The one my my '88 Escort GL (3-spd autoTX) is suspect, and I've found a replacement for it. Not hard to see, not really that hard to get to, but it is in a tight spot (with TX linkage around it).




The '88 Ford Car Shop Manual, Vol."E" instructions in the transmission chapter ... remove bolts, remove switch, replace with new switch, replace bolts, adjust safety switch as outlined before tightening screws. Done.
Except there are no 'adjusting' instructions.

What isn't mentioned (because this is the transmission assembly chapter) is whether or not the gear selector needs to be (for example) in neutral, and if the new switch needs to be "clocked" with it as such. I cannot find any in-vehicle "repair" procedure instructions.

This same switch (and variants) are used on a LOT of Ford products; several videos that I have watched show an index mark. This early switch has no marks, that I am aware of.

I will add that accessing, and removing the switch, can only be done with the gear selector in "Low" so that the linkage uncovers access to the 6mm bolt heads.

 

As you can see looking at the sw assy, there are 2 slotted mounting holes for securing the switch.

The starter should only operate when sw and gearshift lever are in either park or neutral position.
The movement required to place the sw in the proper position is very little. Just make a reference mark on the sw , where you can easily see it and the trans.
Once that is done you cam move the shift lever , see the marks , align them and tighten the adjusting /mounting screws.

REMEMBER IT SHOULD ONLY START IN THE PARK AND NEUTRAL POSITIONS. It is that simple and you can do it !

 

Just "seeing" the switch, end on, is near impossilble. Getting a 8mm socket onto the two 6mm bolts (at the bottom of the switch) is going to take some extra work. The first photo was taken with my endoscopic attachment.

 

There are times when we need to alter some tools to gain access. An example is to heat a wrench, bend it ,to make it work..

Everything cannot always be done with sockets. That is why some shops invest in assorted tools to use on a specific jobs.

 

I think this might do the trick; 2" swivel-head. I also picked a couple of short 1/4" drive "wobble" extensions.

 

It DID do the trick. I had to R&R the tranmission linkage, and some wires and hoses to get to it, but once that was out of the way it was clear sailing.

It turns out that the switch itself was not the problem; the actual issue was that the two 6mm x 40mm hex bolts that secure the switch housing to the face of the transaxle were only finger-tight, which allowed the switch to rotate everso slightly out of position. I removed the old switch, it tested good, electrically. But I replaced it anyway.

The small hole, in the face of the switch, allows a 3/32" [.093"] drill bit to be inserted to 'lock' the internal switch to the external housing for installation (eliminating one possible alignment error during installation). It's removed after installion.