Ford F-150 The entry level full size truck from Ford, one of America's best selling for decades.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

1997 F150 starts with key in "on" position

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 06-25-2018, 02:28 AM
Blackfoot1954's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 15
Default 1997 F150 starts with key in "on" position

Hi there...my husband's 1997 F150 XL (no fancy stuff, e.g. electric locks, windows, etc.) 4x4 starts with the key in the "on" position by itself when the solenoid relay is connected and when it is not connected it starts by having to turn the key (the normal way). Last Sunday it started fine. He said he noticed when he had stopped to get gas that the truck started before he even tried to start it (he always lets all the dinging and buzzing stop before actually starting it so he can hear if anything is amiss)when he got ready to leave. So he tried it again several times to see if it would do it again and he said it started normal. He got to where he was going and when he got ready to leave the truck wouldn't start. He narrowed it down to the starter. He replaced the starter and it started fine 1/2 dozen times or so...about 5 miles down the road the starter started trying to engage so he stopped to see what was going on, he didn't find anything. Then when he got ready to start the truck he turned the key to the "on" position it started itself AGAIN! He disconnected the solenoid relay and told me to start it...it started without the relay being connected. After several attempts of connecting the relay and the truck starting itself he left it disconnected, it started the normal way and got home. He replaced the solenoid relay and the same thing happened, turned key to on position and it started itself. Also the cab light and the light under the hood would go out for 30 seconds and the 4x4 light in the dash came on for about 30 seconds or so when the truck started (without the relay being connected). While putting the starter on he accidentally touched something with the ratchet and it arced, he quickly remembered he forgot to disconnect the battery. He is wandering if that messed the starter up by forgetting to disconnect the battery or is he missing something (as far as what is causing the truck to start itself). Any ideas and/or suggestions is greatly appreciated.
 
  #2  
Old 06-25-2018, 03:48 AM
hanky's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 14,647
Default

Have him recheck the wires connected to the solenoid at the starter
There should be one large terminal and one small terminal.
The wire at the small terminal comes from the start position of the key switch located on the lower part of the steering column.

That wire path comes from the switch assy on the steering col to a clutch safety switch if manual trans, or to a manual lever position (neutral safety sw) on the trans if an automatic then on to the starter solenoid.
I would suspect one of the following,
1. small wire on the solenoid is making contact with the large terminal on the solenoid that is always "Hot" (comes directly from the battery + terminal)


2. Power is getting to the small terminal on the relay due to a faulty switch on the steering column


3. Recheck the wires on the trans switch assy for a problem ether with the switch or wiring there.
Power is getting to the starter solenoid somehow causing it to energize


4. If there is a problem with the linkage in the upper part of the steering column that mechanically connects from the key tumbler assy on down to the switch on the column. There is a small gear and toothed rack that relays movement from the key portion via a rod that goes down to the switch on the lower column. If that is the problem some places just replace the entire upper portion with a used replacement from a salvage yard. Don't know for sure if the internal parts would still be available, but this is last on the list so check everything listed before this . If you would, let us know what you find, thanks.


REMINDER, BEFORE DOING ANY WORK ON THE WIRING , REMOVE THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE !
 
  #3  
Old 07-01-2018, 01:55 AM
Blackfoot1954's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 15
Default

I apologize for being late in this response...Thank you Hanky for your suggestions...this week has been busy, not to mention rainy...he's working on it a little at a time and we will get back to you on what we find out. Back in the day (mid 70s to late 70s) he was a Ford mechanic...he said they ain't like they used to be. He 's good on figuring issues out, but when he gets to a rough spot he don't mind asking someone that knows more about it and says thank you for the suggestions.
 
  #4  
Old 07-01-2018, 06:13 AM
hanky's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 14,647
Default

Thanks for the update.
All he needs is a reminder because not much has changed except where the ign sw was moved to and how it activates.
 
