Hayapower- As I've stated before, all my lighting inside and outside the vehicle work as they should. Even the 3rd upper brake light has several little bulbs in it and all are working properly. I know for certain that I'm not getting a code #2, so that should rule out the brake switch right?

As for the code #3, I'm going to recheck it today, make sure it is in fact code #4 that I'm getting (that little light flashes pretty quick).

The code #4, I'm going to have to take the range switch out and bench check it bc there is no room to get anything in there to make certain I'm on the #1 and #8 pins, wish there was a different way of doing it than to have to take it off, but a pulley and belt are right there so it's complicated to access...

 

Ae you sure you are checking the correct part? If I remember correctly there should be no belt or pulley near the trans range sensor.
MLPS manual lever position sw.

 

Wasn't arm wrestling over tail lights working or not,, just that during the self test an 'open' circuit/switch needs to be detected on the brake lamp circuit, and a 'closed ' circuit/switch detected on the deactivation switch without the peddle depressed.. If both are detected, no LFC for #2-3 ...

Belt/pulley?

TR, should look like

 

Hayapower- I wasn't arguing about the tail lights, sorry if it came across that way, my apologizes.

I redid the test and confirmed it does in fact give LFC #4.

All my belts are brand new and all the pulleys seem to be in good working order, no squealing, all move as they should.. (that was the 2nd thing I checked when I started this)

Yes, that is what my TR looks like and it sucks bc the radiator outlet/thermostat housing sets right on top of it, so you have to remove the battery and tray, the front part of the air filter case and unhook all the water hoses right there just to change the TR out.. UGH

 

I know it's been months since I've been here on the forum. My eldest brother has been in and out of the hospital. He's battled heart disease for over 2 decades now and Sunday Sept. 10, 2017 he lost his battle. We laid him to rest Friday Sept. 15, 2017. On top of everything going on, I suffer from a bad back and Fibromyaglia. So with that said, I've been having really bad Fibromygalia flare ups that have literally keep in bed for days at a time. But enough with that...

I was feeling pretty good Saturday, considering the last couple of months that I've had, that I thought I would go out (not to mention the weather here has been BEAUTIFUL) and start double checking everything I've done as far as the cruise control on my Escape... I got out my trusty multi meter and started under the drivers said dash. I unplugged the new cruise control brake pedal switch (the first thing I replaced), well the wire and connector on it and it read perfect, so the wire and connector was marked off the list. Second double checked the position of the plunger on the switch and to my surprise, guess what? IT WASN'T HITTING the plate that depresses it when you press the brake pedal... So, I came inside before I did anything else and researched it. Apparently there is a "special" way you have to put these in. If you depress the plunger PRIOR to putting it in the vehicle, you pretty much just ruined the switch. Thank GOD I didn't... so, I twisted it, backed it out and tried it again.. FIRST try, got it and it and before reattaching the wire/connector, I manually press the brake pedal to see if it was depressing the switch and WAH LAH! So, I plugged it back in, took it for a test drive and HEY WHAT'CHA KNOW.......... I GOT CRUISE CONTROL BACK!!!!! YA YA!!! So... For anyone out there that has lost their cruise control in a 08 Ford Escape, be VERY careful when you replace that brake pedal cruise control switch... DON'T depress or twist the plunger in it bc it won't work after that!

I took a pic of my cruise control dash light on.....


Ignore the check engine light, it's a false reading...

 

Sorry to hear of your brothers passing and your condition. Take care of yourself

Thanks for the update and glad you had a good resolve. Be interesting to run the LFC and see if and code is retrieved. What's the code for the CEL?

 

I'm sure a lot of folks have followed the communication back and forth and after so many posts , well it's almost like a family and with that, sorry for your loss and difficult to endure problems. You are tough and persistent and that has been demonstrated in your determination to get to the bottom of the problem which you did successfully. Take care, and maybe you might want to share some of the knowledge you worked so hard to learn, with others here, and thanks for the update.

 

P0420 it's a generic code it doesn't even tell me what it's for or why it's even on...

 

P0420

 

My Haynes book doesn't list the P0420 code so I have no idea.. My Escape doesn't act funny or anything. I have NO idea how to even begin to check any of that... I do know that we installed a tow package on it and while under there we had to fish the bolts and stuff through to bolt up the hitch and my exhaust and everything looks good.... It's not loud either, like a hole in the exhaust... I haven't lost any power (which I've heard will happen if the catalytic converter is bad... I also don't smell gas either.