This is my first vehicle. The problem i'm having, on cold starts, it starts up like a dream..no problems at all. But, once i'm at running temperature, (I installed an aftermarket water temp and oil pressure gauge), my running temp is about 180, and my hot idle temp gets about 190, which is fine to me I think. But anyways, when im at running temp, and I shut the truck off for not even five minutes to say, run into the gas station, when I try to start her up, she doesnt wanna start. I have to pump the gas pedal repeatedly for quite some time while turning the key to get her going. Any ideas..? Just put a brand new fuel filter in, and still having the problem if that helps.

 

What is the fuel pressure reading at running temp. when it has a hard time starting? Should be around 45 psi.

 

Hmm..i'm not sure actually.. But, I'll be at the parts store in the morning, I can see if they'll hook up their fuel pressure gauge and get a reading for me.

 

turns over good but won,t fire ? it could be the coil getting too hot and breaking down ! it could be fuel pressure dropping too after you shut it off ! maybe it,s the fuel regulator bleeding off ! pull the vacuum hose off of it and check for gas ! there should be no gas in the vacuum hose !

 

Alright thank you, I'll start trying all suggestions. But yes, it turns over great actually, just wont fire sometimes on hot starts unless I pump the pedal for quite some time. It always starts up eventually though. I haven't had any real major problems with the old thing. I need to upload a few pictures. I'm pretty proud of myself. I've got a nice running and looking truck, that's from the same year I was born, and that I 100% payed for myself.

 

you shouldn't have to pump the the gas pedal to restart the engine that truck has and is fuel injected. you might want to put it back to factory gauges and see if that don't help it to start. and try this from now on turn the key to on and off 3 times before you start it that allows the fuel pump to prime the engine for you

 

I checked, i'm at about 33psi. But, the manual says for my make and model, the proper fuel pressure is 28 - 45...so i'm on the low side, but i'm in range..

 

The engine should start right up, even while hot, with 33psi of fuel pressure.

Next, check for spark at a spark plug when the engine has a hard time starting. You'll need a helper to crank the engine with the key.

Remove a spark plug, and ground it to a known good ground. I use the negative battery post.

I do this by taking a long piece of insulated wire, and strip about two inches of insulation off one end. Then a take a #4 worm gear clamp, (small one) and place the stripped end of the wire into the clamp loop, and then tighten the clamp, with the bare wire, around the metal case of the spark plug, (not the threads). Then ground the other end of the wire to battery -. This is important because we want a good spark at the plug. And we don't want no spark, or a weak spark just because it isn't grounded well.

Pic of worm gear clamp:

http://www.midlandindustrial.com/photos/830060.jpg

Now attach the plug's spark plug wire, (not the coil wire) and crank the engine with the key. You want a see a strong blue arc. Not a small little yellow spark, but a good Blue snap! You should even hear it arc.

No spark or weak spark? Get a brand new plug, and repeat.

Still no spark, or weak spark? Using the new plug do the same only this time attach the spark plug to the coil wire. Crank the engine with the key.

Still no spark, or weak spark? Take a small piece of vacuum hose, and attach it to the terminal end of the spark plug, and the other end to the male high tension output coil terminal. The vacuum hose inside diameter (i.d.) small enough to fit snug over the two terminals, and short enough in length so the two terminal touch.

Pic of your coil:

http://s7d4.scene7.com/is/image/Turn5/53605?$s7product$

Now crank the engine with the key, and look for spark.

Still no spark, or a wimpy yellow spark coming out of the coil. There are three wires with a plug in attached to the coil.

Here is a pic:

http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...0joful7RI7znQw

The one single wire, mark "2" in the pic, should have 12 volts with the key on at all times. Best to use a test light with a sharp point, and pierce the wire. Probe that wire with the key on. No current? There is your problem.

If it does have current probe the two wires marked "1" in the pic, and crank the engine with the key. The test light should flicker on and off rapidly. If it does flicker, and you don't have spark, the coil is bad.

If it does not flicker, then we need to move on to the PIP. But I will stop here to await your reply to this post.

 

Note: This test must be done with the test light's alligator clip attached to battery positive as this is the switching circuit to the coil that provides ground.

I will add to that given the symptoms of this particular problem, and the sprak plugs were old, I would install a new set of plugs, and give it a wirl. However, it is my hope that some may gain insights into how their vehicle works, and it also helps me to commit these things to long term memory.

Ah hell, I just like talking shop.

 

If you like talking shop, I believe you're in the right place. I can assure you , you are not alone. After a number of years this stuff gets in your blood and most of us try to use it before we forget it. It's getting difficult to say the least, to keep up with the latest procedures, but as with most techs we have to keep learning because once we fall behind it's murder trying to catch up. Have a good holiday !!