  #5  
Old 07-03-2018, 10:49 PM
Blackfoot1954's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 15
Default

Hello all, I-I-I-m-m-m back! My husband removed the new starter and when he did he discovered that the "do not remove this lead..." wire was not even connected correctly...the lead was not crimped in, thus that wire came off completely. So he ran a 12g wire from the starter solenoid to the solenoid relay and it was a no start when trying to start the truck from the "switch" inside, but it does start when he crosses at the solenoid relay . I need to go back about 5 yrs ago now...he was having issues with a fuse blowing every time he tried to start the truck and as hard as he tried he could not find out was going on with it so he wired it with a push button switch which does (did) a very good job, no problems at all . He light tested that switch tonight and there seems to be no problem with it. Now he thinks the problem lies between the "switch" and the solenoid relay . Has anyone got any ideas on this? By the way which fuse would he be looking for to the ignition switch. Thank you for your ideas, thoughts, and suggestions. It is greatly appreciated.
 
  #6  
Old 07-04-2018, 06:40 AM
hanky's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 14,647
Default

The quickest and easiest way to find the fuse problem is to use the test lite and check them all. If a fuse has power coming in it must have power going out, so we check both sides of every fuse. It takes less than 1 minute. Some fuses will require the ign key to be turned on, here again if it has power on one leg it must have power on the other leg and I'm sure the boss knows that. Don't forget to check the fuses in the power distribution box under the hood.
Now,,,,,,,,,, if there was a problem earlier where it blew a fuse and he by-passed it installing a different switch , that short circuit is still there and may yield a blown fuse, I don't know.

When we jury rig a system problem we create another problem and that is if the vehicle is not on P or N (automatic) or clutch depressed (safety sw) the starter will energize when the vehicle is in gear ,AND THAT IS NOT GOOD!!!
Has this been a problem or was the rewire done to prevent accidental starting in gear?
 
  #7  
Old 07-04-2018, 10:06 AM
Blackfoot1954's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 15
Default

Good morning Hanky...thank you for your rapid response. HAPPY 4TH OF JULY!!!! The truck only starts in P or N, and never has started unless it was in P or N. So this is my question...would this eliminate the DTR sensor on the trans being bad or could it still be the problem or am I just a woman that need to leave the mechanicin' to the men folk, because all I know is it is also called the Neutral Safety Switch? Have a blessed and safe day!
 
  #8  
Old 07-04-2018, 10:39 AM
hanky's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 14,647
Default

Thank You for your best wishes and kind words.


I would think,,,,,, and this is how I get in trouble,
If the truck has been starting fine in P & N ,with the altered start sw.the N S Sw on the trans , most likely, should not be a problem, but we have all been fooled before.
Going back and rereading your original post , it does sound as if the switch on the trans could be the culprit. Now the object is to prove it. I do not at this time know what the exact colors of the wires are, but with the wire coming from the ign sw on the column that goes to the neutral safety sw and then to the relay has to be monitored with a test lite. That way you get a visual idea of what is going on.
I still would suggest rechecking the suggestions offered in the second post.
Of course with the addl wiring changes this could get a little difficult.
I'll bet you have ideas by this time and those of us that have stepped in it at one time or another have acquired an unusual ability to consider other's opinions.
 
  #9  
Old 07-07-2018, 12:00 PM
Blackfoot1954's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 15
Default

Howdy Y'all...Wednesday (July 4th) we took the day off and spent time with friends, Thursday we ran errands, Friday it rained...now we're thinking on the truck again. My husband ran a 12 gauge wire directly from the starter solenoid to the solenoid relay...the truck would not start, though it will start via crossing at the relay. He was wandering if other than starting the truck are there anymore purposes for the relay and just running the wire is not completing the starting circuit . Any help or thoughts are greatly appreciated.
 
  #10  
Old 07-08-2018, 12:39 PM
hanky's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 14,647
Default

Could you have your technician please tell us what wires are connected to where. I believe we can maybe get some positive progress today,thanks.
 


Quick Reply: 1997 F150 starts with key in "on" position



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:05 AM.