loss of antifreeze
Hi, new to the sight here. i am looking for some help. i picked up a 2013 ford escape with a 1.6L non turbo. the guy told me he got a P1299 code. i looked that up and it says coolant temp sensor. tested the sensor, it is fine. I notice it did not have antifreeze. i checked compression. i have 130-140 in the cylinders. I filled the inlet hose with water. after about 2.5 gallons, i got a little worried. the water is going somewhere. i checked the dipstick. the water was going right into the case. the whole dipstick was wet all the way up to the top. my feeling is: cracked block, bad water pump, or bad head gasket. one question is, is the water pump internal on these engines like the 3.5L. where if the water pump gasket failed it would dump coolant right into the block??
i am looking for some advice on how to find out what my problem is and what is the best way to find out. thanks in advance. kuby
i am looking for some advice on how to find out what my problem is and what is the best way to find out. thanks in advance. kuby
thanks for responding. i don't see a cylinder head temp sensor.. from what i'm reading online, some 1.6 non turbos didn't have them. the coolant temp sensor looked like it was replaced. so i am inclined to say someone changed it. i took it out and put a heat gun to the tip. put the ohm meter to it. once it got warm it closed the switch and started to read ohms. i ran my vin and i don't have any recalls. i forgot to mention that the car idles fine. i checked the plugs and they were a little black but nothing concerning.
There is a good chance that engine had overheated. When those little engines overheat the engine head becomes warped.
There you have 2 choices.
Remove the head, take to a machine shop and have it machined and straightened out or just replace the old head with a rebuilt head.
While it is opened, replace thermostat,upper and lower hoses and water pump. Of course the oil pan must be drained and new oil and filter installed.
.
There you have 2 choices.
Remove the head, take to a machine shop and have it machined and straightened out or just replace the old head with a rebuilt head.
While it is opened, replace thermostat,upper and lower hoses and water pump. Of course the oil pan must be drained and new oil and filter installed.
.
Last edited by hanky; May 17, 2025 at 07:03 AM.
thank you for the responses. is there anyway to test this before teardown? my fear is i would have a cracked or broken block. or is the block stout enough and i should not worry. or is it one of those situations where you tear it down and take the head off and you will definitely know if the head is warped (junk). thanks, kuby
The better way is to open it up and look.. Guessing can get you into trouble. .
You would not haven any problem seeing if there was a passage for that amount of coolant getting into the oil.
If you took the head to an automotive machine shop, they will magneflux it for cracks and check it with a straight edge .
The engine block is a possibility if nothing was found with the head or no visual path found between the engine and head..
We take things one at a time and avoid hasty sometimes incorrect ,expensive guesses.
You would not haven any problem seeing if there was a passage for that amount of coolant getting into the oil.
If you took the head to an automotive machine shop, they will magneflux it for cracks and check it with a straight edge .
The engine block is a possibility if nothing was found with the head or no visual path found between the engine and head..
We take things one at a time and avoid hasty sometimes incorrect ,expensive guesses.
You might consider this,
Accumulate all the parts you intend to replace, if possible.
A head gasket set, at least.
Depending on what you find, you can still reassemble the job.
Would like to know what you find, thanks.
Accumulate all the parts you intend to replace, if possible.
A head gasket set, at least.
Depending on what you find, you can still reassemble the job.
Would like to know what you find, thanks.
took the head off. my concerns come from being an idiot. i put water down a breather hose. i did see the plastic water outlet was broke (stub that comes out of the engine). so i'll get that, a gasket kit, water pump, timing belt tensioner, and thermostat. i used dye penetrant and checked the block and head. looks like there are cracks starting to form between the spark plug and the valve. the cracks don't look deep. with 200k on the engine, i think it will hold up for another 100k.
i do have a question. do i have to replace the fuel injectors. a mechanic said i have to replace the plastic (type) sleeves at a minimum. how tight do the injectors have to fit?
i do have a question. do i have to replace the fuel injectors. a mechanic said i have to replace the plastic (type) sleeves at a minimum. how tight do the injectors have to fit?
For what it is worth,
Nobody likes to do a job over. That said, think about this,when objects get warm, things expand including cracks.
If you see anything that should not be there, the way things go, a repeat job may be on the horizon and you don't need that.
.
If you want to gamble you might consider the lottery, that way you might only be losing a few dollars. Addl time and work, ,,,,your time and $$$..
Have the head checked, do it right.
If a mechanic was doing that job and he gambled, he is the guy that has to do it over, but you will still pay for a rebuilt head.
Nobody likes to do a job over. That said, think about this,when objects get warm, things expand including cracks.
If you see anything that should not be there, the way things go, a repeat job may be on the horizon and you don't need that.
.
If you want to gamble you might consider the lottery, that way you might only be losing a few dollars. Addl time and work, ,,,,your time and $$$..
Have the head checked, do it right.
If a mechanic was doing that job and he gambled, he is the guy that has to do it over, but you will still pay for a rebuilt head.


