Hi. I have a 2000 Ford Explorer XLT, 4.0L SOHC V6. My car was acting weird, and I thought it was the battery, but then realized it was the cable. I cleaned the terminal, and noticed the cable had corrosion just under the connector. I broke out the cable cutter, and tried to trim back to where there was no corrosion, but the whole thing was compromised. I went out and bought black cable and red cable, connectors ,and tools to put it together, but I just haven't been able to get the time to rebuild the entire assembly. Doesn't anyone sell those? I've seen a few online, but none that indicates that it fits my vehicle. Where might I look? If nobody is selling them, are there directions online somewhere, to build the assembly? Since I have the cables and connectors, I could do that; but I'd really like to just take it to the shop, at this point. I'd greatly appreciate any advice.

 

Most auto supply stores have various lengths and either positive or negative cable ends. You might try places like NAPA, Advance,OReillys, Autozone , etc.
While there you might consider purchasing a battery terminal cleaning tool also. Worth the small cost. If you place a small coating of Dielectric grease on the terminals after installation that helps prevent corrosion at the battery. The terminal protector spray doesn't work as good as the grease.

 

Hi. Thanks for the reply. I did purchase some red cable and some black cable, of the appropriate gauge, as well as a grounding lead. I thought it would be as simple as every other set of battery cables that I've replace, on various vehicles. That is not the case, it isn't just two cables, and connector ends, and the grounding lead; it a whole assembly. There is, apparently, more than two connection points for the positive. If I can't find the right assembly, I'm going to have to build the entire assembly, with the cable I have; if I have to build one, I really need a schematic, to indicate lengths and where the cables are fastened together.

 

How far does the corrosion go in the cable that you feel the need to replace/make a whole harness?
I would just cut the harness back to where the corrosion ends and solder a new correctly guaged wire to that end and run it bqck to the battery.

 

I trimmed the positive as far as I could reach, and didn't get to cable that wasn't corroded. Since the cables are connected to a more extended harness, I figure I'll need to replace/rebuild the whole thing.

 

If you don't have the proper parts and crimping tools, it may work for a while, but the better thing to do is to just replace the cable assy. If you make a diagram of where each tail goes, it should be no problem to just replace the entire assy. The "Emergency" cable ends sold are for just that , "EMERGENCY" There a lot of those ends running around on a lot of vehicles , but they are an invitation for corrosion.
By this time , you realize I am sure, corrosion can become a serious problem and can be avoided with the proper parts and attention.
Don't know for sure if the entire cable assy is available at a dealership, if not, you might be able to have a shop that has the tools make up a cable assy based on the info you provide. There is a lot to be said for, "Do it right and do it once.".
The ends should be crimped with the proper tool and shrink tubing placed over the crimp to prevent exposure to gases and conditions that contribute to corrosion.

 

You don't need any special tools to make a battery cable. I have made many assemblies using heavy cutters, pliers/vice to slightly sqeeze the new terminal (if needed) onto the new cable. I slide a piece of heat shrink tubing down onto the cable before installing the clamp. I then solder the clamp onto the cable using a small propane tank like plumbers use.I just would not be soldering with an open flame right above the battery for safety reasons. PROTECT YOUR EYES WHEN SOLDERING!. Cleanliness of the clamp and cable is vital to making a good soldered connection.This is far superior to any cable assembly using mechanical crimp only connections which you find in the stores or make yourself..

 

I have the materials (both colored cable, ground lead, connectors though I'll need more, and shrink sleeves) and tools (basic tools for automotive work, soldering iron, a heat gun to shrink the sleeves), I just lack time, motivation, and a place to do the work (the apartment complex has a problem with any automotive work, even though I won't be making any oily mess). I tried to talk a mechanic that I went to for front end work, to do it, but he wants me to have the whole assembly. If I'm going to make the whole assembly, which will probably require me to remove the old one, since I can't find any schematics, I might as well put the new one on myself. One big problem right now, though, is that my arthritis has decided to ramp it up a bit, and I can no longer close my pointer finger (on my dominant hand), and can't apply any pressure between first finger and thumb; make pincer grasping anything a problem (I'm just going to have to learn how to grasp things with my thumb and middle finger. I hate getting old, lol

 

Go to your dealer with the vin and get a quote and part number from the parts dept for the harness. You can search for the part number online to get a cheaper price.

If decide to build a new harness you will need to remove the old harness to build it to match.

 

according to Ford. It was recommended I check with 3rd party, and I have, alot. I've also looked online; for the assembly, as well as a schematic to build the assembly. I can't find either, that's why I originally created this thread. At this point I'm waffling between figuring out some way to get the old assembly off, without the apartment manager catching me, using it as a guide to make another, then somehow manage to get the new one on without getting caught and risking eviction, or selling for whatever and getting an e-bike. Actually, I really want an e-bike regardless of whether I keep the suv.