Oh and I visually inspected the harness and the sensor (Trans Position Sensor) and neither of them are corroded nor have corrosion on them... Forgot to put that in the last message...

 

Recap,,, "I"

Ignition OFF.. (No Park Brake Applied)
1. Disconnect C122 at the actuator
2.Turn Ignition ON
3.Gear selector set to 'Neutral'
4. Measure the resistance on C122 (PIN #2 on the connector face- Green/White wire feeding that pin) to a good ground source
5.Is the resistance 'less' than 5 ohms? Yes/no. ( a yes for under 5 ohms would be an actuator concern)

Answering No,, your reading is 'more' that 5 ohms takes you to test/check "I-2"

For this test,, FULLY apply the park brake

Ignition OFF ( there's no ignition ON test function here)
1.Disconnect the trans range sensor C167
2. Gear selector set to 'Neutral'
3. This test is ONLY the component side/ range sensor itself, not the harness.
4. Matching up the connector C167 "PIN positions" to its mate on the sensor, Measure the resistance from Pin #1 to Pin #8. Pin 1 probe with the red/positive tip, and Pin 8 for the ground tip on your meter.
5. Is the resistance 'less' than 5 ohms?
If it's more than 5 ohms,, then look at test I-3 Only,, if less than 5 ohms, then I-4 is the next path to follow..
I-4 is simply,, Select gear position PARK
1. Measure resistance at the trans range 'harness side' at PIN #1 with Black/Green wire feeding the connector. Resistance is 'less' than 5 ohms? Yes/No.. Deoending on Y/N will take you back to the wires you previously checked for a possible short/open etc..

I'd be most intested in the readings you get on the range sensor pins 1 and 8.. They could quickly prove out the sensor as good/bad.

 

Ok, I'm going back out to recheck the sensor itself.. I'll be back in a few with the readings..

 

I'm to the giving up point... What setting on the meter do I want and exactly HOW am I suppose to see the pins on the actual sensor, let alone get the test probes on the right ones?

It's almost got me crying UGH GRRRRRRRRRR

 

I'm done.. I just stood out there and felt around with the prongs to the multi meter for #8(black neg probe) and #1(red positive probe) and did what you said, I got NO reading at all and I switched the dial of this damn meter to EVERY settings on ohms and got NOTHING. YES the e-brake is fully engaged, the shifter is in N and the key OFF...

I have NO clue what I'm doing wrong but I'm going to go out on a limb here and say the damn Trans Position Sensor is bad bc everything else is giving me proper reading...

OOh and the first go around that I did, I put everything back together and my check engine came on and gave me the code P0708 aka Transmission Range Sensor Circuit, high input.

OMG HELP ME!!! :'(

 

I have NO clue if they were on the right pins or not but I set the meter to 20K and I got a 1.8? ohms on the sensor itself...

 

Don't worry about the codes set, turning the key On with a component unplugged generally will set a DTC.


Being on the correct pins is important to prove out the sensor, or, you could just try another sensor if access is too hard to test.

 

That's what I thought but I hooked up the code reader to it and scanned it and erased the code.

The plug in part of the sensor, there is just enough room to disconnect the harness and pull it out, there isn't any room between the pulley and the end of the sensor where the harness plugs in, I almost got my arm stuck 2 times trying to test it.

I stuck my finger in the sensor to feel for the pins, (which they are way back in the sensor) I got the negative on one that I believe was the #8 and I took the positive one and I believe I got it on the #1 and there was no reading at all, no matter where I poked the positive at..

I believe that is what I'm going to do, just order a new sensor and switch it out...

 

Sometimes inspection mirrors and small clip type test lead extensions help where visibly and access are a challenge.. But, adding any extension or temp connection can possibly have a small affect on the read back. So, if using test leads or extensions on or for ohms tests, hook them between the meter probes and when ohms is selected read any minor values given on the screen prior to any actual testing . These values would be deducted from the values read during a test.. ohms should always zero when the test probes are married at the tips.

