Apologies for not understanding your message. We have a variety of test equipment. Could you be more specific on what particular equipment you’re asking about? I make my living with my tools. I don’t get them from swap meets or bargain bins. No disrespect intended and I am sorry if I’ve offended anyone.

 

Don't fret, we've all been there and some of us are still cleaning the "stuff" off our shoes from where we stepped into "bad" places.lol

Your trim values as Hayapower requested,should help provide some guidance. I believe together we should be able to come up with some good answers, thanks.


Some of the questions I have are,
Do we have a scope available to look at spark lines and injector voltage ?
What does the #7 spark plug look like when we run it and stop to remove the plug? Is it wet like it is really getting fuel ? It wouldn't be the first time a plug contact fits snugly on the noid lite and not good on the coil or injector.
I am very curious about the original engine having a problem with cyl 6 and now the replacement engine having a problem with cyl #7.
Ford computers do lie sometimes.

 

A simple check may be to connect a coil/plug on a separate/stand alone coil and check for a healthy and continuous spark is present, then, an injector separate from the rail to look for a pulse/flow. Either audible or function witnessed..Neither of them should be a 'drop out' or an intermittent.. A noid may
not represent the draw or power distribution as the OE parts..Could be a pass on a noid, and fail actual ops.

 

Could this be the scenario?
Some problem with cyl 7which the computer sensed could damage the converter and hence disabled the injector?
We don't know if the noid test was done before this could have happened and we maybe assumed something that is throwing us a curve?
I like the idea of testing the injector and coil individually and physically.
With a capable scope we could see all this as it happens ,then we would know one way or another.
There are so many variables and all have to be verified one at a time.
Another question , were the heads new or installed from the old engine.

This is where some really good equip would help and we could see a lot of what is happening. (a scope)
Don't forget to look at the valve springs for cyl 7 .

 

Apologies for the delay. The misfire truck is going on the back burner for now. It’s my personal “spare” project vehicle and I have other work starting to pile up. I will keep everyone updated as I get time to work on it here and there.

Thank you everyone for your replies and feedback. It I’d genuinely appreciated

GB

 

First off, thank you for all of the replies. I found the culprit and honestly, I’m quite embarrassed. I pulled the intake to checking wires for a break but no luck. I also wanted to verify that my “helper” got the vacuum line from the brake booster to the intake connected. Everything checked out and I was back at square one. When I grabbed the intake to put it back on, I found a shop rag blocking cyl 7. A FLIPPING SHOP RAG. I can only guess that when I covered the intake after removing the throttle body, the shop rag fell down and I didn’t notice. I always cover up “holes” that will swallow up a little bolt or nut. I am paranoid of dropping something into the engine. Lesson learned the hard way. I’ll use tape next time. Then on top of everything, I cracked the stock mani when I was torquing it down. Cyl 1 by the coolant cross over. But I still started it and it purrs like new. Wait. It is new. Oh well. I’ll order an after market intake tomorrow. Thanks again everyone.

GB

 

Thanks for the update.
Glad it was somewhat simple..

 

This is the second time I have heard of the rag problem. The first time was when a mechanic rebuilt a diesel engine and it ran crappy on start up until it blew the wiper out the vertical exhaust..

Thanks for sharing the experience with us.