I performed a KOEO test and cam e up with the following codes:
4, 99, 21, 22, 41, 33

Also, I found that when I disconnect the TFI connector from the module all of the weirdness stops...

What do you all think? Bad TFI module?

Thanks all for your help!

 

Update!
I got the weird electrical stuff to stop.
Idid the following:
1) I removed the distributor and replaced the TFI.
2) I found the ECT wire grounded out. So I replaced it.
Now... I can't get a spark!? Also, I can't get the scanner to pull any codes.
What a mess! I'm so frustrated I can't think straight!!!
Aaaah!!!
Can someone get me started again on the right track? Please!

 

Well guys,

Its time to call it quites on this project. It has become very clear I have an electrical problem that I can't figure out and I don't have the money to pay a mechanic to fix.

I would like to thank everyone that provided me with some guidance and direction.

Does anyone want to buy a 1990 Escort LX that doesn't run? It has about $300 worth of new parts installed on it. Everything else works on it and it is rust free and straight.

Brian[/align]
_________________

 

Brian, what would happen if you put the old TFI back in it? Also, the wire that you said was grounded, exactly how was it grounded? Bare wire touching metal?

 

Swapping the TFI back made no difference. The electrical connector was the ECT. It was grounded out to a metal support. I replaced that wire/connector.

 

No blown fuses?

 

No blown fuses in the fuse box. Also, the fusible links look OK. Is there a better way to check fusible links other then a visual check? I wish there was a way to remove them from the system and replace them with regular fuse block.

 

Yes, if you have an ohm meter. Unhook the battery cable and then use your ohm meter to check the continuity of the link. If it shows a very low reading, such as anything around an ohm or less, then it is OK. If you get no reading at all, then it is bad. You could also check it by checking for voltage at both ends of the link. Make sure you have the battery cable connected to the battery for this. Hold the black lead of your volt meter on the negative terminal of the battery and use the red lead of your meter to read voltage at both ends of the fusable link. You should naturally read about twelve volts at the end of the link nearest the battery. Check the other end of the link, if you read voltage there then the link is good, if not it is bad. Does anything else on your car work electrically?

 

The only questionable fusible link was the one to the altenator. I have replaced it. Now when I got the car, the air conditioner control switch was messed with. The blower fan doesn't work. I figured it might just be a bad blower replay. I have been so focused with the no start problem that I haven't addressed the relay. I have also discovered that the AC system is also controlled by the ECM. Do you thing there might be a relationship between the AC and the weird electrical issues when the key is turned to the on position? (yes, I might be really reaching way out there...)

 

Hmmm!?! I'm not sure about that. Maybe someone else can chime in here and educate us on that. I'm going to dig around on some other sites and see if I can find anything for you.

By the way, when you crank the motor over, does the distibutor rotor turn?