Hi everyone,

I’m considering upgrading my truck and came across discussions about emissions delete kits. I drive a 2008 Ford F250 and am curious about the performance and reliability improvements a delete kit can provide. Specifically, I’ve seen mentions of the 2008 Ford F250 6.4 delete kit, but I’m unsure which brands are safe and durable.

Does anyone here have experience with installing one? How does it affect power, fuel economy, and long-term engine health?

Any advice, recommendations, or cautionary tips would be greatly appreciated before I make a purchase.

 

thanks in advance for any help

 

For what it is worth,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

The manufacturer invests a lot of $$$ in research to hopefully get the best service from their equip. Along with that they offer a recommended maintenance schedule to again hopefully obtain the best return on a customer's purchase.
In the case with this engine, regular recommended maintenance might be the path to consider.
The driveline , for example, is designed to provide that "Best" return and when we increase power behind it we open the can for unforeseen problems.

Maybe someone that has successfully done what you are considering can shed some light on those changes.

 

Always take the OCC (oil catch can) approach than VTA (vent to atmosphere).
Do a walnut blasting first. Any cars with twin turbos (diesel doesn't matter) with direct injection should walnut blast the intake valves every 30 to 50k. What else could be done, if it has high oil consumption (burning oil), do a piston soak as well.
These trucks are quite simple. Imagine if it was on a BMW with N54 engine (twin turbos and direct injection), it can be two OCCs, one for boost (high side) the other for vacuum (low side). This engine the PCV is internal and it doesn't have an external hose, and the blow-by is routed internally within the valve cover. To PCV delete the low side, simply remove the PCV valve and install an external valve so the blow-by is routed to the "in" port of the OCC (low side), and the "out" port to the throttle body. The CCV has a hose with a flapper (check valve) integrated within the hose and that's connected to the inlet of the rear turbo. On the OCC (high side), simply replace the CCV hose and have it connected to the "in" port of the OCC (high side), then the "out" port to the rear turbo inlet. When CCV flapper opens (under boost), PCV valve is closed, when PCV valve opens (under vacuum), CCV flapper is closed, both can't be open or closed at the same time unless the valve is bad. Most people install just one OCC (low side), but to keep the turbos cleaned, install the high side as well.
On your truck just get the kit with OCC or DIY make one so that your OCC intercepts all blow-by coming from your CCV, don't mess with your DPF/EGR if at all possible, just CCV, or to minimize carbon buildup just DIY walnut blast your intake valves once a year, your truck will run better.