hello...


first time here...but I didn't know where else to turn. I own a 2003 Escape XLT 4WD, that's been nothing but headaches from the start. I now have a new problem...which my mechanic cant seem to diagnose...& which the transmission shop sez...'it ain't us'.

It happens when it hot outside; & after I have driven the vehicle over 100 miles or more (in those hot conditions).

It essentially dies while driving...the RPM's drop all the way down, as well as the forward movement. As I apply the brakes and begin to pull over to the shoulder...sometimes it will sputter & begin to drive normal again for a short spurt; and then immediately die again.

Once on the shoulder (yesterday, for example), I thought I felt the engine running, so I put it in Park & hit the gas. The RPM's came up & back down again, like normal. I then put it into Drive...it begins to take off...gets to 15mph...& then dies again.

I'll then shut it off...then immediately turn it back on again...put it in Drive...& it takes off & drives normal for the next 25 - 50 miles.


& then it does the same thing all over again.

When this occurs...the 'Check Engine' light DOES NOT come on.


Now...it has done this in the past a couple of times...BEFORE I replaced all 3 catalytic converters (along w/ the Y Pipe & the Oxygen Sensor on that Y Pipe). I have also had most of my vacuum hoses replaced, as well as the IAC & the PVC Valve. They have also taken my Throttle Body off & cleaned it out completely.


ALSO...the reason I mentioned the tranny shop is because the tranny has been rebuilt 3 times. After the first two times (whereby the clutch plate on the torque converter failed twice), my tranny guy determined it must be a hairline crack in the converter's housing...went out & purchased another transmission (this one w/ 10,000 less miles)...then replaced all the hard parts in that unit...& that's what's in there now (which has driven OK since). But when the old tranny would fail...I would have to pull over & shut the vehicle off for 20 - 40 minutes before I could drive it to the tranny shop (to wait for it to cool down)


ALSO 2: As an aside...my 'Battery Light' has been coming on intermittently. It will stay on for a few miles...& then turn back off. I don't know what that means (as in...battery vs. alternator), but I didn't think the two problems were related because...as I said before...when it dies now, the 'Check Engine' light doesn't come on.


Needless to say...this new problem has me paranoid. I'm an insurance inspector; & it's not uncommon for me to put 750 miles on the vehicle per week. Now I'm going out on the road worried that I'll break down completely; & it has me pretty shook up.


If anyone has any inside info, experience, hunches (or outright answers)...I would be greatly appreciative.


thanx in advance,


mark4man

 

You might ask your mechanic to check out the "Fuel Pump Driver Module" and it's connections AND Ground connection !

 

hanky...


thanx, man...!!!...do you think that's it? (as in...you've seen this b4?) (&...as in...the check engine light wouldn't come on?)

thanx again,


mark4man

 

It does sound like a fuel starvation type problem and there could be a few causes among which is the driver module.
Intermittents are a tech's worst nightmare and some can be found quickly and others take longer.
Many fuel pumps get replaced when there is no problem with the pump module itself.
There is test equip to confirm the driver module and as you can imagine having to drive quite a few miles to confirm the diagnosis can take some time.
A check should be done to confirm if fuel pressure is being lost to at least narrow it down to a fuel system problem, then determine if the cause might be electrical.

 

Your loosing power to your VITLE pcm. Check all grounds, all connectors especially at the Alt. Of course the battery MUST test good!!!
Sounds like loosing battery power. Run it under 8.5 volts it gonna die. Make sure the Alt is putting out as Specifications allow. Where did you get those exhaust pieces???? Humm.