1996 Ford Explorer XLT 4 DR V6
No dash or tail lights keep popping fuse #3

Have an issue with popping fuse #3 which is the parking light fuse I believe. When it pops it takes out my parking/running lights as well as my dash lights.The dash lights are on not listed as being on this fuse. I have been trying to determine if there is a short somewhere and where it is for some months now. When I replace the fuse it may last a week even a couple weeks but might only last a few minutes as well. I have looked through a chiltons book and the wiring diagrams trying to trace things. I have thought maybe the stereo it is an aftermarket model, I have discounted the upper center console because I have an issue with the map lights and the copper flat wire/washer thing.

This started a while back when it did then I replaced the headlight switch that did not help then researched info on the dash dimmer switch/wheel which is what I thought it might be. I tested it by watching a few videos on Youtube and thought it was the problem. being they are pretty expensive I decide to try and fix it by watching a few more videos showing how to solder certain areas. This did help for a short period. Recently the fuse still keeps popping with less time between replacing the fuse. I even found info on maybe it could be my trailer light connection. I have a after market connector in-place for towing a trail which I removed as well. still not luck. Recently I have removed the battery and had to charge it because it was pretty dead just over night but I was trying to make the fuse blow to try and find out what the source that is causing it to pop. Maybe I just drained it with the doors open and messing with the different lights and stereo. not sure there. Checked all the fused on the side of the dash board as well as the fuses in the Power Distribution Box under the hood. I pulled all the relays that are located in the dash in Module Box #4 I believe it is called. I believe they are all fine. I did this because when I start the truck from time to time I hear a relay I believe it is switching for a few seconds, say maybe 10-15 seconds then it stops. This does not cause the fuse pop though. I was thinking a short to ground possible, so when I had the batter removed the other day I check continuity on both negative which there was from the negative wire to the engine. when I check the positive I get continuity sometimes, which is strange to me. when this was done the headlight switch was off as well as the fuse was remove from space #3 the one popping. So I am really thinking a short somewhere. I am not a mechanic but I have some skills but a little lost at this point. I am also thinking could I have maybe connect something inside the dimmer switch but this was happening before I did the soldering as well. when I replace the fuse everything working fine for who knows how long till it pops again. I also check the Amps for the #3 fuse space when I replaced it again last night and it was going from around 5.7 to 4.44 as I moved the dimmer switch wheel up and down. So no real big jumps. At this point I replace the fuse and I start the truck put it in gear and pop goes the fuse. Pretty loud as well. I have been through I would say about 50 fused at this point Any and all information I will be very Thankful for.

Please!
Thank You!

Sorry for this being so long of a explanation. I wanted to be detailed to make this easier to figure out!

 

Do you have a copy of the owner's manual for your vehicle ?

 

When the F3 fuse blown you said no light to your instrument cluster, but how about your head lights if you turn the headlamp switch to headlamp (not auto) position?
How you tested and confirmed all the relays from relay box #4 are fine? You bench tested them or just visually? And why just #4?

It's very fine to have long explanation but it'd be nice if, for instance, break your 2nd paragraph into 3 to 5 separate ones so it's easier to read and follow.

 

Yes, I do have the owners manual. I have been using it as well as the Chilton book.

 

Yes I do

 

The, headlights, and the turn signal lights work fine as well as the break lights. There is not auto option on this model for the headlights.

The only issue is the parking lights and the instrument panel lights , aka the Dash lights, going out when fuse#3 pops.

The group of relays behind the dash, called instrument panel relay module #4 containing 7 different relays. 6 of them are the same relay just used for different items. The 7th relay in the group is a different type looking relay. But I did remove
each one. One by one and bench checked them. Check for continuity on legs 30-87 using a multi-meter and then using 2 jumper wires I also check each relay using the truck battery on legs 85 and 86 and I heard the relay either opening or closing. Then reinstalled each one back in there place.
I checked the relays in that module because of a suggestion from a different forum and reference those relays. Plus I do hear sometime when I start the truck I believe one of those relays clicking for a short period of time. Like it is stuck clicking. But this sound is not all the time and it does not seem to coincide with or with out the fuse poping.
Yes I do have an owner's manual as well.

