Starter sometimes won't stop cranking on a 2010 Ford Escape XLS 2.5L 5spd
#1
02-09-2021, 09:36 AM
Starter sometimes won't stop cranking on a 2010 Ford Escape XLS 2.5L 5spd
Hi everyone,
I bought a 2010 Ford Escape XLS 2.5L 5speed manual a few weeks ago. It was in relatively good condition, with some issues that I have been working on.
When I purchased it, it had very uneven throttle response, so I replaced the throttle body with a genuine, new, Ford part from the dealership. After which, I reset the PCM by connecting the positive end of the battery to ground for about 2 minutes; allowed the vehicle to idle cold->warm; and I recalibrated the throttle position sensor by stepping on the pedal from 0 to WOT with the key on/engine off. Since then, the vehicle has driven smoothly, with clean up and downshifts.
However since this repair, I have had two instances where attempting to turn the engine by key in the ignition resulted in the starter motor cranking even when the key was not turned to the start position. The starter motor would crank for a few seconds before stopping on its own. This occurred twice was when I was trying to restart the engine after stalling on a hill-start. Edit: this issue is as severe as other cases reported by users on the internet where they had to disconnect the battery to stop the starter.
I did some searching online but didn't find a clear answer. Somer recommended fixes include:
1. Replacing the starter relay in the fuse box under the hood (#30B)
2. Replacing the ignition switch in the steering column
3. Replacing the starter motor (I believe the solenoid is attached to this starter, correct? rather than being in a separate location like some older ford products?)
Has anyone had this problem previously? Also, does anyone have a good resource for a DIY video on replacing the starter for this generation escape? Does anyone have a recommended flowchart for diagnostics/repair?
Thank you!
Hope everyone is staying safe <3
I bought a 2010 Ford Escape XLS 2.5L 5speed manual a few weeks ago. It was in relatively good condition, with some issues that I have been working on.
When I purchased it, it had very uneven throttle response, so I replaced the throttle body with a genuine, new, Ford part from the dealership. After which, I reset the PCM by connecting the positive end of the battery to ground for about 2 minutes; allowed the vehicle to idle cold->warm; and I recalibrated the throttle position sensor by stepping on the pedal from 0 to WOT with the key on/engine off. Since then, the vehicle has driven smoothly, with clean up and downshifts.
However since this repair, I have had two instances where attempting to turn the engine by key in the ignition resulted in the starter motor cranking even when the key was not turned to the start position. The starter motor would crank for a few seconds before stopping on its own. This occurred twice was when I was trying to restart the engine after stalling on a hill-start. Edit: this issue is as severe as other cases reported by users on the internet where they had to disconnect the battery to stop the starter.
I did some searching online but didn't find a clear answer. Somer recommended fixes include:
1. Replacing the starter relay in the fuse box under the hood (#30B)
2. Replacing the ignition switch in the steering column
3. Replacing the starter motor (I believe the solenoid is attached to this starter, correct? rather than being in a separate location like some older ford products?)
Has anyone had this problem previously? Also, does anyone have a good resource for a DIY video on replacing the starter for this generation escape? Does anyone have a recommended flowchart for diagnostics/repair?
Thank you!
Hope everyone is staying safe <3
Last edited by ThereIsNoEscape; 02-09-2021 at 09:39 AM.
#2
02-09-2021, 10:37 AM
This is how I would approach this and you will no doubt get some addl suggestions.
Connect a test lite to the small terminal on the solenoid on the starter, then place the probe end where it is in contact with any grounded part of the vehicle where you can see it..
When you turn the key to the start position the test light should illuminate at the same time the solenoid reacts.
Now if the test lite stays on after you let go of the key switch , we know something is sending power to the solenoid and that could be the ign sw itself. Now you just work your way back to the ign sw to confirm that diagnosis.
If, however, the starter stays operating and the test light goes off, you know the problem is within the starter itself, at which point , just replace the starter with a rebuilt exchange unit.
The starter can be opened up to see just what was sticking if you want to look.
Connect a test lite to the small terminal on the solenoid on the starter, then place the probe end where it is in contact with any grounded part of the vehicle where you can see it..
When you turn the key to the start position the test light should illuminate at the same time the solenoid reacts.
Now if the test lite stays on after you let go of the key switch , we know something is sending power to the solenoid and that could be the ign sw itself. Now you just work your way back to the ign sw to confirm that diagnosis.
If, however, the starter stays operating and the test light goes off, you know the problem is within the starter itself, at which point , just replace the starter with a rebuilt exchange unit.
The starter can be opened up to see just what was sticking if you want to look.
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