When you use your ohm meter for ohms or continuity etc, it's a good practice to touch the test leads together to make sure the meter 'zero's' and any reading through its own leads is minimal and that the digital read is in fact 'active'..

If you tested the trans range sensor and were on the correct pins, with an "infinity or open" reading on the meter it's possible to not see any reading or values if the circuit is lost. Like a burned out Fuse or bulb, the meter would read infinity since the connection is missing. Good reason to check, double check, the component being tested for correct circuit, and recheck the meter for an active screen and correct selection...

 

I have the multi colored 2 ended alligator clips for my meter (I made sure I bought them bc sometimes they are easier to use then the prongs) and I have a small inspection mirror. I tried using it and there is absolutely NO room to put it and to try and clip onto anything down there. The always zero out my meter before I use it.

When I used the clip, I only used it on the neg/black meter prong bc there isn't enough room to put both your hands down in there and hold both the prongs to the pins in the sensor, so I used the neg/black clip on the neg/black prong and I put it down in there and felt the pins in the meter and I do believe I had the neg/black one on the #8 pin, I had the meter set on 20K Ohms side and I put the pos/red lead prong down there and well #1 pin isn't hard to find it's the upper left corner pin and when I touched it to the pin, first time around it read like 1.? Ohms and when I removed the lead and double checked the neg/black clip it was still securely on the pin and I did it again and nothing, no reading at all.... I turned the dial on my meter to EVER Ohms selection there is and nothing, no reading..

All my fuses, relays and lights/bulbs are good. That is where I started the testing at..

1) fuses, relays
2) brake lights, all 3 work, all bulbs are good.
3) self test with the ignition key
4) brake pedal switch for the actual brake AND cruise control (which I changed out already, I'll explain in a minute.) Yes, I have 2 switches above the brake pedal.
5) speed control actuator ohms test (wire harness)
6) neutral safety switch/trans position range sensor (wire harness)
7) neutral safety switch/trans position range sensor (sensor itself)

Very FIRST thing I did was check the fuses IN the vehicle and under the hood, NONE were blown nor missing nor the wrong amp sizes. The one ones I couldn't visibly see as in if they were blown or not are the black diode ones, which are to the PCM Diode and Start Diode, which these 2 are in the fuse box under the hood. The under the hood fuse box, #33 10A* (*= mini fuse) (**= cartridge fuse) is my Reverse lamp relay, Speed Control Module, Rear Defrost relay, that fuse is good, not blown. The inside fuse box #2 15A brake on/off switch, it's good, not blown and #33 10A Speed Control Switch, it's good, not blown and #34 Speed Control Deactivation Switch/ABS is good, not blown. So then the test lead me to the self test.
When I did the first self test, when I pressed the last button the indication light for the cruise control lite up and there were NO flashes after that, which the testing procedure I was going by said to replace the "brake pedal/cruise control switch" which I have 2 of them, as I state above, the one right above the brake pedal is all black and it is for the "brake pedal/lights" then there is one above it that is for the cruise control and it's blue and white. Now, the test also said that if I had a horn then good chances are the clock spring in the steering wheel isn't bad, ok..., I have a horn, tested it. It said to apply the brake and have a 2nd person standing behind the vehicle or you and the 2nd person inside the vehicle and check to make sure your 3rd upper mounted brake light is working when depressing the brake pedal... Ok, It works as it should... So then it said 99% of the time when your cruise control fails/won't engage the brake pedal/cruise control switch is bad causing it to send a signal that the brake pedal is depressed, which will cause your cruise control to NOT engage... Ok, ordered the switch, got it, put it on, tested it, NOPE.. NO cruise control STILL.... Well that's when I all else failed and well, HERE I AM! ugh..... I have literally done EVERY test possible to try and figure this out.. The only thing I've NOT done is check/test the abs sensors at each wheel. So, what I've come up with through all this testing is 1) the trans position range sensor is bad or 2) one of my abs sensors on one of the wheels is bad..

Only part of all this that confused me to the point of giving up is, how am I suppose to get a reading off the trans sensor with the wire harness off it and the key off?? Wouldn't that throw a infinity/open reading bc there is nothing going to it??