I'm a current Honda owner looking to buy a used fifth generation Ford Explorer. I read to avoid 2010-2012. Are there any other years I should avoid?

I'm also having the issue of only finding rental/fleet/commercial vehicles for sale! Is it common for this model to be used for those purposes? What are your thoughts on buying a corporate/fleet vehicle? Is it as "bad" as buying a rental vehicle? I'm currently considering buying a corporate vehicle. It was driven 10K miles a year on average and was taken in for all regular maintenance on time. Any help would be appreciated!

 

If possible, ask to see the maintenance records. Somebody has them , that should give you some idea how well it was maintained. Look for large expense items. Sometimes if certain special work was repeated it could indicate an on going problem that could become yours.

 

My Explorer is a 2012 LimitedX model. This is the first time I have seen an explorer that is LimitedX; I have only seen Limited models. Can somebody please tell me what it means? I am really at a loss as I have googled everything about it I can think of and have come up with no results.

Thanks

 

Before I post my first comment, I think its only fair to say that if you NIT-PICK all the various vehicles available, you will find Faults in every one of them. Some are so minor you sound like a spoiled rich kid snow-flake in complaining about them, while others can be life threatening. But its best to pay attention to all recalls, forum issues and complaints.

Just to add to the Explorer Faults.... (mind you they may have addressed this issue in the 5th gen)

A very serious concern in SOME OF the other gens of the Explorer is the possibility of Carbon-monoxide .... (if spelled right) poisoning!
It appears that there are issues with the exhaust entering the cabin from several possible points on some Gen's. One being the seal caps/drain caps/ access holes...etc found around the back end of the body and rear door. Just raise the rear door and silicone or RTV the plastic caps and look for others that might be under the cover where the tire is. This will help eliminate the fumes coming in as they draft points are now sealed. Yeah I know they are little plastic covers for other use such as pulling wires and such (access points) but you can always pull them if needed and re-RTV after your done!
Also, the rear door seal needs to be checked to make sure its sealing good and I personally would keep a close watch on this door perimeter seal and make sure its in good shape. Thus I would invest in a $10 can of spray on silicone and keep the seals happy for the longevity (10-15 years) of the vehicle. Replace Door seals as necessary, but a little Black silicone or RTV can fix any nick or break in a pinch. Just make sure it seals.

Lastly on the Carbon-monixide issue....
In some Gens I have read that you may have to take it to a dealer and they will reprogram the Heating/AC end of things as that too can pump in the Monixid gas if the fresh air vent is open at higher speeds (or lower speeds / I forget). However, I think that is only a safety net in case the front end has an manifold or other exhaust leak near the front end. But you have to ask Ford (What the hell were you thinking by porting fresh air from around the motor as there is always going to be some potential type motor fumes?) My fix is simple if you can bypass the fresh air vent with some piping system to other "Fresher Air location".... either that or do away with the vent and just roll down your damn window if you need Fresh Air. But I get it you can always roll down your window.

As for a water pump!
The water pump is a bad design and probably that of some snowflake ford engineer that has now mechanical knowledge or hands on common sense ....what so ever. Perhaps they were Intern that never got their hands dirty and wore white gloves their entire life.

But! I have never owned an older car or a used car that did not need a water pump, alternator or starter to be replaced from time to time (perhaps at 50K miles). In saying that, the majority of vehicles they claim to have failed water pumps seem to be around 80k to 130k miles which is impressionable for a wear part. More so with the engines getting 200.000 to 300,000 miles on the engine its a far leap from the 1970s when you would haggle about a car having 100K miles and get a half off the cost and purchase as they were usually considered ready for the grave yard at around!

NOTE:
I am very guilty of this-
I have never bothered changing my engine coolant as the norm maintenance PM, only adding to it or replacing it when I do a new water pump install. But Aluminum is different than Cast blocks and heads, and I hear that can cause an "Acidic/Corrosive Fluid" that will eat away at the seals and Aluminum if not replaced/flushed every year or two. So I plan on doing that with every newbie (used vehicle I own).
$50-$100 bucks on an annual motor flush and oil change vs Engine or water pump replacement is a no brainier when it comes to the 3.5 & 3.7 alum block with the internal WP!

Spite the larger grunt job of internal work of replacing the 3.5/3.7 pump at every 80k-100k (best common sense Preventive). They also claim you need to change the timing chain and tension'ers as well while your in there. Most of the tension'ers and chain seem to have a better longevity of life if well maintained and its your call to replace them. SO always check the timing chain itself for wear as you might as well replace that chain while your accessing the water pump. But if all looks good why pump more money into the "Slightly worn parts" unless it is begging for the attention. Then again, if your pockets run deep then I would go ahead and replace all while you are inside the engine that deep.
Most will pull the engine to do this job (if the motor is mounted sideways) its usually the best way to go at it as there are a lot of torque's to consider. In any case be careful when removing the front timing cover as its large and thin and can break in half. Take your time prying it off and MAKE SURE ALL BOLTS ARE REMOVED! lol

Explorer Front Hood paint job . I dont know if its all Explorer Gens and models
but the last issue I know about is the PI (Police Interceptor) has an aluminum hood and the paint seems to bubble around the bug shield area and will start flaking off (probably due to micro bug/sand impact and abrasives, holes or other). You have no choice here but to sand and paint or come up with another solution. My thought is to sand and paint a thin layer of bed liner around the impact parameter.. but that only is feasible if you have a black or grey trim paint job. It might not look so prestige or virgin, but then again if the paint is bubbling up and flaking off I will suck up that false sense of pride prestige and looks like new social status frowning and snubbing. LOL