2017 rear hatch won't open
I replaced the rear hatch actuator in my 2017 Escape. The remote closed the hatch but now it won't open. Neither the fob, the hatch button or the switch on the dash will open the hatch. I can hear a click when I try but that's it. No manual release either. How can I get the hatch open? I have a new OEM Ford actuator.
If there is excess pressure on the latch assy it cannot release..
What you might try is to push on the entire door and see if the latch will release.
You have to be pushing on the door at the same time as trying to get the latch to work.
What you might try is to push on the entire door and see if the latch will release.
You have to be pushing on the door at the same time as trying to get the latch to work.
Tried that as well as pulling on the rear door. The actuator just clicks or makes a grinding sound like the gears can't get a grip to release. Taking it to the dealer on Monday. I have a new OEM actuator I'll give them.
I replaced the rear hatch actuator in my 2017 Escape. The remote closed the hatch but now it won't open. Neither the fob, the hatch button or the switch on the dash will open the hatch. I can hear a click when I try but that's it. No manual release either. How can I get the hatch open? I have a new OEM Ford actuator.
I ended up having the dealer fix it. Unfortunately they wouldn't use the OEM part I got from another dealer in another state.even though it was about 200 bicks less. Jerks. They said they could only use the parts they provided. Anyway, it's fixed with a 2 year parts and labor warranty. Why Ford didn't make a manual release is beyond me. Seems like a real safety issue.
I ended up having the dealer fix it. Unfortunately they wouldn't use the OEM part I got from another dealer in another state.even though it was about 200 bicks less. Jerks. They said they could only use the parts they provided. Anyway, it's fixed with a 2 year parts and labor warranty. Why Ford didn't make a manual release is beyond me. Seems like a real safety issue.
That sucks! Well not to pour salt on the wound, but I thought I would put this here for the next guy. I disconnected the battery for 30 seconds and then reconnected and my trunk started working. This was with a new actuator I bought off Harfington for like 85 bucks. I was so close to breaking it apart to put the old one back on. Pulling the fuse didn't work as a reset, so don't even bother unless you think it's blown.
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