good steering wheel switch functions requires a DVOM.. Do you have a Digital Volt Ohm meter?

 

Thank You Hayapower...

This is what I've done so far.-
1) checked the fuses inside the vehicle and under the hood, none are blown.
2) switched out the brake cruise control deactivation switch (above the brake pedal).
3) checked the Ohm's to the the fuse spots in the vehicle and under the hood, all came back as it should have.
4) checked the Ohm's to the connector (wire harness) to the actuator and it all came back as it should.
5) before I touched anything and after each thing I tested, I tried doing the "holding the off while turning the key to the on position, then resume, cst and off" and the light on the dash flashed after each button that was pressed, which is suppose to be a self test or something? AFTER I changed out the brake deactivation switch (above the brake pedal) I tried the test again and when I let go of the off the dash light went off and didn't flash/come on when I pressed the other 3 buttons. (edit- apparently I did the self test wrong..... it's press off turn key to the on position then press ON then RESUME then COAST & SET"... UGH I pressed them in the wrong order.. going to rest that right now...)

I have not checked the pressure one yet (on the master cylinder) honestly, didn't even think about that one... The controls on the steering wheel (mine only has the cruise control, not the phone/radio on it) I was wondering if something there shorted out/broke but I have NO clue how to even check that or the fact how to remove it. I watched a video that there is no tools needed, but a whole lot of elbow grease/power to pop it out? Is the pressure one a removable piece on the master cylinder or do I have to replace the whole metal part of the master cylinder??

Sorry if this doesn't make much sense, I'm just trying to remember what all I've checked and haven't checked and it's really got me aggravated.. .UGH :'(

 

Update-
Went out and did the self test. I pressed the off and turned the key to the on position, light on the dash came on, I then pressed on and the light on the dash came on again. I then pressed resume and NO light, then I pressed cost and NO light, then set and again, NO light.. Would this test that the steering wheel controls bad/broken?

I found a youtube video showing on the 08-12 Ford Escape (mine is a 08) that the steering wheel controls, for the cruise and radio/phone just pop in and out and have a electrical connector that plugs into it...?

Other things that I've checked too-
1) I have brake lights, even the top center one.
2) I have a horn.
3) The cruise control indication light on the dash DOES come on when you self test, but on off and on it lights up, not through the other 3 buttons through the test.
4) My speedometer works and is correct to the speed of the vehicle to the reading on the cluster gauge (speedometer).
5) No airbag lights are on with a warning chime, but does if you start it and not buckle your seatbelt, the icon on the cluster stays on and it chimes until you click your seat belt.
6) I checked the brake pedal and it appears to be positioned correctly and so does the brake light switch and cruise control switch (both above the brake pedal). There is no visible broken line, no damage to the plug ins, no dirt, grease, gunk at the connections. Brake pedal is accurately hitting both switched when the brake is pressed.

 

Self test..

Holding OFF, quickly cycle the key from RUN-to OFF-to-RUN should get you a speed control indicator lamp flash 'once' indication diagnostic mode entry. Release the OFF button,, If 5 additional flashes are displayed, there's a problem in the system.

While in diagnostic mode,
Firmly Pressing,, ON, RESUME, COAST, SET+ all within 1 second of each other.

You should see a 'single' lamp flash for 'each' of the button selections as long as the sequence timing is correct. As quick as the prior light flashes, move to the next in the sequence.

After a slight delay on last button selection, If there's a system concern, the system should flash dtcs 0-4

 

Hayapower I just went out and did the self test, it flashed once then I released the off and pressed the on- 1 flash, resume- 1 flash, coast- 1 flash, set- 1 flash, then there was a slight delay and the indicator light flashed 4 times... Now what?

 

Ok I found this on the web, now I'm confused.

A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the static test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.

Well mine DID flash with each button that pressed AND I got the additional 4 flashes...

If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
2 flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
3 flashes - deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
4 flashes - vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective
Immediately (.25 second delay) after the static test, the speed control servo does a dynamic test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the dynamic throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the throttle returns to the idle position.

So now what? Mine did flash after each one was pressed AND I got 4 additional flashes... This is really confusing the hell outta me

 

Flash code 4 shows to be Trans Range Sensor to Speed Actuator fault/open..

I'll send you some tests points and connector views to your reg. email.. Think LFC #4 start about page 36..
If your able to do the checks, let me know the results.