03 f150 5.4 supercrew
#12
04-27-2022, 11:56 AM
Update,
Didn't have much time yesterday due to storms and rain, however at the suggestion of one of my coworker millwrights I borrowed his fuel pressure testing gauge..... Well I don't have fuel pressure ..at least measurable pressure. when you pin punch the Schrader valve on the fuel rail it would spew fuel out so I hadn't checked it with a gauge set. I connected the hose/gauge to the rail and cycled the key about 15 times total meanwhile depressing the bleed of on the gauge to remove air but the fuel pressure never moved the gauge needle - the gauge set is almost brand new and well taken care of so I feel the gauge is operating correctly. I also depressed the accelerator to the floor and had the truck crank and run maybe 10-15 seconds before finally stalling out and "flooding"( It smells as if it's flooded), still no pressure on the gauge. Removed the gauge and depressed the bleed off and fuel drained from the gauge hose but never built pressure. unless there is a relief valve or something else that would keep the pump from building pressure I'm going to purchase a new pump this afternoon.
Didn't have much time yesterday due to storms and rain, however at the suggestion of one of my coworker millwrights I borrowed his fuel pressure testing gauge..... Well I don't have fuel pressure ..at least measurable pressure. when you pin punch the Schrader valve on the fuel rail it would spew fuel out so I hadn't checked it with a gauge set. I connected the hose/gauge to the rail and cycled the key about 15 times total meanwhile depressing the bleed of on the gauge to remove air but the fuel pressure never moved the gauge needle - the gauge set is almost brand new and well taken care of so I feel the gauge is operating correctly. I also depressed the accelerator to the floor and had the truck crank and run maybe 10-15 seconds before finally stalling out and "flooding"( It smells as if it's flooded), still no pressure on the gauge. Removed the gauge and depressed the bleed off and fuel drained from the gauge hose but never built pressure. unless there is a relief valve or something else that would keep the pump from building pressure I'm going to purchase a new pump this afternoon.
#13
04-28-2022, 05:10 AM
Are you sure the pump is actually running? Do you hear it run for the usual 2-3 seconds when you first turn the key on?
Before jumping the gun and possibly replacing a good pump, make sure power is getting to the pump.and it has a good ground.connection.
If either is the problem , a new pump will not solve that problem.
They do have a returnless fuel system and the pressure regulator is in the pump module. If you KNOW it is running , but not building pressure then a new module assy is in order..
Before jumping the gun and possibly replacing a good pump, make sure power is getting to the pump.and it has a good ground.connection.
If either is the problem , a new pump will not solve that problem.
They do have a returnless fuel system and the pressure regulator is in the pump module. If you KNOW it is running , but not building pressure then a new module assy is in order..
Last edited by hanky; 04-28-2022 at 05:14 AM.
#14
04-28-2022, 08:22 AM
Yes, the pump was running but not supplying but a little fuel to the rail just enough to allow it to start but very difficult to keep it running and when I could keep it running I was working the throttle and it wouldn't rev up. I will install the pump over the weekend if work and weather permits. Once the pump is in i'll update.
Thanks again for the advice
Thanks again for the advice
#15
05-19-2022, 07:29 AM
Hello,
I have finally been able to continue to "work" on my truck... I sure would like to have it fixed by now but I continue to search for the solution. Here's my update. I decided not to replace the fuel pump and go back to the wet fueled plugs, since if an injector was stuck it could prevent pressure building. I pulled all plugs out to recheck for raw fuel and only found #8 to be wet with fuel (earlier I thought it was 3&7). Replaced the injector on #8 and tried to start it up and once again it is doing the same, however it does appear, sound or act as if this helped ?????? not sure but it seems to have and still no codes. Lastly I went ahead and replaced the passenger side O2 sensor upstream and nothing changed. I had planned on reusing the sensor I removed and put it on the drivers side but I damaged it while removing it. SOOO... here I am and the saga and mystery continues. Does anyone have other trouble shooting suggestions?
I have finally been able to continue to "work" on my truck... I sure would like to have it fixed by now but I continue to search for the solution. Here's my update. I decided not to replace the fuel pump and go back to the wet fueled plugs, since if an injector was stuck it could prevent pressure building. I pulled all plugs out to recheck for raw fuel and only found #8 to be wet with fuel (earlier I thought it was 3&7). Replaced the injector on #8 and tried to start it up and once again it is doing the same, however it does appear, sound or act as if this helped ?????? not sure but it seems to have and still no codes. Lastly I went ahead and replaced the passenger side O2 sensor upstream and nothing changed. I had planned on reusing the sensor I removed and put it on the drivers side but I damaged it while removing it. SOOO... here I am and the saga and mystery continues. Does anyone have other trouble shooting suggestions?