 

Relay Box # 4 above. Do we have the same diagrams, your chiltons and my alldata? Even though you have the service manual already I'm going to submit some diagrams so people who come to this thread in the future have some ideas.
What I found for parking light is located in relay module as shown below:



If you haven't tested this please do so, or perhaps your box 4 is the same as the one shown above as "relay module" without the # 4.
You know how to bench test a relay, which is good. In case someone who comes to this thread doesn't know how, you can search google or if you know how but you want to save time just buy dirt cheap relay tester like this on temu here. Pic sample below:


Now let's look at fuse F3 diagram below:

You can tell of course it's possible somewhere in your instrument is short to ground but more than likely it's the bad connector on one of the lamps shown below:


Above diagram follow circuit 14 (BR - brown wire), inspect all lamp connectors, if one of the BR wire is short to the BK (black wire) on circuit 57, it could blow the F3 fuse. And when F3 is blown, your dash light also is out.
A corroded lamp connector wire or pinched wire could be the cause (higher chance) than issue inside the instrument cluster. Check the lamps on the front first (higher chance of bad connector than rear). If you need to replace just the connector don't forget to check rockauto first, get the brand and its part number then check amazon. Put dielectric grease on non-metal part of the connector to seal once it's replaced.

 

A lot of folks are not great at following wire diagrams. In your owner's manual it will tell you what each fuse protects. It is important to know what else is on that circuit.
With that info you can make sure you check everything involved .The owner's manual also has a diagram that shows what fuses and relays are involved.

With that info you don't waste a lot of time and effort disturbing relays. Some folks even manage to remove a fuse and put it back in the wrong place. That is the reason I suggest investing in a test light. You can check fuses without removing them.
If a fuse blows every time you go to operate a feature, that manual will give you some idea of where to look and check instead of wasting a lot of time and effort.
Anytime a fuse blows (opens) it is due to more current flowing through that circuit than normal and it does not always have to be a short path to ground involving wiring, An internal problem with a component can also cause excessive current flow and cause the fuse to open.These are little bits of info that can save you a lot of time , trouble and expense.
A wiring diagram is a great tool to have, but some practical knowledge and experience is invaluable and that is what we try to share here.

 

The images you uploaded did not match mine. This vehicle is the 1996 Explorer XLT v6 vin X
I also believe it is consider the 4 door High series with the tow options as well.
I do not have the auto headlight options either.
I have been trying to figure this out still since I txt last. still have not figured this out.
I change out the fuse for number #3 the parking Lamps and the moment I turn the head lights on it pops and pretty loud at that. When I insert the keys and turn ignition on, one of the relays from the module #4 clicks for a bit most of the time. some times this does not happen. what ever is shorting out it must be happening on and off. Different issues are happening then not happening.
I have purchased a new headlight switch and also a new relay #F57B-14B192-AA. the relay i used to check the other ones in Mod#4. I did go through all 7 relays and check them a few different ways. They all seemed to check out fine but when I do turn the headlight switch on I believe 1 or maybe 2 of the relays get pretty hot. The one larger relay (Accy. Delay System Power Windows) 5 pin relay located in the bottom right corner of mod#4 (one of the images) also the one next to that one listed as the (Head Lamp Delay System Anti-Theft System)

