Please help me diagnose & find my problem... see info below:
+ 1999 Ford Escort Sedan 2.0L SPI engine with 128K miles
+ I haven't been able to get/keep the engine running since Sat-18-Aug when it died in the middle of driving.
+ no engine codes/lights/indicators
+ engine started and ran/idled for ~5min Sat-25-Aug then died (has not started/run for more than a few seconds since)
+ the engine makes a knocking/clanging sound when it starts to turn over
+ engine cranks, turns over, and sparks
+ it has new spark plugs (w/ correct gap) & spark plug cables as of 3-Sep'12
- the old far right spark plug #4 was wet with fuel, but other plugs were dry
- the old spark plugs did not look so bad, just black, but gap was too small at 0.045 vs. spec of 0.052-0.056
- new spark plugs now have correct gap at ~0.53 each
+ battery is new as of Jan'10, reads 12.5-13V not running, and ~9.5-10V under load (during crank)
+ it has new fuel filter & fuel pump as of 31-Aug'12
- both old & new pumps would turn on when key was in ON position (before cranking)
- I could blow air through tube between fuel pump and fuel filter, as well as after fuel filter to valve at fuel rail
- fuel pressure on old pump was too low for spec at ~39psi not running and same running
- fuel pump spec: 50-85psi not running & 25-25psi running
- new pump is only 5psi higher (~45psi)
+ I tried jumping car after new fuel filter & pump, but it was no help

SUMMARY: I really thought it was the fuel pump, but I guess it is not so. Engine cranks and turns over, spark is good, fuel kind of OK...
TO DO: check injectors and for vacuum leaks, check compression, check timing belt & related wheels.

I will have to bring it into a shop if I don't see anything during my checks on injectors, vacuum, compression, timing belt/wheels.

HISTORY: several months ago (end of 2011-2012 winter in western Idaho) starting was rough and it sound like something broke, stripped, or jumped (it was a single loud short clank/crack sound), but it was cold & rainy and so I just went on with work that day (car started up). I checked later that day and did not see any broken pieces or anything out of the ordinary. I thought maybe a fan blade broke off, but it was fine. I had an overheating problem at about that same time, but fixed it by filling up coolant reservoir (happened at winter-to-spring transition. During this past summer I would have intermittent hard/noisy starting usually in morning when starting engine to go to work, and then frequency increased to happening also at work just before leaving to go home. Frequency increased, but I was always able to start driving and at higher speeds the rough performance/sound was not present. Saturday 18-Aug was the first time that my engine actually quit working.

The trade-in value is not looking so good with faded paint, non-working A/C, cracked windshield (courtesy of chip seal treatment on road on my way to work), glove compartment won’t open, side-view mirror held on with zip-ties, and some failing electronics inside car (trunk open button doesn't work, door lock button works if pressed multiple times). Kelley Blue Book says a fair price is ~$1,000 trade-in, ~$1,800 private party... and that’s if it is running.

 

If you have a can of carb and choke cleaner,spray a shot into the air intake and see if it starts even for a few seconds. If so could be insufficient fuel problem. I can almost feel your pain !!!

 

Thanks for the reply.

If there is an insufficient fuel problem, how do I find it? My fuel filter and pump are new as of this weekend. Fuel rail & injectors are next right? How do I check injectors? Wouldn't the engine throw a code for that?

What else could be checked for insufficient fuel?

 

What else could be checked for insufficient fuel?

Fuel pressure.

The fuel pump or the fuel pressure regulator could be bad.

 

I have checked fuel pressure and already changed out the fuel pump (and fuel filter, and blew out lines between pump & filter, and filter to rail valve).

How do I check the fuel regulator?

 

Sorry oldblue99, I should have read your original post again...

what you never mentioned is something called a cam synchronizer. It is telling the ECU when to inject fuel. Anyway my Windstar has a synchronizer and your engine should have one too.

If your fuel pressure stays within range you can assume the the regulator is o.k. The membrane in regulators can go bust and allow fuel to go into the intake manifold. but I don't think that's your problem.

Is your new #4 plug still getting wet? A #4 leaking injector could be the cause. Also a miss fire on #4 could be the cause as the fuel would not burn off.

I am not pretending to sharp shoot your problem. I just try to hint on stuff you may not have thought off. Obviously you have significant experience under the hood.

 

Thanks for the continued replies bluewind. Please shoot away, that's why I'm here, to get some help/advise, because contrary to your remark, I am new at this and have no idea what I may be missing or doing wrong. When I hear the same stuff from forums, how-to sites/videos, and people around me then I try to focus on those areas, but I know there are things I am missing... otherwise this would be fixed right I am trying to learn as fast as I can... I have strong motivation from my wife who is biking to work with a child in a bike stroller trailer and talking about buying a new car

Does cam synchronizer = crankshaft position sensor (or VRS Variable Reluctance Sensor)? If so, I think this should be OK since it I am getting spark which means the sensor is reading the teeth and sending signal to make spark. If not, then I haven't learned about it yet and it is probably up by the valves and lifters?

I've rewritten this section a few times... I just learned that my cars EFI system does not have a fuel pressure regulator which would return fuel to tank, but instead a fuel pressure sensor within the fuel rail which measures pressure difference between fuel rail and intake manifold and then talks to PCM (as does the temp sensor), which then [the PCM] decides the needed fuel pressure and tells pump to act accordingly. I need to check this sensor.

I noticed when checking timing belt and timing/position of each piston that the spark plugs all had a little fuel on them, but #4 had some metal dust on it (this is 2nd time I noticed this, OH NO! maybe I have broken guts/valves!?). This timing check shows pistons are in right spot and that the belt and pulleys look OK.

 

Oldblue: do you have the Haynes manual to this car? I find it well worth the $20 it costs at the auto parts store. It is the first "accessory" I buy for every car. It really helps with the testing procedures and gives you voltage values for sensors and torque values for bolts and nuts.
Another thing I do is look for pictures on google and I watch Youtubes on specific problems.

The metal shavings make me worry. Borrow a compression tester at the parts store and get a reading. (watch you tubes on compression testing so you know what you are doing) Compression should be even for all cylinders. If one cylinder drops off significantly you found the problem area, then you need to find out where the leak occurs. Piston rings, valves, head gasket? To answer this question do a "leak down test" with compressed air. EricTheCarGuy has a good Youtube video on that.

If it is a loss of compression you would probably do well shopping for another used car. If there are good parts left on this car you may consider another 99ish Escort/Tracer.

 

Yes, I have and use the Haynes manual... and yes, I have invested hours into EricTheCarGuy videos (plus Scotty Kilmer and others ). Other useful info:
Ford Escort Problems | CarComplaints.com
Car Repair Questions Answered Free by Professional Mechanics Information
Troubleshooting a No-Start Problem - Why Won't My Car Start - What To Look For If Your Car Won't Start
O'Reilly (mainly due to experienced staff)
Autozone (mainly due to close location)

I picked up the rental compression tester today and will also do a leak down test using my air compressor & compression tester attachments.

At this point I will be happy to have bad compression and get a used car. The Escort will probably go to a parts graveyard for some cash. We bought it used (it used to be a rental car), and it lasted us 12yrs... not too bad.

 

"At this point I will be happy to have bad compression and get a used car. The Escort will probably go to a parts graveyard for some cash. We bought it used (it used to be a rental car), and it lasted us 12yrs... not too bad."


Good thinking! If you buy a decent vehicle you will have time for your family again.