#16
05-20-2022, 09:57 AM
I won't disagree with your reasoning,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,but if that one injector is stuck open you should have an awful lot of fuel in the crankcase plus ,a misfire code in the computer.plus, be on your way looking for another converter because the over fuel condition will overheat the converter and destroy it.
I would still replace the entire fuel tank module, which is not cheap.
I would still replace the entire fuel tank module, which is not cheap.
#17
05-23-2022, 12:08 PM
Monday update;
I checked the oil and there doesn't appear to be any fuel in the crankcase and I also went ahead and replaced the fuel pump and there is pressure there seems to be more pressure at the rail (I had to return the gauge that I borrowed) so I hope there is correct pressure. I cheated on the converter because it may not be the culprit, I used a Sawzall and cut a wedge out of the line in front of the converter on the passenger side to see if that would change anything since I can weld the wedge back in if needed. Once again no change No codes. A couple of observations I have made is when I go to work on it the next day when I turn the key to crank it it will crank up, idle up for a brief second then die right on out and not idle unless I feather the throttle to keep the RPM'S up but if I allow it to cut itself off I'll have to hold the accelerator to the floor to get it to start up again. these are a couple observations I've seen. To be honest I'm at the point of taking it to a mechanic with a scan tool to solve the issue, I'm disappointed that I couldn't figure it out on my own.
I checked the oil and there doesn't appear to be any fuel in the crankcase and I also went ahead and replaced the fuel pump and there is pressure there seems to be more pressure at the rail (I had to return the gauge that I borrowed) so I hope there is correct pressure. I cheated on the converter because it may not be the culprit, I used a Sawzall and cut a wedge out of the line in front of the converter on the passenger side to see if that would change anything since I can weld the wedge back in if needed. Once again no change No codes. A couple of observations I have made is when I go to work on it the next day when I turn the key to crank it it will crank up, idle up for a brief second then die right on out and not idle unless I feather the throttle to keep the RPM'S up but if I allow it to cut itself off I'll have to hold the accelerator to the floor to get it to start up again. these are a couple observations I've seen. To be honest I'm at the point of taking it to a mechanic with a scan tool to solve the issue, I'm disappointed that I couldn't figure it out on my own.
#19
03-25-2024, 03:04 PM
Looking for any advise,
no code or anything !! The other day as I pulled out onto the highway and accelerated the truck started to die out. I'm not sure of all the details it did when it cut off since there were cars passing me and I was trying to pull over. Once off the road I tried to restart the truck and it only zooed over but smelt like it was flooded. I let it set for a minute then tried again to start it but this time with the accelerator on the floor and it tried to start but ran extremely rough , smelled like it was flooding and would not idle at all. I was luck that a guy I work with pulled in and we discussed what was happening he said it sounded as if the catalytic converter was stopped up. I need to note that the "Check engine" light was and still isn't lit up. I crawled under the truck and the right side converter was noticeably hotter than the left side. I stopped trying to crank it and got a trailer to haul it home. The next afternoon after work I tried to restart it and once again it smelled flooded and would only crank and run extremely rough when the pedal is to the floor. When I get it cranked I have to feather the pedal to try keeping it running.
NOW>> The things I have checked, tried and Googled ..... I took a sawzall and cut a small wedge in the front of the right hand catalytic converter (I can weld it back in) then tried to start the truck again which this didn't make any difference . Next I removed and cleaned the following, Idle air control , EGR & sensor, DPFE, MAF sensor. Once again No codes nor any difference in the idle or starting. Next I purchased a coil pack and spark plug then starting on #1 cylinder i went through all 8 removing and replacing each assembly then trying to start it after each coil and plug were changed just in case there was a bad coil but not showing a miss fire . Also I have looked for any vacuum line cracks etc. but I haven't seen any yet. I do have a cheap scan tool but it still usually does what I need but not this time I need HELP !!!
Thank in advance for and help or suggestions
no code or anything !! The other day as I pulled out onto the highway and accelerated the truck started to die out. I'm not sure of all the details it did when it cut off since there were cars passing me and I was trying to pull over. Once off the road I tried to restart the truck and it only zooed over but smelt like it was flooded. I let it set for a minute then tried again to start it but this time with the accelerator on the floor and it tried to start but ran extremely rough , smelled like it was flooding and would not idle at all. I was luck that a guy I work with pulled in and we discussed what was happening he said it sounded as if the catalytic converter was stopped up. I need to note that the "Check engine" light was and still isn't lit up. I crawled under the truck and the right side converter was noticeably hotter than the left side. I stopped trying to crank it and got a trailer to haul it home. The next afternoon after work I tried to restart it and once again it smelled flooded and would only crank and run extremely rough when the pedal is to the floor. When I get it cranked I have to feather the pedal to try keeping it running.