Even with out the Dimmer switch installed--I removed it- The fuse still pops. I have removed a few things from the vehicle at this point. Trying to track down what is going on. I will say I am really no better now that I was weeks ago.
I have removed the upper center console which has the Map or Courtesy Lights in it. There was a thin copper like washer under the light bulb that Had sparked a while back when I tried replacing the bulbs. I have never seen it before and messed up the copper paper wire things. I was wondering if it was shorting out. So I removed the whole Console. I have also removed the Center Console area with the stereo so I could disconnect the stereo it is an after market system which was installed before I got the truck. I was thinking the short could be located somewhere back there, maybe. I discounted the stereo, the Fog Lamps because the light bulbs did not work and still had the bulbs in the socket with no glass and where very rusted out. maybe that could be the issue. I have also removed all the lights on the back side of the truck checking the bulb sockets for a possible short. The high middle stop light that works off a ballast was not working for a while. I was thinking that could be the issues. I have been through a good amount of information online and talking with other that know a some about vehicle electrical. I did not find any sockets in the rear lights burnt. also did not find any shorts( open wires ect.) in the Center Console. What seems to me at this point there is to much electricity going into the fuse #3 Parking Lights!! I can not find any breaks down or documents with reference numbers of volts or resistance for any of the wires. I use a bulb and some wire and made a test light plugged it into the fuse #3 socket instead of popping anymore fuses. I have been through a lot at this point. The light bulb got so bright when I turn the headlight switch on.I also did not notice before. the headlight switch is not working correctly either. the icon light on the actual switch does not stay on when you turn the switch on, also the headlights come one on either of the options, but the headlights should only come on with the last option of the switch, the first options should be the instrument panel lights, which are still out as well they use the #3 fuse.. The Parking Lights are not Listed in the inside fuses or the fuse panel located in under the hood. the only place I found it kind of listed is in the Mod #4. I have checked the relay that references it but it test all good.

So, I believe for some reason the current seems to be way to high when it comes in on the circuit for fuse #3, I think it gets feed by the actual Headlights circuit.which, has not pop there fuses or there relays at all, the Instrument Panel and or the circuit that feeds the Headlights switch before fuse #3 is actually not shown on any of the websites or research.

At this point I am truly stumped, besides having a lot of it disassembled.as well. I have researched a ton lot of information to truly not even understand how they have this even wired. It does not really make sense to me current goes to the headlight switch then the instrument panel relay as well as to the dimmer switch then the fuse box then the headlights but also cuts off to the fog lights and so on...... I know that does not say much probable but I did think I was pretty good at solving most issues with most items that I have come across in my 54 years on this planet. any and all suggestions on what to check or replace at this point would be so greatly appreciated very much.

Please, I do not actually have the kind of funds a shop would charge me to be the one searching this problem down..

Any questions feel free to ask me as well...If it would be easier to talk I would be willing to do that as well.



Power Distribution fuses and replays located under the hood, on the drivers side by the battery.

Instrument Panel Relay Module #4 Located Under or behind the instrument panel, under the dashboard.

Fused Panel inside the vehicle on the side of the dashboard Pg1

Fused Panel inside the vehicle on the side of the dashboard Pg2

Fused Panel inside the vehicle on the side of the dashboard Pg3

 

Check above on V6 there is no other model trim/engine size I can select.
Don't you have the BR and BK wires at each bulb sockets? Like mentioned previously, you should check, wire brush clean, replace the socket or pigtail if needed. Most of the times when there is electrical issue like this it's a short to ground at the bulb socket. Why? The wires there (especially any front lamp) get corrosion easier than the wires at the fuse box. The BR and BK wires are so close to each other at the socket. If there is a break on the BR or BK wire at the socket worst case you only get an open circuit and that particular lamp (even brand new) just won't light up. If they are touching each other the entire BR circuit will be brought down and the fuse would be blown. You should have heard that the fuse, what's the purpose of a fuse, is to protect the BR wire, not the bulb socket, not the headlamp switch, not the module, and not the fuse box, in event of the BR wire is catching a fire.
I strongly suggest you to take different approach and first check every single bulb socket rather than spending time at the fuse box or at the headlamp switch, not that it's impossible, just a little less likely than the wires at the bulb socket.