I have a 2000 Ford Explorer Sport and I do not lock my car. The reason is because if I lock them I will have to crawl in through the back and climb over the seat to pull the inside handle of the door. I can not unlock it using the keys or the alarm. When I put the key in it will not budge on the driver or the passenger side. The alarm makes the door lock jump but it will not unlock it. The only door that unlocks is the trunk door.

My neighbor suggested changing the lock/unlock button on the driver's side because it might be the master. Has anyone ever tried this?

Thanks for any help or suggestions.

 

Welcome to the site.

So does the rear door unlock/lock manually with the key?

It's not uncommon for multiple door lock actuators to fail, sometimes they won't do anything, or, sometimes they rattle or jump. If there's a latch lock issues, and the key won't manually release the lock mechanism, then the remote and lock actuator solenoid probably won't either. If the key and remote won't unlock, I'd look into a latch issue first. If the key won't unlock (and correct key--reason for the rear door question) it would point me to the latch, although odd it would be both forward doors at the same time.

With keyless remote entry, the key itself should always be able to gain entry...

 

Not a fix, but a side note on remote/key usage.

In the world of remotes, the actual key locks normally are never used, They tend to seize up and will not turn with the key. I use my remotes all the time, but still make it a habit to work all the key cylinders on my vehicles once a week. I spray a shot of PB Blaster in the cylinders every fall and spring and work the cylinders.

I've freed up quite a few lock cylinders by slowly working the key with PB Blaster. So if yours won't move, give it a try and be patient, some take quite a while before they finally let loose and work.

 

Kinda on the same page as Use Common Sense. Out here we don't see many stuck latches and lock cylinders (other than the Door Ajar switches in the latches), but I'm sure in the corrosion belt and such could easily be the cause.

Also, sometimes if not the original owner, the ignition lock set only will get replaced because of outer section spinning or loose. Was a fairly common failure. If not keyed alike to the doors it will have a separate key. (The other reason I asked if the rear door lock worked with the key) that won't work on the doors. But even if/with different keys, Remote Entry should still work.

Liberally lubing the cylinders and latches, with gentle massaging, good direction...

 

I just wanted to thank all of you for your suggestions. I sprayed some WD-40 in the lock cylinder and it freed up the locks! I can't believe it was that simple. The key works and unlocks the doors now. The only door that still won't unlock with the alarm is the drivers side but at least I can unlock it with the key. My days of crawling through the back are over.

 

WD40 is a water displacement product (WD) and although a penetrant of sorts, not really a lube. Might want to pick up a lock/latch lube for a longer lasting result..

Gonna have to give UCS a raise.. ;-)

 

Happy to hear you got 95% of your lock issues resolved.

Hayapower...We all get a raise when we get a "FIX" response and what the fix was...

Now, back to your Driver's side lock. Does the door lock operate properly with the inside switch?

 

After the WD-40 soaked for a but the drivers side finally came loose. I will by some actual lubricant and add it soon. Thank you you again. Glad I could rely on this forum for some great help