NOW>> The things I have checked, tried and Googled ..... I took a sawzall and cut a small wedge in the front of the right hand catalytic converter (I can weld it back in) then tried to start the truck again which this didn't make any difference . Next I removed and cleaned the following, Idle air control , EGR & sensor, DPFE, MAF sensor. Once again No codes nor any difference in the idle or starting. Next I purchased a coil pack and spark plug then starting on #1 cylinder i went through all 8 removing and replacing each assembly then trying to start it after each coil and plug were changed just in case there was a bad coil but not showing a miss fire . Also I have looked for any vacuum line cracks etc. but I haven't seen any yet. I do have a cheap scan tool but it still usually does what I need but not this time I need HELP !!!
Thank in advance for and help or suggestions
I wouldn't be too disappointed considering there are so many things taking place that you can't see without a good scan tool.
#20
03-26-2024, 07:11 PM
Looking for any advise,
no code or anything !! The other day as I pulled out onto the highway and accelerated the truck started to die out. I'm not sure of all the details it did when it cut off since there were cars passing me and I was trying to pull over. Once off the road I tried to restart the truck and it only zooed over but smelt like it was flooded. I let it set for a minute then tried again to start it but this time with the accelerator on the floor and it tried to start but ran extremely rough , smelled like it was flooding and would not idle at all. I was luck that a guy I work with pulled in and we discussed what was happening he said it sounded as if the catalytic converter was stopped up. I need to note that the "Check engine" light was and still isn't lit up. I crawled under the truck and the right side converter was noticeably hotter than the left side. I stopped trying to crank it and got a trailer to haul it home. The next afternoon after work I tried to restart it and once again it smelled flooded and would only crank and run extremely rough when the pedal is to the floor. When I get it cranked I have to feather the pedal to try keeping it running.
NOW>> The things I have checked, tried and Googled ..... I took a sawzall and cut a small wedge in the front of the right hand catalytic converter (I can weld it back in) then tried to start the truck again which this didn't make any difference . Next I removed and cleaned the following, Idle air control , EGR & sensor, DPFE, MAF sensor. Once again No codes nor any difference in the idle or starting. Next I purchased a coil pack and spark plug then starting on #1 cylinder i went through all 8 removing and replacing each assembly then trying to start it after each coil and plug were changed just in case there was a bad coil but not showing a miss fire . Also I have looked for any vacuum line cracks etc. but I haven't seen any yet. I do have a cheap scan tool but it still usually does what I need but not this time I need HELP !!!
Thank in advance for and help or suggestions
no code or anything !! The other day as I pulled out onto the highway and accelerated the truck started to die out. I'm not sure of all the details it did when it cut off since there were cars passing me and I was trying to pull over. Once off the road I tried to restart the truck and it only zooed over but smelt like it was flooded. I let it set for a minute then tried again to start it but this time with the accelerator on the floor and it tried to start but ran extremely rough , smelled like it was flooding and would not idle at all. I was luck that a guy I work with pulled in and we discussed what was happening he said it sounded as if the catalytic converter was stopped up. I need to note that the "Check engine" light was and still isn't lit up. I crawled under the truck and the right side converter was noticeably hotter than the left side. I stopped trying to crank it and got a trailer to haul it home. The next afternoon after work I tried to restart it and once again it smelled flooded and would only crank and run extremely rough when the pedal is to the floor. When I get it cranked I have to feather the pedal to try keeping it running.
NOW>> The things I have checked, tried and Googled ..... I took a sawzall and cut a small wedge in the front of the right hand catalytic converter (I can weld it back in) then tried to start the truck again which this didn't make any difference . Next I removed and cleaned the following, Idle air control , EGR & sensor, DPFE, MAF sensor. Once again No codes nor any difference in the idle or starting. Next I purchased a coil pack and spark plug then starting on #1 cylinder i went through all 8 removing and replacing each assembly then trying to start it after each coil and plug were changed just in case there was a bad coil but not showing a miss fire . Also I have looked for any vacuum line cracks etc. but I haven't seen any yet. I do have a cheap scan tool but it still usually does what I need but not this time I need HELP !!!
Thank in advance for and help or suggestions
NO plugs should be wet. If we are sure they are getting power to ignite the fuel the next thing is to check the injectors for those cyls.
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